bilge painting

[cig28]

guys would interlux brightside or pettit easypoxy be good to use in the bilge. i want something easy to use and a good shine, also they have the color i need which is a light blue .the bilge is light blue in a 20 cigarette.

[Buoy]

A lot of guys here have recommended a rustoleum product, but I don't recall the details.
I used Interlux BilgeKote, and I'm not certain how happy I am with it.
I may re-do it before I put the motor back in.
I'm sure the guys with the details will chime in shortly.
Put up some pics of the 20!

[fund razor]

I am interested in bilge paint too. I used bilgekote before (diff boat) and didn't love it either.

[bootdaddy]

hear good things about awlgrip in bilge

[DollaBill]

Hottest painted bilge is ASG's 39 TSG. The inside is a "mirror" of the outside graphics. OFF DA HOOK. I'll get him to post a pic

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I have used imron with a brush many times.

If prepped right it holds up well and resists any mess.

[phragle]

Hottest painted bilge is ASG's 39 TSG. The inside is a "mirror" of the outside graphics. OFF DA HOOK. I'll get him to post a pic

My vote goes for the bilge in the looney tunes mti...

[Offshore Ginger]

I always use Imron for painting the bilge and mostly 555-U white that Skater uses , very durable , great shine ,and cleans up very nice with no stains especially petrolum products , i would also recommend Awlgrip which is very nice when used in the bilge area .

[Lakeside]

We usually use bilge coat in the basic cookie cutter stuff. But we have also used Easypoxy pettit with good success and some other products too with good success. There obviously is more than one good product to use in the bilge. It depends on what look you want & how far you want to go. Jamie

[Chris]

Imron is full of isocyanates and it's VERY bad for you. I wouldn't paint in a bilge without a hood.

Rustoleum Industrial 9100 with the immersion activator is very good. The white will get faint staining but the colors typically do not. It's thick enough to roll on easily without running or doing multiple coats and it's both inexpensive and readily available.

[cig28]

here you go 1975 small block

[HiZ]

What about prep for the surface to get the oil and debris, chemicals out for the new stuff to stick.
Thanks
Currently, grey - looking to go with a White

Any tips, thoughts on colors, etc
Thanks

[DKerns]

HiZ, I am sure the pro's could give you some better info, but......

When I did my boat, I had removed carpet and the adhesive it left behind. The transom and "bilge" area under the motor were painted grey. I used greased lightning and srubbed down the entire area. After doing that, I used Acetone to remove all of the adhesive. I then lightly sanded the entire area and wiped it down with Brushing Liquid, primed with Interlux Pre-Cote, lightly sanded again, wiped it down with Brushing Liquid, then painted with Bligekote. (2 coats)

[HiZ]

DK -

That LOOKS Exactly like what I want to do
Your Bilge is similar to what my color is now that Battleship Grey - YEAH
Anyway, looks great and a nice sheen to the finish

This Bilgecote you speak of.....and the color, how has it been with stains, chemicals, etc

I will have to check the local marine supplier

[DKerns]

I personally have not had any issues with staining. I try to keep everything neat and clean though. I don't let anything lay in the bilge that might stain it!

I purchased all of my stuff from Jamestown Distributors

www.jamestowndistributors.com

[FCMarine]

I have no personal experience with this product but I hear people talk about it all the time. Awlgrip is the name of it and most seem to like the ease of applying and the finish it gives.

[Tony]

I used Rustoleum DTM with the Imersion activator, its tough, real tough. Its not the most pristine finish, but most old Cigs have too much texture in the bilge to matter. Just for chits and giggles, I threw the stirring stick into my parts cleaning tank, and 3 days later pulled it out with no Ill effects to the paint on the stick.

[2112]

I used awlgrip with rollers. 3 coats with sanding in between. Even the high $ non-lint rollers left some lint. Second picture is before 3rd coat.

They also have non-slip texture you can add as well as gloss reducers.

Dries slow. Gnarly stuff but maybe not as bad as Imron. Use ventilated mask IMHO. They aren't that much $.
.

[Buoy]

I used awlgrip with rollers. 3 coats with sanding in between. Even the high $ non-lint rollers left some lint.

They also have non-slip texture you can add as well as gloss reducers.

Dries slow. Gnarly stuff but maybe not as bad as Imron. Use ventilated mask IMHO. They aren't that much $.
.

That looks great!

[Offshore Ginger]

I know this might sound bad but ..................... i have found that the product that can harm you the most ,work's the best or the more poison the better . 2112 I have used both Imron & Awlgrip and never sand inbetween coats and usally paint a bilge with a brush . 2112 My step's are as follow's -never use reducer just activator & excelerator -paint -let tack -paint -let tack-paint - untill fully covered & let dry. I have to say that most of the time it will be covered in three coat's and not to mention how nice your bilge l@@ks , hey