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    #21
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Also a reason prices will increase over just a condensor swap out is if your evaporator is not 410a rated this will cause a increase in the price and a decrease in your bank
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    #22
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    So can a reasonably mechanically inclined dude replace a fan motor himself? What else can I do to double check before I tear it all apart? Ballpark cost for a motor?

    I just scheduled a service call for between 5-7pm. Race is on to see if I can fix it before they get here.
    Don't tear it all apart use the multi meter to do the work check for power to the motor and power to the unit may not be the motor at all
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    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Sunsation96 View Post
    Dude I can own a Mystic if I work down by you guy's prices are crazy I am packing right now see you in a few day's
    I got a 10ton package unit for less than the 3ton he mentioned.
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    #24
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    Alright, if I'm not back on after a little while it's because I took a 220v shot. You'll read about it in the papers.
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    #25
    Based on what you said about the humming being louder at startup and then more quiet I would rule out contactor.
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Sunsation96 View Post
    Dude I can own a Mystic if I work down by you guy's prices are crazy I am packing right now see you in a few day's
    That is the FL dream that eats out of towners alive........


    Don't forget FL has insane insurance rates: cars, boats, houses whatever

    FL is full hacks that couldn't make it "up north" so they come down here to show us how it is done "up north"

    FL is full of people with burnt out dreams. Fantasy of moving to FL starts with a week's vacation in the winter. Move to FL, rent beach chairs on the ocean and make millions...........quickly turns into waiting tables for $500 a week and hating tourists!

    The crime, immigrants and high cost of living drives a lot of people back home!


    My sister is married to a Westpoint grad and lives in the midwest. She was born in FL, grew up in Boca Raton and so did her husband. They have lived all over the place including Germany courteous of the US Army. Neither would even consider moving back to FL.......even after he is out of the Army.

    They built a brand new house in the midwest on a 1/2 acre for 190K. Built by Americans driving American trucks and the cost of living is ridiculously low. I have visited and yes it was refreshing but not for me but I did like the concept.
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    #27
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    I'm alive.

    Fan spins freely.

    RE: checking the capacitor
    I'm guessing I need to turn the t-stat on so it's trying to work before I can verify voltage? And which terminals do I put the test leads on? I've got a solid 240V across the two red mains.

    I may be reaching here, but would a bad capacitor cause both the fan and compressor not to turn on? Is that what I'm looking at?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails AC 001.jpg   AC 002.jpg  
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    #28
    turn it on, spin fan and see if it stays running but when the t-stat shuts off/house is cool the fan may stop and won't restart until you hand spin it again........but atleast your house will be cooler!
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    #29
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    Hmmm....wonder what the breakeven would be on keeping a "laborer" out there to hand-start the fan every so often? Got the PM, many thanks.
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    #30
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunsation96 View Post
    Could be a few things that will cause the "humming"

    1. The rheems use a dual capicitor for both the fan and the compressor. The capicitor could be bad see if the top of it is out of shape. It will look like the capicitor exploded from the inside out. A good multi meter will check capicitors.

    2. The "humming" could also be caused by your contactor pulling in but having no main 220v power at the condensor check for 220 on L1 and L2.

    3. The condensor fan could be frozen causing the internal saftey to shut off on the compressor. See if the fan will turn with a screw driver with the power off.

    Call me if you have any question 586-557-2629 Jonathan

    READ ABOVE
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    #31
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Fan will not run with out the Run cap in working order a new cap will set you back $12.00 see if there is a oil film on the cap body
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    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    Hmmm....wonder what the breakeven would be on keeping a "laborer" out there to hand-start the fan every so often? Got the PM, many thanks.
    advertise job as: Low pay with free blow jobs!
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    #33
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    The cap is a Dual cap for both the compressor and the motor as stated above. You also need a contactor real bad just do both and enjoy the summer
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Sunsation96 View Post
    Fan will not run with out the Run cap in working order a new cap will set you back $12.00 see if there is a oil film on the cap body
    but if it is the "start" cap the fan will run......
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    #35
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    Sun96 bare with me, no electrician here. Don't know which L1 and L2 you reference. The capacitor doesn't look like it has an exploded top? Is the contactor the piece with all the wires? How can you tell it's needed?

    Update though, got the fan started with the screwdriver trick. Still a constant hum with an intermittent hum every 60 secs? Something is trying to start.
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    #36
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    Sun96 bare with me, no electrician here. Don't know which L1 and L2 you reference. The capacitor doesn't look like it has an exploded top? Is the contactor the piece with all the wires? How can you tell it's needed?

    Update though, got the fan started with the screwdriver trick. Still a constant hum with an intermittent hum every 60 secs? Something is trying to start.
    Not a problem Just trying to help a fellow SOS brother. Now on your contactor that is the original one and for $15 I would replace it the contacts are hit and it is simple to change.
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    #37
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sledge View Post
    Sun96 bare with me, no electrician here. Don't know which L1 and L2 you reference. The capacitor doesn't look like it has an exploded top? Is the contactor the piece with all the wires? How can you tell it's needed?

    Update though, got the fan started with the screwdriver trick. Still a constant hum with an intermittent hum every 60 secs? Something is trying to start.
    You need to go to a local supply house and get a cap and contactor and go from there. I have contacts in Flodia at supply houses if you tell me where you live near. Let me know I can make a phone call
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    #38
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    From the bottom of your unit looking up on the sides check to see how the coil looks from the inside it appears to be dirty this plays hell on electrical of your ac. That is easy to clean with a garden hose. The Rheems are the hardest to clean BTW but the nice thing is that the coil is protected real nice.
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    #39
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    Jonathan, look for an incoming call from 305-
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    #40
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    To help you
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