So did you find your new boat yet?
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04-02-2018 08:08 AMGetting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-02-2018 08:51 PMI was actually asking Adam.
I didn't know you were even considering a new boat.......
Thinking a bit bigger?Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-03-2018 05:51 AM
I thought you meant Phragle too... because he said something about 4footitis.
I actually thought about selling mine. She will never be able to go on an offshore boat again with her back and neck. And it's running perfectly.
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04-03-2018 08:53 AM
Now that I think about it, I should keep it.
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04-03-2018 10:23 AM
Adam if your 500hp range Go Bravo, If your 800 hp go #6.
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04-03-2018 11:50 PMWhat about 3's, 3a's, 4's, and 5's?
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-09-2018 10:39 AM
I have a TRS boat, I also collect spare drives. I have all the tools to work on them. Problem is fewer and fewer parts are available. Konrad offers a replacement drive.
An old TRS freshwater boat can be a good find. Saltwater that old is trouble.
You can spend once for a #6 boat. Or you can keep spending on an obsolete drive. In the end most obsolete drive boats get converted.
Back to size of boat and power you seek. 500 is in a 35 you can possibly be happy with TRS . A 38 with 800. Everything but a 6 is a compromise.
I dispute Ratickles claim that TRS is good to 750. I say 500 is its limit. I personally know a 35 Cafe with TRS and 675hp can twist propshafts at will.
I find no pleasure in a power and drive combo you have to nurse around. Any boat you cannot run WOT with out exploding drives is not worth having.
Budget should limit the size of your boat choice. The bigger the boat the more power you need to have fun.
My guess is 70mph costs X to care for
a 80mph costs 2X to care for
a 90 mph boat 4X to care for and so on.
In round numbers of course and IMO
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04-09-2018 01:31 PM
We are currently considering a #6 boat that needs some work. Can 900hp be reliable as an every day boat? Also, has a blown drive. Dry sump 6 that broke the pump driveshaft and toasted all the gears and bearings. Parts are EXPENSIVE for the #6! Is this a regular occurence?
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04-09-2018 01:52 PM
Buy a boat that is operational. A non running boat is asking for trouble. Its hard enough to have good luck from a running boat.
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04-10-2018 08:56 AMWhen it comes to the mechanical capabilities of boats, go with what Jim says, not what I say....
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-10-2018 08:57 AMAs for the 6, I've never heard of that before. And Skater's run the heck out of 6's. Jim??
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-10-2018 09:03 AMI guess my last opinion on the non-running boat would be a bit different than Jim's. If:
1. The non-running boat is priced to where a good mechanic can be paid to repair it and you are still at, or below, actual resale value.
2. All of the things not in working order check out okay by a reputable surveyor.
And detune the 900HP. Depending on how the HP is achieved, (boost, compression, rpm, etc.), you are looking at fuel issues almost everywhere on the water and rebuilds way too often for most family runners.Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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04-10-2018 06:31 PM
Buying a non running boat is like playing rolette. Are you feeling lucky?
Why didn't owner fix it? Cause his wrench said shake it loose? Its worth more running why not fix it to sell it running?
Maybe it's not running cause Its been patched back together so many times owner gave up? Find you bought a can of worms.
When did it last run properly? Last week , Last year, last owner, never since last rebuild, anybody really know?
The only exception in my mind to buy a non running boat is if you plan to buy new engine/ drive packages.