I have a new toy.......

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I have to over rule you guys. Most trim pumps prefer 10w 30 or 10w 40. Atf will work. 30 weight is wrong. 30 weight will make it very difficult to bleed.

 

[old377guy]

I have to over rule you guys. Most trim pumps prefer 10w 30 or 10w 40. Atf will work. 30 weight is wrong. 30 weight will make it very difficult to bleed.

picky, picky, picky, picky..........

 

[fund razor]

Oh crap. I need to go drain my drive pumps before they stop going uppy and downy real good. :cuss:

 

[phragle]

Mounting box is made for the new controls, paint is drying on the new controls, finished the bolster frames and fitted/leveled new bolsters, I have a trim pump that works. Time for a beer and some upholstery. waiting on new tab actuator and new toggles to show up.

 

[old377guy]

my, my, what a busy lad you are

 

[fund razor]

Mounting box is made for the new controls, paint is drying on the new controls, finished the bolster frames and fitted/leveled new bolsters, I have a trim pump that works. Time for a beer and some upholstery. waiting on new tab actuator and new toggles to show up.

You have to drink beer the whole time or nothing will line up right when you are done. :blush5:

 

[phragle]

control box is upholstered and mounted, old controls out. Seats are foamed, covers go on in the morning.

 

[phragle]

I know have working trim and the controls are mounted and hooked up. Blower, nav lights and courtesy lights are now working. Had one of those days.... grabbed my handy 12 volt test light and got under the dash to work on the trim wiring (trim was in the handle of the funky old quicksilver 3000 throttle/shifter) Hmmmm no power... go to check the system, I know there is power to the ignition and I found the ground block. clip to the ground block and touched the tester the the ignition switch, nothing. So I figure I have found why most of the electrics don't work. Spend some time tracing things, still nothing. Run a jumper ground wire from the battery to the dash, still nothing. Hook the test light to the battery, surprise! It only took two hours to figure out the test light was dead. Left the bolster skins out in the sun to get as soft as possible before I put them on the new bolsters. Then I hear rain beating on the garage roof... so much for skinning the bolsters today.

 

[fund razor]

April 6, 2013

I shouldnt have too many unsolved mysteries....

May 30, 2013

I know have working trim and the controls are mounted and hooked up. Blower, nav lights and courtesy lights are now working. Had one of those days.... grabbed my handy 12 volt test light and got under the dash to work on the trim wiring (trim was in the handle of the funky old quicksilver 3000 throttle/shifter) Hmmmm no power... go to check the system, I know there is power to the ignition and I found the ground block. clip to the ground block and touched the tester the the ignition switch, nothing. So I figure I have found why most of the electrics don't work. Spend some time tracing things, still nothing. Run a jumper ground wire from the battery to the dash, still nothing. Hook the test light to the battery, surprise! It only took two hours to figure out the test light was dead. Left the bolster skins out in the sun to get as soft as possible before I put them on the new bolsters. Then I hear rain beating on the garage roof... so much for skinning the bolsters today.

I know what you are going through.







Just worse.

 

[phragle]

but it is getting closer!!!

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The power source for the quicksilver control is on the trim pump. The inline fuse holder on the solenoid supplies power to the trim switch harness. You can also supply the switch from a few places under the dash.

 

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I guess its too late to suggest you should always verify the test light works before testing with it. :reddevil:

 

[phragle]

The power source for the quicksilver control is on the trim pump. The inline fuse holder on the solenoid supplies power to the trim switch harness. You can also supply the switch from a few places under the dash.

I looked up the schematics and nothing is the color its supposed to be, but I did splice in blue wire for up and green for down at least to the switch and it even goes click whirrrrr when I push it, hell I even have it wired so the little light with the drive picture lights up when I trim up OR down.... we are getting fancy now!!!!

 

[phragle]

The real fun is going to be wiring the rockers for the lenco's so the polarity reverses and the little light comes on

 

[Buoy]

Congrats Rob.
You're making some serious progress in a short time.

 

[Ratickle]

Oh yeah, the little light is a biggee....

 

[phragle]

Working tonight so no workin on the boat earlier today. My actuator showed up today though. Work sat night too, so sunday will be a big day of boat work. Hope to get the tabs finished, the drive back on, the new stern light mounted and tweak on the electrics a bit more.

 

[phragle]

Ordered the wiring for the Myco today and some toggle switch boots too.

 

[Ratickle]

So you're geting close. Tawas?

 

[phragle]

I have complete working tabs, got the new actuator and replaced the wiring/switches. I`ll be damned they both worked and both went in the right direction on the first try, even the lights on the switches light up when you push them!