??? for FORD diesel service tech

[MarylandMark]

Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?

[fund razor]

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer

Yeah. I had to find a private diesel tech too. I'd be tempted to throw two batteries at it and see what happens. (Alternator being verified and all)

[Knot 4 Me]

Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?

Have your batteries load tested separately. Most autoparts stores will do this for free. I have a local Interstate Battery place that I use. Don't just throw money/parts at it.

[fixxxer22]

Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?

I had the same issues on mine. It was just one bad battery. Depending on how cold it was the glow plugs would deplete the available voltage and amperage of the only working battery then you would go to crank and then not enough juice to make enough rpm to make high pressure oil, no tenought voltage for PCM and FICM sync, and not enough amperage to get the glow plugs hot enough. We have a deka batteries dealer local here and they are 880 cca replacements. I have them in my truck and have noticed a great difference in cranking speed both hot and cold starts.

I am glad that your technician is good enough to see that the system is charging. There is a possibility of a loose connection but i doubt it. The cahrging system on a 6.0 is stand alone with an internal voltage regulator. But one bad battery with a shedded cell can give erratic readings to the Alternator causing it not to produce what you are looking for. The way to test a for system is get the vehicle at full operating temp and then use a voltmeter. make sure it has been at least 5 minutes from when you started it (to make sure there is no glow plug command). Turn the headlights on and the blower on high and bring the engine rpm to 1000 and you should have no less than 13v at the meter.

I bet you got a bum battery just messin with you.

[fixxxer22]

QUOTE=Knot 4 Me;441824]Have your batteries load tested separately. Most autoparts stores will do this for free. I have a local Interstate Battery place that I use. Don't just throw money/parts at it.[/QUOTE]


Battery stores have way better testing equipment and they need to be tested one at a time. just disconnect one positive lead.

[ZBODaytona]

My 05 just came back from the shop. New heads with studs this time, and they put a new egr on. Just wish they would have deleted it for me instead. So not looking forward to removing stuff to do the delete. I am also running a banks inter cooler and new intake elbow as well, plus a sct programmer. Am I going to get yelled at for that?

I notice my batteries go about every three years. Replaced once in this truck and twice in my old 01 and once in my wifes dodge. Seems to always be about the three year mark, and basically just comes on.. Slow to start/ then no start. Usually replace before i get to the no start. I am lucky my buddy is a good diesel tech, and I do have a good dealership to go to if needed.

[MarylandMark]

Great advice once again from SOS!!!!!

Went to Advance Auto. They tested each battery individually and came up with one battery being bad and the other going bad. The District Manage and Store Manager were both there. The tech was about to test the whole system as one until they came out, then they told the tech to unhook one for a valid test.

Anyway, came up with 600CCA and 650CCA, they are rated for 750CCA each.

Put meter on, took readings, then started truck with all accessories off, then rev up RPM, then let off RPM, then turn on high beams and fan high, then rev up again, then shut every thing down.

Takes battery voltage, drain when every thing off, amps, cranking amps, recharge rate, starter test, ripples in voltage and some other info- all with easy to read charts. Not sure if this pic will zoom but lot of info on there.

Local guy- $0 charge, refused the $20 I offered. Great guy and family, just does't do much diesel work but at least didn't shoot in the dark and charge me which is why I go to them. Just never had to with my diesel so didn't know they weren't very familiar with them.
Ford- tech never called me back and service lady was kind of a B when I called so kind of scrapped them. I didn't buy my truck from them for the same reason so kind of avoid them any way.
Advance Auto- $224 for 2 850CCA series 65 batteries installed in 20 minutes

Thanks SOS!!!!

[fixxxer22]

Glad you found your problem cause!

[Madpoodle]

If a fault is occouring at that time it will illuminate the warning lamp for that system. The wrench lamp is for the transmission and the throttle pedal assy. If you did not notice any difference in the shifting of the truck and your fluid and level is good i would assume you may have had a position sender get confused in the accelerator pedal. Can you have your continious codes pulled? we can get a little farther from there. I know an autozone will do it for free.

I'll see if they can pull those for me. My scanner reads stored coeds only, none show.

Thanks for the help

[fixxxer22]

I'll see if they can pull those for me. My scanner reads stored coeds only, none show.

Thanks for the help

Are you using your programmer for a scanner or an actual scanner? And if a scanner what brand?

[Madpoodle]

Basic scanner, Scan Gauge..

http://www.scangauge.com/

Hope my wife doesn't find out about those stored coeds

[fixxxer22]

I think that is a basic global OBDII generic scanner. It may not have the ability to pull codes from the TCM which contains stored codes for the wrench lamp. But if the fault occoured only once and the veicle has been through 3 complete drive cycles it will erase the code. Then you are chasing a ghost.

Drive cycle - start as a cold vehicle and drive until full operating temp and speeds that simulate around town driving and breif highway speeds (like over 55mph)

[Madpoodle]

oops, code be gone then, that was Monday night on the way back from the boatshow: leadfoot wanted to get home and collapse, with boat in tow and three booths worth of crap in it. Same load Tues AM, no wrench, none since.. Thanks for the info, if it does it again I'll head straight for a code reader.

[fixxxer22]

oops, code be gone then, that was Monday night on the way back from the boatshow: leadfoot wanted to get home and collapse, with boat in tow and three booths worth of crap in it. Same load Tues AM, no wrench, none since.. Thanks for the info, if it does it again I'll head straight for a code reader.

Lets try and catch that fault the next time it happens (hopefully never again) But if it does we can go over some at home pinpoint testing and i can post anything you need out of a ford shop manual.

[Madpoodle]

Thanks, I have the scanner in the truck, and worst case if it won't read it I'll leave it running until I get to a place that can

[Dude! Sweet!]

Hey Fixxer, PM sent. Did it come through? Thanks.

[fixxxer22]

Hey Fixxer, PM sent. Did it come through? Thanks.

I dont think so. I did have a bunch i may have accidentaly deleted it. Can you re-send?

[Dude! Sweet!]

I dont think so. I did have a bunch i may have accidentaly deleted it. Can you re-send?

Thanks man. I'll resend.