The most important area for free movement of the cables is the first foot or two out of the control. You may need to allow the cables more free space. Second, if the preload on the throttle cable on the engine is is too much it will tighten the control unit. Adjust the throttle on the engine end by gently pushing to the end of the lash adjust barrel and attach. Zero pre load is what you want there. Adjust shift so nuetral is in the center.
If the cables have free space at control and there are no sharp bends like 12" radius or less and they remain tight replace the cables. Old cables are spiral wound and the sleave is plastic. It may have worn a groove at some bend. Most new cables are plastic coated wire and are smoother yet.
BTW never drain and leave gearcase with out lube. especially if it had water in it. Always replace to eliminate air so no corrosion can occur.
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03-14-2012 10:51 AM
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03-15-2012 09:00 AM
I adjusted the shift cable a little different than it was since it seemed like it would take every bit of travel to engage FWD. I will look again to see if there is any preload on either. I do plan on re-routing the cables. Already routed different but don't even have them fastened yet. I drained the lower unit in case there was any water leaked into it. Didn't want the freeze...Never thought about the trouble of leaving it empty over the winter. I did not see any moisture in the old lube, so did not suspect any leaky. I will leave both plugs out for a little while before I refil and hope any and all moisture makes it way out before the new lube heads in there. THANKS or that tip too. As much as I have always thunk about air in fuel tanks and crankcases I do not know why I didn't think along the same lines for a lower unit, THANKS!!!