Sorry to cause alarm on the flame arrestors. Tough to see the screen in the pic.
I would be surprised if they did come with those dry exhausts. The cruiser manufacturers who made go fast style boats (wellcraft/sea ray/chris craft) usually used wet exhausts with log style/ center riser manifolds.
Here is an 88:
Thread: Rusted Exhaust Pipe
Results 21 to 40 of 104
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01-06-2014 07:27 PM
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01-06-2014 07:28 PM
It probably had heavy rubber sections connecting steel pieces.
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01-06-2014 10:08 PMDid you find one with twins?
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-06-2014 10:13 PM
Just the one in post 21
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01-06-2014 10:16 PMI did, but haven't found real good pictures yet.
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989...s#.UstiuMKA3IU
It looks like the factory setup was modified to allow for the header application.Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-06-2014 10:21 PM
So then the question becomes, why the dry headers?
Wouldn't be surprised if they did a cam job and were trying to "reversion proof" it.
Or they thought it looked cool, although I think that the black steel sections of pipe with black rubber connectors looks better.
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01-06-2014 10:23 PM
(Forgive us poolman, it's a blizzard up here and we don't have much to do.)
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01-06-2014 10:25 PMSorry, duh.... It looks like all the 32's came with twins, but there were a couple different exhaust routings to get to the single large thru-hull for each engine. It looks like they all injected water at the top of the cast iron manifold exit into the entire exhaust though.
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-06-2014 10:43 PM
manifold/hose/elbow/hose/pipe/hose/elbow/hose/through hull pipe.
Just add clamps. T as needed.
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01-07-2014 10:19 PMTalked with Jim, the original exhaust on a Pachanga was junk. The exhaust actually was routed forward into a secondary manifold and then routed 180 degrees back out the two Euro exhaust ports. If you raised the bow of the boat too high the residual water ran back into the engines.
So, we need to think a bit more and figure out how to get water into that elbow to cool the balance of the system.Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-08-2014 11:56 PMYou may have to contact someone like these guys. http://www.mesamarine.com/
http://www.mesamarine.com/Wetells.htmlGetting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-09-2014 12:20 PM
Look like some handy guys there at that site.
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01-10-2014 09:58 AMWell, somehow the boat need to have water injected into the elbow to cool the balance of the exhaust system. But, it has to be close to the end of the elbow, not at the beginning. So, to keep the elbow itself from getting too hot it needs to be a jacketed unit. The water would go out the header, into the elboe, exit the elbow into the exhaust and the exhaust would be wet the rest of the way. Then any stainless 4" piece would work for the tee's and hoses could be used to connect the stainless pieces.
I think I'm going to send this link to John Teague and see if he can figure out anything from his experience with their manufacturers on the left coast.Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-10-2014 12:25 PM
Too bad nobody knows why they "dried out" the exhaust and if it was related to re-camming.
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01-10-2014 12:40 PM
The way this exhaust is set up is definitely NOT OEM and NOT safe to have in a closed engine hatch environment. With no heat shielding I am shocked there are not charred or melted things from the infared head off those elbows. Unless the entire system was heavily wrapped before these pics were taken, this is an imminent fire risk. Even if they are wrapped, the heat introduced into the ambient engine compartment air will be terrible for horsepower. Our blower motors on the dyno glow dry headers orange all the way through the collectors.
It looks like some car guys put on stellings jacketed headers when doing some engine work and then made a Y pipe setup to adapt the headers to the original exhaust. The way is needs to be done is at least the first elbow, plus six inches needs to be jacketed, then you can dump the water into the exhaust gasses from the top half of the jacket. if you dump the water right at the header collector, then there will be major reversion issues, even to the point of hydraulic-ing. The whole system would need to be custom built one off.
I have to ask another question: after the Y pipe tail contraption, where does the exhaust actually exit the boat. Is it a single through transom down low, or does it exit at the stock through gimbal and hub setup? If it is not a straight through transom exit, you might as well put stock manifolds on as the system will just bottleneck in the gimbal.
JT"We Have Everything But The Water!"
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01-10-2014 04:35 PMThanks John,
If you look at this picture, the exhaust comes out the two Euro style ports in the back transom corners.
Attachment 77549
Do you have any suppliers who sell, or make, the jacketed elbows he would need? If he gets 4 of those, anyone can manufacturer the tees required out of 4" stainless he would need to finish I think.Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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01-14-2014 07:21 PM
You Guys are Awesome! I actually thought that ya'll had abandoned me and my problem, but today I saw the page button on the bottom right of the screen.(Duuuuu) No need to answer the PM Ratickle. (I'm sure you thought I had lost my mind.) Sounds like you guys are getting close. Appreciate it much!