OB control cable questions...75 hp Merc 2 stroke

[rschap1]

I thought I was looking to replace the throttle cable on my pontoon's 2003 75 horse Merc 2 stroke outboard. It took a lot of effort to shift and move the throttle. WAY too much effort. It ran and shifted fine, just hard to push the control lever. Both in neutral and in both gears. Figured that the throttle cable was bound up and/or dragging. I unhooked the ends of each cable from the motor. Still hard to push the lever. Pulled the control off the dash/console. Unhooked those ends and shifter movement was far easier, like what I would have expected. Again, still thinking it was the cables causing tough throttle and shifting. Cut a few zip ties and pulled the cables off. Once off, the cables are as free moving and easy to manipulate as I could ask for for. Fingertips is all it takes to slide either cable. The new cables aren't real expensive (only like $25 each I see online-20 foot Telex CC17920) but once I saw how free these were, I did not think there would be any difference. Shot some WD40 into the sheaves and blasted it through with compressed air. Just for good measure since I went through all the work of taking them off the boat. The throttle linkage/assembly on the motor takes next to nothing to move. One pinky finger tip moves it easily. The shifter mechanism takes some but not terrible. I can slide the "lever" on the motor fore and aft by hand. Keep in mind the motor is not running. Not sure how much effort the shifter should take while motor is off. A couple times I spun the prop just and it just seemed to make things fall into place a little easier.

Also-hopefully a side note is all-no lube in the lower unit currently. Drained it before winter just in case it had any wayer mixed in it and have yet to refil. I have about 3/4 of a quart of Quick Silver lube, but I have been thinking I should probably get Premium stuff and do not know what the capacity is, could use some info there too

But ... once I saw how free the cables were I put them back in. Everything hooked back up and worse then ever I do not see what I would consider sharp or tight bends at all and am wondering why?? Anyone seen similar before?? If the shift cable is out of adjustment will it make this?? My son was playing with the threaded mounts and may not have those perfect. I am trying to Google procedures for adjusting each, but appreciate any tips, tricks, links that might make this easier
THANKS ahead of time.

[old377guy]

sounds like a arm connecting bolt has backed out a bit or maybe is missing. I noticed on my controls that if everything is not perfect, then some part of the mechanism will bind up against another part. Of course we have entirely different shift controls (mine were the old style Morse single lever type) but the innards work on the same principle. Good luck.

[rschap1]

Everything inside the shifter/throttle/control seemed OK.
I pulled it out of the console and took a side cover off so I could un-hook the cables.
With the cables unhooked, it took VERY minimal effort to shift the control itself.

?? ?? ??
Thanks

[old377guy]

Could the cable stays be pinching the cable jacket?

[rschap1]

I will take a look at that possibility, THANKS !!!

[Ratickle]

Any Luck Yet?

[rschap1]

Took the cables and controls off the boat last night.
Stood right at the motor with control and cables only made one 20 foot big loop. No tight bend.
Lubed all the parts in the control, throttle, and gear shift slide.
Shifting seemed a little rough. I spun prop by hand and stuff seemed to drop in place a lil' better.
Still more effort than I expected, but...I rerouted the cables differently than what they were. Less turns and bends.
Re-assembled but have yet to get control onto the dash.
Not perfect, but better than it was.
Once I get lower unit full of lube, and actually run it, I will decide if I replace cables.
Throttle itself (in neutral) was not too stiff, but thinking the shift is what actually needing the effort.
Looks like right around $50 for set of both cables, Teleflex. And since I have them in and out a couple times now should only take me a half hour or so if I find that I need them.
Boat sat for some time before I got it, hoping it may loosen up with a little use...

THANKS for the help!!!

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The most important area for free movement of the cables is the first foot or two out of the control. You may need to allow the cables more free space. Second, if the preload on the throttle cable on the engine is is too much it will tighten the control unit. Adjust the throttle on the engine end by gently pushing to the end of the lash adjust barrel and attach. Zero pre load is what you want there. Adjust shift so nuetral is in the center.
If the cables have free space at control and there are no sharp bends like 12" radius or less and they remain tight replace the cables. Old cables are spiral wound and the sleave is plastic. It may have worn a groove at some bend. Most new cables are plastic coated wire and are smoother yet.


BTW never drain and leave gearcase with out lube. especially if it had water in it. Always replace to eliminate air so no corrosion can occur.

[Ratickle]

Thanks Jim, I was wondering and hate it when I don't have a clue......

[rschap1]

The most important area for free movement of the cables is the first foot or two out of the control. You may need to allow the cables more free space. Second, if the preload on the throttle cable on the engine is is too much it will tighten the control unit. Adjust the throttle on the engine end by gently pushing to the end of the lash adjust barrel and attach. Zero pre load is what you want there. Adjust shift so nuetral is in the center.
If the cables have free space at control and there are no sharp bends like 12" radius or less and they remain tight replace the cables. Old cables are spiral wound and the sleave is plastic. It may have worn a groove at some bend. Most new cables are plastic coated wire and are smoother yet.


BTW never drain and leave gearcase with out lube. especially if it had water in it. Always replace to eliminate air so no corrosion can occur.

I adjusted the shift cable a little different than it was since it seemed like it would take every bit of travel to engage FWD. I will look again to see if there is any preload on either. I do plan on re-routing the cables. Already routed different but don't even have them fastened yet. I drained the lower unit in case there was any water leaked into it. Didn't want the freeze...Never thought about the trouble of leaving it empty over the winter. I did not see any moisture in the old lube, so did not suspect any leaky. I will leave both plugs out for a little while before I refil and hope any and all moisture makes it way out before the new lube heads in there. THANKS or that tip too. As much as I have always thunk about air in fuel tanks and crankcases I do not know why I didn't think along the same lines for a lower unit, THANKS!!!