Thread: Fountain
Results 201 to 218 of 218
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01-06-2011 10:29 AM
I bet she'd be hot to !!!!!!
The big 80's (mall hair do ) and all !!!!!
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01-06-2011 09:16 PM
Question; those blowers do they wine like a blower should? In all my automotive applications my blowers have always whined, my truck whines like bitch but on my boat I never hear it
Always wondered why
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01-06-2011 10:33 PM
Some blowers make more noise than others. My 177 weiands made some serious noise. Crack the hatches and it gets REAL loud. Just ask ryan how he enjoyed sitting in the back seat coming back from michigan city in october. I cracked the hatches about 2" and with them open, you can barely hear the exhaust noise.
The blowers with the serpentine style grooves are very quiet until you start spinning them fast. The big cog tooth blowers are noisy even at idle.
On your blower, how much boost are you running? If its a low boost setup with a large driven pulley, they dont make too much noise.
heres running with the hatches closed and the little 177 blowers.
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...ad.php?t=18714
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01-06-2011 10:57 PM
My 10-71 littlefield on my American Offshore was ridiculously loud. Sounded cool, but almost got annoying after a while.
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01-07-2011 09:22 AM
Blower whine rules!!!!!!!!
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01-08-2011 03:58 PM
Joe, everything looks great. You might wanna look into running 2 smaller 4 bbls on top the blowers. There's a real bad problem with the single carb application, as it tends to let a couple cylinders run way too lean. Just something you might want to look into unless you're gonna run them on a dyno and be able to check cyl temps.
Also, a friend of mine that's local takes all the rusty corroded carb hardware and tumbles it. Then he replates it and makes it all look new again. He does my stuff every few years for me. This is what he does for a living along with building custom carbs for specific applications, and ships all over the country.
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01-08-2011 05:38 PM
Thanks Frank, not as great as yours though!
I hear ya on the carb thing. Found out that mounting the single dominator sideways on this blower helps that distribution issue. Mounting it inline, the throttle blades point towards the center bottom of carb, sending fuel from the boosters right in the center. Someone tried the sideways mounting setup and lowered the outer cylinder temps by a couple hundred degrees on the dyno.
I also plan to run water dumps from the rear of the intake water jackets, supposedly helps keep the back cylinders cool and from steam pockets forming. I think the issue with the single carb setup is in order to get the farther cylinders jetted safe, the inner ones end up being way to fat. I had the 177 weiands with a single 4150 carb, everything ran great, but i hear the 250's are a little worse with the distribution. For some reason, the carb sits further forward on the 250 vs the 177. Couldnt figure out why when i first installed the motors in the boat, that the hatch insert that was installed to clear the blowers air cleaner, didnt line up right with the 177. Come to find out the boat had the B&M 250's back in the day.
Either way, plan to get them on a dyno for tuning. Worse case i end up having to run the dual carb setup, which if i do intercoolers i would definitly want the dual carbs.
I like the way your steering cooler is mounted. Good idea. I may have to do that with the plate running between the front and rear plates as a mounting point for the cooler..
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01-08-2011 05:46 PM
Btw, with that setup frank, did you run a electric fuel pump to the mechanical pump, or just that mechanical holley? I notice most 130GPH mech pumps require a regulator, and the 110 and 120GPH holleys do not. I did find a GM performance Marine mechanical 130GPH pump that does not require a regulator. I ran just the 110GPH pumps with my old setup, worked ok. I do have 5/8 lines coming from the tank, to the fram fuel filter, then to the pump. Then it was 8an to the carb.
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01-08-2011 06:49 PM
Joe, I run a Holley street mechanical pump all the time. I also have a Holley 110 electric pump plumbed in after the mechanical. The electric pump has a regulator plumbed in right after the pump, and it's set @ 8.5lbs. I only flip on the electric pumps right before I put the boat on plane, and shut them off when I come off plane. The mechanical will handle the engine as long as I don't push em over 3000-3500. After that, the pressure drops to around 3-4 lbs, and the engine will start to pop. Not good.
I don't have any good pics of the bulk head where I have everything mounted. I ran a an #8 out of the tanks, to the fuel separator. Then right after that a T. Going down is a an #8 line going to the inlet of the mechanical pump. Going straight out is the electric pump with the regulator mounted on the outlet side of the pump. That line goes to the inlet of the fuel manifold that is mounted to the outlet of the mechanical pump.
The fuel manifold I use has a an #8 on the bottom, and 2 an #6's on top. One line goes to each carb. If you use this setup, you absolutely HAVE TO use a #8 inline check valve, that you need to put between the line from the elec pump, and the manifold. Otherwise the pressure from the mech pump will back wash the fuel right through the line from the electric. In other words, with out the electrics on, you'll have hardly no fuel pressure, cause the fuel will go back through the other pump.
Idleing around, and in the harbors I never use the electric pumps, only when I get ready to take off do I flip them on. The mechanical pumps give me about 6.5 lbs @ idle. This way I don't have all that extra pressure from the electrics on the needle and seats when I'm idleing.
Got any questions about it, just give me a shout.
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- Join Date
- May 2010
- Posts
- 43
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05-23-2011 12:38 PM
Or for those that don't have a clue on how to tune anything. LMAO We got the Big Stuff 3 on one of our procharged race cars. When the engine was on the dyno at Wesco's shop, Dave and Mike Moran fine tuned it and now all you have to do is plug in the laptop and change the programs to what you want. Kinda like playing on a computer. LMAO