On the little screws. I would use map gas to heat it and PB Blaster penetrating oil. Heat it, spray it, attempt to turn, repeat. It may take an hour test of patience. If it is still being stubborn I will use the hammer type impact. Again patience. The screws are small enough to break by hand. If you can get it to move at all you should be able to remove it with heat and PB.
BTW I would use red loctite on the screws when assembling.
Thread: question about stainless
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02-05-2010 09:44 AM
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02-06-2010 09:25 AM
I've had pretty good success w/blue LocTite. Particularly w/small screws. So the LocTite is doing double duty by coating the threads and not, in most cases, allowing galing, and it keeps vibration from loosening the fasteers.
Doesn't run either and seems to be water resistant.
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02-06-2010 10:10 AM
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02-06-2010 10:19 AMThe techniques are different in aluminum. The salt and corrosion accumulates in the threads. The salt crystallizes and expands locking it together. When heating patience is needed because the aluminum dissipates the heat through the entire piece. So it takes some time to got the area of focus hot. Some times a few heat cycles are needed. It seems the PB blaster gets drawn in as it cools. Once the screw head is damaged your done.
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02-07-2010 12:49 AMThe hammer type. I like them for the little screws. I look for the screw to move. Once it does move I know I can get it. I then move it back and spray again. If the screw moves I know the PB is getting in to do its magic.
It is all finesse with those dam little screws in the ring. And of course patience.
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02-07-2010 01:07 AMBy Hammer type, do you mean like my Milwaukee Cordless drill with the hammer mode turned on? I also have a pneumatic impact wrech.
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Cause somebody has to!
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02-07-2010 01:09 AMNo, I mean the hand tool that you hit with a hammer. Old, old school.
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