Dave
I may be painting some steel dump truck bodys over the winter. There is a ton of pits and surface rust. Rather than sand blast I was going to DA the areas in question. I was thinking of applying an expoxy base primer to seal and topcoat with Imron. Any suggestions? This does not need to be "show" quality but durable as possible. As you can see there are nooks and crannys that a DA will not reach which will require some manual sanding.
Thread: ? For Glass Dave
Results 1 to 14 of 14
-
12-10-2008 05:20 AM
-
12-10-2008 10:21 AM
I would really try to blast it or atleast spot blast, thats gonna be tough to DA. Or maybe maybe a 3 inch angle grinder? For primer use PPG's DP-48 (white) or DP-50 (i think thats the grey one) epoxy primer.
Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
-
12-10-2008 10:31 AM
Zinc Chromate for primer and then save your self enough on paint to go boating next year by using a industrial epoxy that Sherwin Williams sells.The epoxy is hard as steel and binds very well.Its 75 bucks for 2 gallons and is mixed 1 to 1.I have sprayed tons of stuff with it and every thing has held up like new it is the chit at a deal of the century price.
-
-
-
12-11-2008 08:01 AM
Very very good.Why do you want Imron? Durability ?If you insist on a namebrand i would take Awlgrip for durability over Imron.
But if it was mine i would save a 1000 bucks and spray it with the Sherwin Williams
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
12-11-2008 10:13 AMOne of my clients operates a fleet of several hundred salt spreader trucks. They have tried everything over the decades. They blast the bodies (which then necessitates a re-wire of the cab-back electricals) and then primes with POR-15. They overcoat in Imron.
We paint alot of equipment- I use Chassis-Saver and then overcoat with Rustoleum 9100 epoxy and get great results. If we do the refinish on a machine in-place, it can't be blasted. We do the whole unit with a twisted wire brush on an angle grinder, then use a needle scaler to get in to the tighter corners, then a good washdown with lacquer thinner, then prep-sol. If the rust is tight, Chassis-Saver penetrates it and seals it.
I've tried the Sherwin but our results with the Rustoleum warrant the additional cost. Imron is a modified urethane and is a bit more chip-resistant, but will wear through more quickly.Last edited by Chris; 12-11-2008 at 10:15 AM.
-
12-11-2008 02:48 PM
You ever try ospho on the rust? We have good luck with it.
Slippery when wet. PODLESS TUNNEL www.cheetahcat.com ,Repairs, Modifications and Truing Cheap reliable speed.
-
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
12-12-2008 02:04 PMChassis saver is alot like POR15, only thinner. It dries really fast and you get good coverage with one coat. it looks like semi-gloss black enamel. You can get it in colors too. www.magnetpaints.com
-
12-14-2008 06:10 AM
Definetly look into this, thanks Chris. Do you have any pics on completed projects?
-
12-14-2008 09:32 AM
The por-15 will definately hold up well, and you don't have to remove all of the rust. It is rather pricey though.
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
12-14-2008 09:49 AMAnything I'd have would be topcoated- and it would look like big, ugly industrial machinery. We put it on with a 1/4" nap roller and it flows out well- at least well enough for our purposes. Chassis Saver is less expensive than POR.
-
12-14-2008 10:01 AM
rhino-line :P
P-4077 "The Swamp" S.B.Y.C. and Michigan medboat mothership