Before I started this project I looked to see if anyone online had
any information or help. But no luck, lots of people asking but
very little info.
I would like to thank Ryan B, Sparky from Vicious,
Glassdave and even DareDevil for there help along
the way.
This is what I started with, a open F16 canopy. After a couple
close calls I thought it would be best to get a lid over my
head for extra safety.
I Than heated and shaped a very thin plastic sheet over the
opening and attached 4 screws in each corner to hold it in place.
After a few sheets of cloth it started to take shape.
After the glass hardened I removed them from the boat and
just kept wrapping the part with layers and layers of cloth
until it started looking like a part.
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Results 1 to 20 of 28
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05-11-2009 12:30 PM
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05-11-2009 12:41 PM
This part sucked; I was not to thrilled to attack my canopy
with a router. I made a part that bolted onto the bottom of
the router that kept it from cutting in more than 1 inch. Than
I set the cut depth at 1/2 the thickness of the lid.
The lids were than cut to fit. I just screwed the lids into place with me
inside the boat and with a Sharpe I just outlined the hole. Once that
was done I took 1 inch masking tape and fallowed the outline. This gave
me a perfect line to cut and with a little finish sanding she dropped
right into place.
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05-11-2009 12:46 PM
Rick...you don't need a lid... put this on your helmet and your golden, good to go....
P-4077 "The Swamp" S.B.Y.C. and Michigan medboat mothership
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05-11-2009 12:47 PM
Both lids fell right into place.
The front of the canopy had some air lip to help divert air
from the throttle mans face (I dont think it worked great)
You can see were it was sanded off and body worked.
The area was than prepped for paint.
The hardware was bolted up and trim was installed.
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05-11-2009 12:52 PM
Scott than used some type of Military F16 Canopy cleaning
compound to remove the surface scratches and scuffs.
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05-11-2009 12:52 PMLooks nice Rick.
What kind of glass and how thick did you go?
Also, inside locking/closing mechanism. What did you decide in case of blowover for rescue entry?Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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05-11-2009 01:05 PM
The lid was made from a "matte" cloth witch I was told is one of the strongest
and a 'Multi weave" cloth. Its a little over a 1/2 thick. I was going to make it
thicker but was told from a few boat builders that the given span that any
thing more would be a waste. I dont know if thats 100% true but I can
stand on the lids and "bounce" with very little flex (I'm 4ft 26" & 230lbs)
The latch was / is a custom made billet part from my Buddy's shop. It's similar to
the Doug Wrights only with a longer locking pin and stiffer springs so it dont
bounce open in rough water. I'm not sure how they will work on the F16 radius
but if I cant get them to work I'll go with the old F16 Skater style latch.Last edited by 2TR; 05-11-2009 at 01:11 PM.
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05-11-2009 01:24 PM
Rick i do not understand why you had to build new lids because when i was employed at Skater , we always used the cut out's of the canopy for the entrance way for the lids and did you consider a mini roll bar like Skater uses for the driver and throttle man ? Rick i would also recomend using the Skater latch because it work;s very well .
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05-11-2009 01:30 PM
The ones that were original cut out are MIA so I had to make something. The ones I got with the boat were not cut from this canopy. I tried making the work but they were just "not right" and it was easier to make them (or so I thought).
I did look into a roll bar system to give extra support, and still might.
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05-11-2009 02:20 PM
How hot is this going to be?
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05-11-2009 03:06 PM
looks good, nice craftmanship how tall is 4' 26"
Parabellum FJ²B
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