Can anyone tell me if there is any info available on repair/refresh TRS drives for the do it yourselfer ? Books , Videos . Need to know whats been learned over the years to help them last other than the ovious. Have ability to understand backlash, gear pattern match, crush collers, indicaters stuff like in a 9'' FORD rear .Running less than 600 hp twins . I know Konrads are the answer but wont be in the buget this season! Also who to trust to do the work if I have to send it out and around what price? I have 4 drives 3 need gone thru and set up . 1 needs lower gears as well, case is OK then they need powdercoated or painted. Thanks Dan
Thread: Trs rebuilding 101
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11-18-2008 09:11 PM
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11-18-2008 11:06 PM
I have a manual I downloaded from a merc backdoor or something, I can't remember. Its on my other laptop, I'll find it tomorrow and see what version it is. I think it was a couple hundred megs but I could probably burn it to a cd or something.
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08-03-2014 01:09 PMCan I get a copy of that manual I too have a twisted prop shaft
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11-18-2008 10:31 PMYou have to have the Merc tools to do the job yourself.
The TRS needs good clearances and regular oil changes.
Thjey don't like more than about 550 to 600 HP.
I would have every part in the drive cryo-treated and the gears isotropically micropolished. Shafts too. You'll get more life and more power handling capacity as a result.
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11-19-2008 12:46 AM
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11-18-2008 11:10 PM
Yup, its a pdf file i bet
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11-19-2008 12:18 AM
you got it....
Hi, Im Dave.. Welcome, glad to have ya.....
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11-19-2008 07:33 AMGood point on props. Stick to 3 blades. 4's give too much bite and dramatically increase failures.
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11-19-2008 02:12 PMThey should be the same rpm's if same brand.
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11-20-2008 08:09 AM
The upper units on the TRS drive are very beefy with large gears. You can easily pull the top and back caps to check the gears for pitting and wear. If they look good and the fluid was clean I would concentrate on the lowers, because the lowers are the weak link with TRS.
Use the best lower housings you have, with the most/thickest material around the bullitt. Make sure the lower gears you use have no pitting(new would be best). All the bearings are available from local bearing distributors except for one vert shaft roller bearing(merc only). Shims are also available from merc. It helps to have a parts catalog in addition to the manual.
Two important things to know about with the TRS lower: 1) The lower verticle shaft roller bearings are preloaded with shims that are located in the upper housing, and setting that preload properly is critical to survival. 2) The right rotation drive puts the lower drive gear(prop shaft gear) on the back side of the pinion gear, making the rt drive the weaker of the two (since the gear is not supported as well, being in the thinner part of the bullitt). Hard shimming the right lower instead of using the crush ring helps eliminate bullitt flexing, adding to gear life. All the stock parts in a TRS are bigger in comparison to the same related parts in a Bravo, so in good condition with proper setup, they can handle 650/700hp in a twin engine application. With 600hp, I would expect the lower gears to last over 200hrs(400+ on the upper gears).
I ran TRS's with 550/600hp on a 311 Formula for over 500hrs(hard), and the only issues I had were wearing out the lower gears, and cracking a freshly rebuilt lower housing at the bearing carrier because the housing was thin(wore out) around the rear of the bullitt. A stock 1" TRS prop shaft is beefier then a 1" Bravo shaft(non XR), so prop shaft failure hopefully wont be an issue.
Good luck, LE
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