Rusted Exhaust Pipe

[Poolman]

I need to replace the exhaust pipes due to rust. I need help in locating the piece that slides over the end of the header. I have called Stellings and it is not a piece they manufactured. Can anyone provide me with a manufacturer? I do not believe that this piece was made at a local level. http://seriousoffshore.com/forums/images/smilies/hurray.gifHelp Please..........7754077541

Thank you,
Fred

[Ratickle]

Is that an elbow with high temp silicon to seal as it slips over the header? I don't recall ever seeing anything like that setup before.

The elbow pieces are what you need to replace?

[Poolman]

The elbow piece is what I'm searching for. The high temp silicone is on the the front as you stated but I have no idea why. I purchased this boat as a restoration project. Just when I thought that I was at a point of selling it, the exhaust pipe blew a hole in it (where the high temp cloth wrap was, as shown in the picture). I have located someone that can build new exhausts out of stainless, but I need these pieces to go over the end of the header. I'm open to about anything, however I will need two sets as this boat has dual 454's in it.
Thank you for the help....Fred

[fund razor]

Do those exhaust pipes go down to a Y and into a through-hub setup? If so, what outdrives? (Doesn't look like they could be through-hull at that height.) The reason that I ask is that it might be cheaper and easier in the long run to go back to stock if those are custom.

(Also doesn't look like a marine flame arrestor. Looks like a street K&N air cleaner.)

[Poolman]

775487754977550


You are correct in on the air cleaner.....Take a look at these photos.....in photo 1641, you can see how the exhaust pipe in configured. The last piece that goes out to the tailpipe is stainless and still usable. It is the other pieces that I need.....and now I'm concerned about the air cleaners....guess that's not right either???

[fund razor]

Looks like a Chris Craft Stinger/Scorpion I had once. A few differences. Mine was an 87. But the exhausts on mine were thru-hub, meaning that they went through the outdrive center hole in the prop.

Now I get what's going on with the exhausts. I didn't expect water level corner exhausts. That's unusual on a sport boat. Not a problem, just unusual. Kind of restrictive for high performance applications, but no more restrictive than through the hub exhausts on many many boats that people enjoy with no problems. It's not like you are racing. I think that I will email a really good tech that we have on this forum who doesn't post much and get his opinion on a parts source for that setup. He has seen everything. He's probably seen something like that.

On the air cleaners, a very easy fix, but you want (and the coast guard requires) flame-arresting air cleaners. They use an overlapping metal mesh rather than paper element. They stop any backfire funny business from coming out the carb and igniting any fumes that may be present in the engine compartment. They come fancy and plain. I couldn't decide what I wanted to go with when I stepped down from 1050 Holleys to 850s, so I bought cheap ones like this: http://www.michiganmotorz.com/flame-arrestor-holley-4150-carburetors-p-548.html

[Ratickle]

There should be a part number on the filter element that will tell you if it is Coast Guard approved when you look it up. Typically they have a fine screen on them and the auto ones do not.

That exhaust is very interesting. I have to believe it was built by the boat manufacturer themselves. I'm trying to figure out why the water completely bypasses the exhaust from the end of the header to the bottom by the tee. There is no water in that section of the exhaust? I have to think about it and we need to ask a few more questions.

[fund razor]

There should be a part number on the filter element that will tell you if it is Coast Guard approved when you look it up. Typically they have a fine screen on them and the auto ones do not.

That exhaust is very interesting. I have to believe it was built by the boat manufacturer themselves. I'm trying to figure out why the water completely bypasses the exhaust from the end of the header to the bottom by the tee. There is no water in that section of the exhaust? I have to think about it and we need to ask a few more questions.

They look like a cross between a CMI and a GIL.

[Ratickle]

With no water wouldn't that section of the exhaust get too hot?

You emailing Jim?

[Ratickle]

This picture shows a bit of the screen on a marine K&N


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-N-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter-Marine-Flame-Arrestor-59-3364-/191012511979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c793ba0eb

[fund razor]

I zoomed in, but couldn't see the screen. Maybe he is fine.

[fund razor]

With no water wouldn't that section of the exhaust get too hot?

You emailing Jim?

I was thinking about emailing Jim and seeing if he would take a peek.

[Buoy]

Aren't all the new "big" Merc engines using a K&N style filter??
Is that because they are injected instead of N/A?

I'm asking because my knowledge of engines is pretty basic.

[Ratickle]

I couldn't tell either. Looks like someone stood on the one though. Take zero chances, if you can't figure it out from a part number or the heavy screen being there for sure, replace them.

[Buoy]

There are a lot of people out here running jet/v-drive boats with the engine bay open, so they don't concern about things like flame arrestors, or marine accessories (starters, alternators, etc...).

Years ago, I had the alt. go out on my Baja on a Saturday, and wanted to use the boat Sunday. I had to talk the guy at Autozone into selling me an alt. after I mentioned it was going in a boat. He was refusing to sell.
$95 alt. vs. the $400 marine alt.

Honestly, I never changed back to a marine alt.
But, I was ALWAYS diligent in using the blower and lifting the hatch - even before that. It's just how Dad trained me.

[fund razor]

I didn't mean to hijack this with the flame arrestor thing. Just didn't notice the screen and it caught my eye.

I have seen similar elbows (did some googling) with no threaded post for attachment. Wonder if all else fails, if a pair of threaded posts could be welded in place.

[Kohiba]

This part must be made! it is how exhaust will flow to outboard exhaust hole in the bussle area. Good call on the flame arrestor's.........safety first...you should find a rubber sleeve at the end and start of the exhaust (tramson and motor discharge connection) they took the cheep way out ,it is not sst which is why they put a heat wrap on it.Ill bet they started to Glow..good luck!

[Ratickle]

Volvo-Penta made a jacketed elbow for their exhaust system. Would that work? I'm assuming they were worried about reversion is why no water in the first elbow?

[Poolman]

I have checked and the K&N 's are defiantly the flame arrested type. Good call on the safety aspect of that! I have been told that the exhaust does have a safety issue in that the water does bypass (as seen in the photo where it is wrapped), as some of you have pointed out. If y'all have not already figured it out it is a 1987 Pachanga with factory 454 's. Not sure if the headers came OEM or not.

[Poolman]

There is NO water going through that exhaust. The water is taken from the header and then put back at the tailpipe to exit.

[fund razor]

I have checked and the K&N 's are defiantly the flame arrested type. Good call on the safety aspect of that! I have been told that the exhaust does have a safety issue in that the water does bypass (as seen in the photo where it is wrapped), as some of you have pointed out. If y'all have not already figured it out it is a 1987 Pachanga with factory 454 's. Not sure if the headers came OEM or not.

Sorry to cause alarm on the flame arrestors. Tough to see the screen in the pic.

I would be surprised if they did come with those dry exhausts. The cruiser manufacturers who made go fast style boats (wellcraft/sea ray/chris craft) usually used wet exhausts with log style/ center riser manifolds.

Here is an 88:

77558

[fund razor]

It probably had heavy rubber sections connecting steel pieces.

[fund razor]

77561
They did. I just googled "sea ray pachanga exhaust" and found a bunch of pics. You have a totally custom set up.

[fund razor]

Different pic in this ad:

http://www.powerboatlistings.com/view/17157

[Ratickle]

Did you find one with twins?

[fund razor]

Just the one in post 21

[Ratickle]

I did, but haven't found real good pictures yet.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/Sea-Ray-Pachanga-32-2527284/King-George/VA/United-States#.UstiuMKA3IU

It looks like the factory setup was modified to allow for the header application.

[fund razor]

So then the question becomes, why the dry headers?

Wouldn't be surprised if they did a cam job and were trying to "reversion proof" it.

Or they thought it looked cool, although I think that the black steel sections of pipe with black rubber connectors looks better.

[fund razor]

(Forgive us poolman, it's a blizzard up here and we don't have much to do.) :)

[Ratickle]

Just the one in post 21

Sorry, duh.... It looks like all the 32's came with twins, but there were a couple different exhaust routings to get to the single large thru-hull for each engine. It looks like they all injected water at the top of the cast iron manifold exit into the entire exhaust though.

[fund razor]

manifold/hose/elbow/hose/pipe/hose/elbow/hose/through hull pipe.

Just add clamps. T as needed.

[Ratickle]

Talked with Jim, the original exhaust on a Pachanga was junk. The exhaust actually was routed forward into a secondary manifold and then routed 180 degrees back out the two Euro exhaust ports. If you raised the bow of the boat too high the residual water ran back into the engines.

So, we need to think a bit more and figure out how to get water into that elbow to cool the balance of the system.

[Ratickle]

Still thinking. A couple of pictures of the original exhaust...

775827758377584

[Ratickle]

You may have to contact someone like these guys. http://www.mesamarine.com/

http://www.mesamarine.com/Wetells.html

[rschap1]

Look like some handy guys there at that site.

[Ratickle]

Well, somehow the boat need to have water injected into the elbow to cool the balance of the exhaust system. But, it has to be close to the end of the elbow, not at the beginning. So, to keep the elbow itself from getting too hot it needs to be a jacketed unit. The water would go out the header, into the elboe, exit the elbow into the exhaust and the exhaust would be wet the rest of the way. Then any stainless 4" piece would work for the tee's and hoses could be used to connect the stainless pieces.

I think I'm going to send this link to John Teague and see if he can figure out anything from his experience with their manufacturers on the left coast.

[fund razor]

Too bad nobody knows why they "dried out" the exhaust and if it was related to re-camming.

[Teague Custom Marine]

The way this exhaust is set up is definitely NOT OEM and NOT safe to have in a closed engine hatch environment. With no heat shielding I am shocked there are not charred or melted things from the infared head off those elbows. Unless the entire system was heavily wrapped before these pics were taken, this is an imminent fire risk. Even if they are wrapped, the heat introduced into the ambient engine compartment air will be terrible for horsepower. Our blower motors on the dyno glow dry headers orange all the way through the collectors.

It looks like some car guys put on stellings jacketed headers when doing some engine work and then made a Y pipe setup to adapt the headers to the original exhaust. The way is needs to be done is at least the first elbow, plus six inches needs to be jacketed, then you can dump the water into the exhaust gasses from the top half of the jacket. if you dump the water right at the header collector, then there will be major reversion issues, even to the point of hydraulic-ing. The whole system would need to be custom built one off.

I have to ask another question: after the Y pipe tail contraption, where does the exhaust actually exit the boat. Is it a single through transom down low, or does it exit at the stock through gimbal and hub setup? If it is not a straight through transom exit, you might as well put stock manifolds on as the system will just bottleneck in the gimbal.

JT

[Ratickle]

Thanks John,

If you look at this picture, the exhaust comes out the two Euro style ports in the back transom corners.

77549

Do you have any suppliers who sell, or make, the jacketed elbows he would need? If he gets 4 of those, anyone can manufacturer the tees required out of 4" stainless he would need to finish I think.

[Poolman]

You Guys are Awesome! I actually thought that ya'll had abandoned me and my problem, but today I saw the page button on the bottom right of the screen.(Duuuuu) No need to answer the PM Ratickle. (I'm sure you thought I had lost my mind.) Sounds like you guys are getting close. Appreciate it much!

[fund razor]

I think that recreating a version of the stock exhaust would not be difficult or crazy expensive. My concern would be if it has been dramatically (Overlapping) re-cammed. The concern is for reversion of water back into the cylinders, and hydrolock, which breaks stuff in the rotating assy.

Do you have any idea of how it is cammed? I ask knowing that you probably do not, because whatever was done was done before you bought it.

(Note: I am not a mechanic or engine expert. But after years of being around boats and having several repowers and a few custom engines, I have picked up a couple of things.)
This is a cool animation of regular vs. performance cam and when the valves are open.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

My intent is not to freak you out or spend your money. It is possible that the exhaust was done and the cams were never touched. It just seems reasonable to raise the issue.

[Ratickle]

You Guys are Awesome! I actually thought that ya'll had abandoned me and my problem, but today I saw the page button on the bottom right of the screen.(Duuuuu) No need to answer the PM Ratickle. (I'm sure you thought I had lost my mind.) Sounds like you guys are getting close. Appreciate it much!

I don't know how close we are getting, but we are sure asking lots of questions. I was going to answer the PM that we were trying. You said you knew someone who could build new exhaust out of stainless? Does that mean you have a stainless fabricator friend or business contact? Because if you do, it may be the easiest and best way to get what you need. I also believe John will be checking with some of his contacts out west to see if they can build what you need.

[Ratickle]

I think that recreating a version of the stock exhaust would not be difficult or crazy expensive. My concern would be if it has been dramatically (Overlapping) re-cammed. The concern is for reversion of water back into the cylinders, and hydrolock, which breaks stuff in the rotating assy.

Do you have any idea of how it is cammed? I ask knowing that you probably do not, because whatever was done was done before you bought it.

(Note: I am not a mechanic or engine expert. But after years of being around boats and having several repowers and a few custom engines, I have picked up a couple of things.)
This is a cool animation of regular vs. performance cam and when the valves are open.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

My intent is not to freak you out or spend your money. It is possible that the exhaust was done and the cams were never touched. It just seems reasonable to raise the issue.

Very reasonable and probably a mandatory concern. As John Teague said in his post, we need four jacked elbows made that will dump the water after 6 inches past the elbow.

[fund razor]

Is the "6 inches behind the elbow" the prescription for any reasonable possible exhaust valve duration?
If so, my point, and concern, is moot.

I remember that when Bob M. ground my cams, he had me measure that distance very carefully.

[Ratickle]

I don't know. Was Bob's advice for past the collector 6 inches or below the collector 6 inches before injecting water into the exhaust? I would think the below amount would also be of concern.

[fund razor]

I wonder if he could modify Gils by attaching to them with behind the point that they mix with a tube that would route to his euro through hulls?

[fund razor]

I don't know. Was Bob's advice for past the collector 6 inches or below the collector 6 inches before injecting water into the exhaust? I would think the below amount would also be of concern.

He had me measure the point that my Gils mixed at, and then he designed based on that. I want to say that they mixed like 11 inches back in the Gil stainless tube from the riser.

[fund razor]

Gils:
77642

[Poolman]

I have a friend of a friend who I understand is a very good welder/fabricator who has the equipment to weld stainless. I would have to give him specific direction on how to weld the exhaust. After reading all of your posts, I am convinced that this exhaust is not right and that it needs to be changed. I have spoke to my engine builder (Tom) and have invited him to the discussion.... to the best of Toms recollection the cams were .525 lift ,.260 duration....
in regards to the last post, where do I get the jacketed elbows and how do I have the exhaust assembled so that it is functional and more importantly safe??

[Ratickle]

I'm still digging, but you may have to make your own elbows so you can fit them to the available space in your bilge. You would have to use something like this ebay tubing provider:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-409-Stainless-Steel-Elbow-90-Degree-Bend-Brand-New/300765927701?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D19841%26meid%3D412 5854869621093041%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D8934%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D2010 05413598%26

and this one, (both may have 4' and 5"):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flowmaster-MB300901-4-Radius-Universal-Stainless-90-Degree-Mandrel-Elbow-Bend-/400579345003?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4463ba6b&vxp=mtr

So, to manufacturer your own elbow. You'd put a 4" that was longer inside a 5" and weld the ends closed to make the jacketed elbow. It would have to be the correct inside diameter on the one end to slip over the current header, and weld the studs on for the strap attachments. Plus a water inlet so the water could come out the header like now but go immediately into the elboe inlet. There would be holes inside the 4" inner tube on the outlet end to let all of the water go into the exhaust so it would be wet the rest of the way. You could probably shorten your existing tees to use, and everything would be held together with 4" ID exhaust hose and stainless hose clamps. That way your elbow would be cooled by the water in the jacket, which would continue inside your exhaust the rest of the way.

I'll think about it more, but it may be the only way. As the others think about it and put in their input, plus others review and comment, we should be able to sketch up a workable plan that can be quoted.

[rschap1]

For what it is worth...
and just because it has not been mentioned yet,
may be easier to check the cams' overlap and replace with stock or something acceptable if too great
and
replace the headers with stock manifolds, risers, and just tie into the euro exits with rubber hose.
just throwing it out there...

[Ratickle]

I was thinking of that also, but with all f the changes that have been made, and the good headers, I'm not sure I would go that route because of the issue with the tees etc.

[Poolman]

So this may sound a bit silly to ya'll,but could someone draw me a picture of what this new exhaust should look like? I understand the concept of the pipe inside the pipe for water and cooling, but not too sure of the distances that have been discussed...

I do appreciate the knowledge and advice you guys have provided....

[Ratickle]

Nope, not silly at all. Will do in the next few days.

[Poolman]

Had the fabricator here today, he is concerned the there will not be enough space between the distributor and the bulkhead. We did some measuring and it will be a very tight fit (1/4 of an inch tight) using a 5" pipe. Maybe this is why "they" built the exhaust the way they did?? Looking at it, I am also concerned that the movement of the motor might make the pipe rub or create heat on other components being so tight at the rear of the motor. We discussed turning the headers 180 degrees. is that possible? We thought that if we could do that, it would allow for allot more space and fabrication would be considerably easier.

[Ratickle]

You would be back down to 4" where the exhaust passes the distributor. Smaller than your current 4" wrapped.

I'll have a sketch and some pics up tomorrow.

[Ratickle]

77769
This is not an exact picture, but will give you an idea. You will have an elbow inside an elbow. The beginning, because of the way your headers are, will have the ID size the same as th OD of your header exit. That way it will slip over exactly like your current elbow and you will use high temp silicone just as you do now.

That elbow will make the entire curve and actually be longer on both ends than the outer, 5", elbow that will jacket the interior 4" elbow.

You will need four of these elbows. The actual 4" elbow should be exactly the same radius as your current elbows I believe, but you will know more as you mock up the first piece.

[Ratickle]

Your second piece may end up as a tee instead of an elbow, it is hard to tell from your pictures how much room you have.

[Ratickle]

77770

You can get an idea of what I'm talking about from this photo. Your final will be very similar. The water will come out of your header and go directly into the elbow. The end of the elbow, approximately 10" after the 90 degree bend, will have passage holes to dump the water into your exhaust and mix with the exhaust gas to hold the exjhaust temperature down so exhaust hose and non-jacketed stainless tees or elbows will work. Only the first elbow, or possibly a tee on the outside exhausts, will be jacketed.

Because of your clearance restrictions, you will not be able to go to 5" and leave it that way, you will go back to the 4", (I assume that's what it is), you currently have.

[Ratickle]

77771

If you can picture this elbow without the flange, you can kind of get the idea. It will start at 4", slip over your exhaust headers and the water line from your header will go to the water line in the elbow. Then it will neck back down, tapered looks good but not a necessity for function, the hose will slip over (the inside of the inner tube has holes to allow the water to dump into the exhaust), and it goes from there.

[Ratickle]

77772

Something along this sketch. Your current system is cooling the headers with the water in the jacket. The fabricated elbow is also jacketed to cool the elbow. Then the water is dumped into the exhaust, approximately 10" away from the header and approximately 4" lower than the header and is inside the exhaust to cool the exhaust gasses so the entire system from there on never gets hot enough to cause any safety issues.

If a Tee is needed on the outside exhausts it would use the same principles. A 4" tee with hole drilled in it where the 5" tube is jacked over the first part of the Tee.

[Ratickle]

The 4" exhaust hose should be no more intrusive than your current wrapped dry exhaust. Maybe less.

[Ratickle]

And everyone else, help to fix what I've missed. And does anyone know where this elbow may be found instead of being a one-off build?

[fund razor]

Did Mike Judge draw that? :)

[Poolman]

Nice!

[Ratickle]

Any questions at this point?

[old377guy]

Any questions at this point?

No, not really, except where did you acquire your mad engineering skills - The Key West Institute of Stuccoing and Snorkeling?

[Ratickle]

well, believe it or not, I used to draw cartoons with Matt Groening in high school. He stuck with it, I didn't.....


I still have some of my old sketches.....

[old377guy]

well, believe it or not, I used to draw cartoons with Matt Groening in high school. He stuck with it, I didn't.....


I still have some of my old sketches.....

Wow!

[Bobcat]

No, not really, except where did you acquire your mad engineering skills - The Key West Institute of Stuccoing and Snorkeling?

I'm a crayon guy ,thank you:cuss:

[Ratickle]

Wow!

I probably have some of Matt's old cartoon doodles too. We had a lot of fun in our senior English class.

[Poolman]

You guys are crazy!
So I contacted Dave, He is the person who made the exhaust fittings in the previous photos. Dave is very knowledgeable in this field and has agreed to build the exhaust fitting as suggested by "Ratickel". I will continue to post as this goes forward. Boat was painted today, so hoping to get all of this behind and see ya'll for the Destin, Fl. Poker Run !!! Pretty sure I owe "Ratickle" a few beers! Thank you for all of you insight and knowledge!!!

[fund razor]

You guys are crazy!

Yes, yes we are.

But also a tight-knit, good natured bunch of guys who enjoy helping other boaters. Hopefully you continue to participate in the forum.

Good luck with your boat! :)

[old377guy]

You guys are crazy!
So I contacted Dave, He is the person who made the exhaust fittings in the previous photos. Dave is very knowledgeable in this field and has agreed to build the exhaust fitting as suggested by "Ratickel". I will continue to post as this goes forward. Boat was painted today, so hoping to get all of this behind and see ya'll for the Destin, Fl. Poker Run !!! Pretty sure I owe "Ratickle" a few beers! Thank you for all of you insight and knowledge!!!

You're just lucky that you owe Rat a "few" beers, you'd have to take out a small loan if you owed some of our southernmost residents a "few" beers.

[Buoy]

well, believe it or not, I used to draw cartoons with Matt Groening in high school. He stuck with it, I didn't.....


I still have some of my old sketches.....

I know that The Simpsons are based on his actual family, as well as many other characters.

Fess up Paul.
Were you Millhouse?:sifone:

[Ratickle]

You guys are crazy!
So I contacted Dave, He is the person who made the exhaust fittings in the previous photos. Dave is very knowledgeable in this field and has agreed to build the exhaust fitting as suggested by "Ratickel". I will continue to post as this goes forward. Boat was painted today, so hoping to get all of this behind and see ya'll for the Destin, Fl. Poker Run !!! Pretty sure I owe "Ratickle" a few beers! Thank you for all of you insight and knowledge!!!

On the outside exhaust, are you able to go with an elbow and tee or are you going with just tee's?

[Ratickle]

I know that The Simpsons are based on his actual family, as well as many other characters.

Fess up Paul.
Were you Millhouse?:sifone:

I doubt that one.....:)

I always thought Bart was our friend Barton (last name withheld to protect the innocent), but Matt says no, it's an anagram of brat.

[rschap1]

Millhouse?
:)
:)
:)

[Ratickle]

On the outside exhaust, are you able to go with an elbow and tee or are you going with just tee's?

And any questions you may have at all, ask. We will try to figure it out. I really think it will look fairly similar to that first diesel exhaust system picture.

[Bobcat]

:confused:

[Poolman]

I'm sending pictures and such to Dave this week and he is going to design the system.I will post it as soon as I see it!!

[Buoy]

:confused:

I actually LOL for that one!

[Poolman]

So, I'm back to the drawing board. Dave at Green Water Marine Exhaust has decided that he did not want the job. He did suggest that if I were to build the same exhaust that I might try to contact the folks at West Coast Insulation and have them manufacture a some heat protection for the exhaust (http://www.wcinsulation.com/insulation-solutions/heat-protection). What do y'all think????

[Ratickle]

Did he say why?

[Ratickle]

And I'll have some updates when I get home.

[Topher]

Poolman,
David Rank from CMI will be able to help you out with this. He can be reached at 920-722-7084.

[Ratickle]

Hey Chris, thanks. The followup is certainly appreciated.

I chatted with Chris for awhile at the show and told him what the problem on your boat was and that I would get back to him with a link to this thread. I guess he got tired of waiting for me and took care of finding the thread himself and checking it out. (He hasn't yet commented on my mad sketch skills though).

Chris at the show.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww310/ptrose/miami%202-2014/IMG_3298.jpg (http://s730.photobucket.com/user/ptrose/media/miami%202-2014/IMG_3298.jpg.html)

One of their items on display at the show which would be slightly similar to what is needed to fix your system.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww310/ptrose/miami%202-2014/IMG_3299.jpg (http://s730.photobucket.com/user/ptrose/media/miami%202-2014/IMG_3299.jpg.html)

[Poolman]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I really appreciate yall keeping me in mind. I will give Davis a call in the morning and update the thread with the news. The time for speed and sun is is almost here!!

[Ratickle]

You say that cause you're in Florida. Our lake may thaw by June if we're lucky this year. The low forecast:

5 Day Forecast Updated: Feb 25, 2014, 7:05pm EST
Tonight
Feb 25
Snow Shower 20°F
Observed High
10:25 am
8°F
Snow Shower
CHANCE OF SNOW:
80%

WIND:
WNW at 18 mph

SNOWFALL
1-3 in



Wed
Feb 26
Snow Shower / Wind 12°
10°
Snow Shower / Wind
CHANCE OF SNOW:
60%

WIND:
WSW at 22 mph

SNOWFALL
1-2 in



Thu
Feb 27
Snow Shower / Wind 11°
-5°
Snow Shower / Wind
CHANCE OF SNOW:
60%

WIND:
NW at 24 mph

SNOWFALL
2-4 in



Fri
Feb 28
Snow Shower 15°
12°
Snow Shower
CHANCE OF SNOW:
50%

WIND:
NW at 9 mph



Sat
Mar 1
Few Snow Showers 18°
6°
Few Snow Showers
CHANCE OF SNOW:
30%

WIND:
NNW at 8 mph
Details

[Topher]

Well Ratickle, seeing you had asked..... Very nice rendering!! All good things start on a bar napkin!! Keep them coming!!

Poolman, Not sure if you talked with David today, if not feel free to contact me at 920-886-8237, my direct line.

[Ratickle]

Thanks, (but you shouldn't tell fibs!).

[Ratickle]

Getting anywhere?

[Poolman]

Nope. Called David a few weeks ago and re-sent him pictures (I had reached out to him in August 2013) and I'm still waiting on a return call. I can't believe this is so difficult. A guy would think that folks who are in this business would be busting down the door to make this exhaust. So far that has not happened.

[Ratickle]

Call Chris at the number he gave above.

[Poolman]

Spoke to David yesterday. His quote 8K !! UUUUGGHHHH.....

Anyone wanna buy a boat? I need to find another option. Shes a cool boat but I think I'm heading into ridiculousness.

[Ratickle]

Yep, that's a bit high for what you have. It would be cheaper to replace the headers with wet-headers with downturns and then use the current tee's with the water in them. Two sets of new lightnings would be about half the 8G.

Did you get my email?

[rschap1]

Again...maybe see if the cams dictate the need for headers.
If not return it towards the stock manifolds and set up.

[Ratickle]

The stock one was one heck of a mess too. I think some of his pieces actually came from the original stock system.

[fund razor]

Ok, how about Gils as the manifolds and the gil tails, which mix pretty far back and down, and use the end of the mixed tail as the starting point for a fabricated single wall tube Y and elbow.

[Ratickle]

Does anything here seem close? I also chatted with Letty from Stainless at the show but thought Chris had you handled.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww310/ptrose/miami%202-2014/IMG_33071.jpg (http://s730.photobucket.com/user/ptrose/media/miami%202-2014/IMG_33071.jpg.html)

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww310/ptrose/miami%202-2014/IMG_33081.jpg (http://s730.photobucket.com/user/ptrose/media/miami%202-2014/IMG_33081.jpg.html)

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww310/ptrose/miami%202-2014/IMG_33131.jpg (http://s730.photobucket.com/user/ptrose/media/miami%202-2014/IMG_33131.jpg.html)

[Poolman]

I did not get your email Ratickle. my email is fred@thebackyardoutlet.com. Having not a clue what I'm talking about it seems to me that I should start looking at removing the Stellings headers and looking into something else, which is the direction that I feel you guys are going as well. I have spoke to Chris at West Coast Insulation and he told me that he could put a fire shield over the single wall pipe and he thought that would be a solution (I see that in the picture above). If y'all can hook me up with some contacts for new headers and exhaust ie "lightnings" , I can investigate that., I'm not opposed to some "used" stuff too. I don't know if that kind of thing is out there, but if we go this route there will be a set of slightly used Stellings for sale. :)

****What I do know, is the Emerald Coast Poker Run is 4 months away and I owe you guys some beers for the help!!****

[Ratickle]

Look at the stainless marine pics and pay attention tyo the elbows that are close to what you need. Letty's email is letty@stainlessmarine.com

You would need to email him a layout of the pieces you need replaced, which I believe are the four elbows? Maybe you could lay them out on a piece of graph paper and take a photo with the measurements so it would be accurate to perceive. Then they could check to see if they have an easily modified piece they already make.

As for Lightnings, do you boat mostly salt or fresh water? They make a stainless inner, mild steel outer for mostly fresh water, (flush when you use in salt water), or an all stainless for mostly salt water. Big difference in price.

You could also go with EMI or IMCO, or ? in a cast aluminum manifold with a stainless riser for less than 2G per engine.

[Poolman]

Thanks Ratickle. I will head that direction....

[Ratickle]

Well, any luck yet?