Slighty OT, different, STARTER ??

[rschap1]

Pretty far removed from offshore power boating, but...I got a deck boat with a 4.3 Volvo Penta motor.
When I first started it this year the starter stayed hung up and engaged.
Before I could get it shut off, the starter's drive motor pretty much melted.
Even when turning the key off, motor kept running.
I had to choke the carb by hand to finally get it to quit.

It is a REAL PAIN to get at this thing, so I did everything and checked everything hoping not to pull it, but once off it was obviously wrecked.

Got a new one last night, installed it, and seems to be doing the same.
I am wondering if the new starter needs to be shimmed, or does it sound like another issue.
Maybe an electrical problem up stream?
I am inclined to think it is an alignment and needs shims, but after 2 doing this same thing I am wondering.
Starter came with 2 different sets of bolts, a shim, and also a 3/16" thick foam gasket that fits the nose of the starter.
"Instruction" sheet included said some models need different bolts and the gasket.
Doesn't look like these are needed in my application, but I am really wondering why these are there...
I have the starter off now and am going to try and ground it with 1/2 a set of jumpers and run the ignition to see if when unbolted it does what it should.
Appreciate any help or ideas.

THANKS as always here ! ! !

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

A bad key switch can cause a problem like that.

[rschap1]

Well..
Put a test light at the switch terminal of the solenoid, and at the back of the starter last night AND...


could not get anything to F' up like it did before.
Had the starter off with one lead of a jumper cable set connected to the neg. termnal of one of my batteries, and the other to starter housing for ground. Cycled it dozens of times like this, all good. Started to wonder if the alignment may have been off, or if the shim was in deed needed. Ran the test light trials again and everything acted like it was supposed to. Remounted the starter and started and then shut down the engine at least a dozen times. All good. I did use a different set of bolts. I dd not see any difference between the old ones that I used initially (same length and I even calipered the diameters where they are knurled assuming this was to help alignment and all seemed VERY close). The pair I used were those intended to be used with the new starter from supplier. No idea if there was any connection between results and the bolts or not.
I pulled the ignition switch from dash panel to see what kind of configuration it was. I will be buying a new one and just do not trust the switch. Guessing the switch was the culprit now, but scared this will rear it's ugly head at a bad time when I can't get to the choke or battery switch QUICK enough to keep from melting another starter.
Appreciate the help and advice! ! !

[old377guy]

I was told that the knurled upper portion of the bolt shank is key to maintaining proper flange alignment. Hopefully you used the bolts with the largest knurled shank diameter. I trust that you always keep you safety main switch(es) off when your boat is not in use. Good luck. - Jeff

[rschap1]

The old bolts and the set I used had similar knurled diameters.
I was guessing that they helped locate it when the second included set was different. Must be there is a little difference in a counterbore area of the bolt's tapped holes in the block.
And, yep, the battery switch gets turned off when I am not running the boat. AND when I was wrenching on the starter too:)