Ilmor 725/Indy build from the beginning

[C_Spray]

I've voted with my wallet when it came time to repower by 28' Batboat, and the nice guys at Ilmor (especially ILMORDude) have agreed to keep me updated. I thought that it would be kind of neat to see how one of these packages comes together step-by step.
Here's the first step - House of Kolor TruBlue Shimrin Pearl, one of the optional colors. By sheer coincidence, it's also the same exact paint used on my boat. Gotta love it.
More coming every day, I suspect. :sifone:

[Uncle Dave]

Its looking sweet.

I believe you will be ecstatic with your engine.

Welcome to the family!

Uncle Dave

[TIKI]

Can you add a pic of the bat boat; so everyone can see what it's going in?

Should be an awesome combination!

[Tom A.]

That is going to be a sick ride Chuck! If you need a co-pilot for your Barnegat Bay Blackjack Run, let me know!

[ILMORdude]

I'm preppin parts for the build today!!

[C_Spray]

..If you need a co-pilot for the Barnegat Bay Blackjack Run, let me know! DaveP's already got his cape ready. I'm not sure if we can fit BOTH you guys in!


Can you add a pic of the bat boat; so everyone can see what it's going in? Should be an awesome combination! A variety of shots from between 1999 and 2003. She's been parked for 6+ years, but I got the urge to go trailer-boating again. We pull this with a Grand Cherokee, no problems. We plan to make the Smith Mountain Lake Poker Run on May 22, Jammin' on the James July 10, and the NJPPC Blackjack Run on September 4.

[Caincando1]

Great looking boat and holy hell is it going to fly with that engine/drive package. Any idea how fast it's going to go?

[C_Spray]

Great looking boat and holy hell is it going to fly with that engine/drive package. Any idea how fast it's going to go?
Thanks. We ran 92 with 630 hp in 2002, but that was with a DuoProp drive and the prop centerline 7" below the water. We're shooting for zero propshaft height with this package, plus another 100 hp, so it's hard to tell. The Rain-X raceboat ran 107 with 720 hp and a DuoProp, so 110 mph is probably not too far off. We're going with a 1.39:1 gear ratio to minimize prop torque and assuming 10% slip, so that works out to about a 28" or 29" pitch prop at 6400 rpm. We'll find out for sure in about five or six weeks.

I think that the engineering behind the Ilmor/Indy package is right-on; no blower and a 1,000 hp capable drive. I'm a great fan of reliability...

[TIKI]

Great looking boat. I love those little hot rods! I'm with you....I like reliability. I'd rather be boating then working on it! This is a cool project...I'll be following it along. Thanks for sharing.

[HaxbySpeed]

What model Volvo is the drive?

[Sunsation96]

Very cool keep the pics rolling, Ilmor's motors turned out great in the Sunsation I hope to see more from that combo also in the future

[macjazzy]

What model Volvo is the drive?

Pretty sure C-Spray had a DPX on that boat, which is the same drive he has on his big boat. It was a performance variation of their standard Duoprop. Had integrated hydraulic steering and a much more hydro-dynamic lower section. I don't think many, if any, parts interchange.

The standard Duoprop drive runs into a wall around 60-65 mph. Its just too much drag in the water.

The DPX was a very reliable drive that enabled a performance engined boat to plane off like a runabout and still get great speeds out of it. Unfortunately they don't make it any more. Not sure how parts support is for the drives still out there.

I'm sure C_Spray will chime in and correct any misinformation I have here, but I think I am pretty close on most of it.

[C_Spray]

...I'm sure C_Spray will chime in and correct any misinformation I have here, but I think I am pretty close on most of it.No need. You're right on the money. Here's the boat as delivered to me in July 1997, with a DPX-R, 1.59:1. It was later upgraded to a DPX-A 1.47:1 drive (see second photo). The DPX-A drive that was on it is now the spare for my 382 Formula.

[C_Spray]

Anyway, this badboy is the real focus of this thread. (Only in blue...)

[OldSchool]

Awesome Chuck. I look forward to following the build and re-rig!!! Thanks for posting it!! :)

Nancy and I still talk on occaision about the hellride that you took us on in that thing !!!!:eek::eek::eek::sifone::cheers2:

[Wrinkleface]

very cool powertrain redo! keep us posted!!!:cheers2:

[ILMORdude]

this little sucker is gonna haul balls............I wanna ride Chuck!!

[DaveP]

That package is going to be the cat's azz............or I should say "the bat's azz" :)

[Tom A.]

DaveP's already got his cape ready. I'm not sure if we can fit BOTH you guys in!
.

No, Dave has to run the safety boat!!:sifone::USA:

[Ted]

Can't wait to see the rest of this build Chuck. See you at Jammin', if not before. Ride maybe? :D

[C_Spray]

More bits coming together. Lots of handwork and TLC. Immaculate.

[C_Spray]

....Ride maybe? Charter member status on SOS and discounted CBPBA membership maybe? :bump:

No sweat - absolutely. No screaming, wimpering or crying, though.


Nancy and I still talk on occasion about the hellride that you took us on in that thing!!!! That was a walk in the park; only had 530 hp that day, probably never exceeded 82 mph. Do these shots look familiar? Check out the hot chick on that badazz Formula 223.

[Ted]

Charter member status on SOS and discounted CBPBA membership maybe? :bump:

No sweat - absolutely. No screaming, wimpering or crying, though.



Looks like Charter up there to me :confused::)

Should have caught me when I was Treasurer for that discount:sifone:

You shall not hear a peep out of me, well maybe a YEEHAW or something:sifone::sifone:

[Uncle Dave]

Thanks. We ran 92 with 630 hp in 2002, but that was with a DuoProp drive and the prop centerline 7" below the water. We're shooting for zero propshaft height with this package, plus another 100 hp, so it's hard to tell. The Rain-X raceboat ran 107 with 720 hp and a DuoProp, so 110 mph is probably not too far off. We're going with a 1.39:1 gear ratio to minimize prop torque and assuming 10% slip, so that works out to about a 28" or 29" pitch prop at 6400 rpm. We'll find out for sure in about five or six weeks.

I think that the engineering behind the Ilmor/Indy package is right-on; no blower and a 1,000 hp capable drive. I'm a great fan of reliability...


I think you are right on at about 110 maybe a bit over or under, the Indy is the unknown element here.

This rig

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apWZkv_f4bc

Runs around 105 with a 710 and and scx drive that consumes far more power than the Indy.

Good luck thanks for the picts.

Uncle Dave

[MarylandMark]

Nice! I love the Ilmor products!

[ILMORdude]

Be another day or so before final assembly.........

[Biggus]

Great thread! Nice work for sure. Looking forward to the updates:sifone:

[C_Spray]

Be another day or so before final assembly.........So? You haven't done ANY more subassembly or dressing work in two days? We need photos here, man! I'm trying to promote you guys! ;)

[phragle]

. We pull this with a Grand Cherokee, no problems.

you don't need a Cherokee to tow a batboat.....

pUto1o7w4wM

[C_Spray]

Go about 10 seconds into this video. Hope mine sounds as good!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oy0GCazM2QY

[ILMORdude]

So? You haven't done ANY more subassembly or dressing work in two days? We need photos here, man! I'm trying to promote you guys! ;)

Hah, ill get some play by play as I put her together. Gotta bunch of orders to fill and people to please!!

And Chuck, i hope you dont have sound regulations where you boat cuz this baby gonna be loud at WOT.

[SteveDavid]

Hi Chuck,
That's going to be a neat combination, the boat is still cutting edge design and the Ilmor program is a leap forward in engine/sterndrive reliability. Enjoy!
Steve

[C_Spray]

Great to hear from you, Steve! I still appreciate the private Black Thunder demo ride in Miami all those years ago. Have you heard from Cheap Hangover lately?

I'm looking forward to a really bulletproof combination. I've always believed that the transmission (and drive) should be stronger than the engine. Certainly the last 15 years worth of countless Bravo (and NXT!) horror stories on these sites has convinced me.

ILMORDude - CMI is working with me on a set of tailpipes with the mufflers integrated right into them. Tricky project, as I need a 2" downwards offset between the header outlet and the transom holes. (Low engine hatch.)

GlassDave and I have a busy weekend ahead of us on the transom as well...

[C_Spray]

The latest from Plymouth:

[Tom A.]

Looks awesome Chuck! GlassDave is the best, he did some work for me on my Kryptonite and it was top notch!

[ILMORdude]

Happy with the pics Chuck?

[MarylandMark]

Does your shop ever get dirty? That place is spotless in every single pic I've ever seen.

[ILMORdude]

Does your shop ever get dirty? That place is spotless in every single pic I've ever seen.

Mark, the word dirty is not allowed in Plymouth. Stop in and see for yourself!!

[C_Spray]

Looks awesome Chuck! GlassDave is the best, he did some work for me on my Kryptonite and it was top notch!We had a 100% successful weekend. All the lamination work was drawn up on the computer beforehand, we used templates to cut it all out, and everything fit perfectly.

[C_Spray]

More lamination, vacuum bagging, more carbon, more Kevlar, more 1700 biax, more epoxy. From back to front, the sequence is:
7 layers of 1700 biaxial S-glass
1 layer of 7 ounce Kevlar
1/2" marine plywood inset
1 layer of 1700 biaxial S-glass
1 layer of 7 ounce Kevlar
1 layer of 5 ounce carbon fiber
1/2" marine plywood filler
1 layer of 1700 biaxial S-glass
1 layer of 5 ounce carbon fiber
1 layer of 7 ounce Kevlar
1 layer of 1700 biaxial S-glass
1/2" marine plywood inset
1 layer of 7 ounce Kevlar
3 layers of 1700 biaxial S-glass
2 7" high knees 10" along the floor, encased in one layer of 1700 biaxial S-glass and one layer of 5 ounce carbon fiber

That oughtta do it.

[ILMORdude]

Chuck, you are aware of the transom drill jig we have right? Its a pretty sweet setup.

And ps- Great work this weekend!!

[C_Spray]

Chuck, you are aware of the transom drill jig we have right? Its a pretty sweet setup.Ian promised that you guys would loan it to me. Send me details, or better yet - post them here.


And ps- Great work this weekend!!GlassDave knows his stuff, which is great because this was an unusual fill-in and will be pushed pretty hard. Even before we added the last few layers, it was solid as a rock. He and I both lost some sleep last week while we were working out the actual cutout patterns and lamination schedule, but we were both immensely pleased with the final result. Once we got everything opened up and prepared, we were both amazed by the build quality of this hull. It was laid up by a yard in Norway that specializes in racing sailboats; they did an incredible job.

[C_Spray]

More shots of ILMORDude's handiwork. A really clever packaging job on these engines.

Because the stingers in my boat are very close together, I have to use foot-style forward engine mounts instead of an offshore-style plate. I was a little nervous about this until I saw the mounts in these pictures. Definitely uber-beefy parts. Nice.

[Biggus]

Very clean. Great use of space.

[Wahoo 214]

Excellent project.

What is the Loto Kilo record for a single stock 28' Vee? I bet that you can be close.

[macjazzy]

Looks great, awesome engineering in those engines. I do have a question though, are they going to make that oil filter remote mount? If not will you have any issues changing it in your boat?

It is definately in a better spot for maintenance than where a Chevy variant engine would be without a remote mount, But it looks like it will still be fairly deep in the bilge.

[Uncle Dave]

Looking awesome as per usual Ilmor.

It takes a great deal of time and effort to properly assemble an all aluminum engine.

You need to be very very careful paying extra attention to threading and proper torque, or risk stripping, cross threading and pulling out bolts.


Uncle Dave

[ILMORdude]

More shots of ILMORDude's handiwork. A really clever packaging job on these engines.

Because the stingers in my boat are very close together, I have to use foot-style forward engine mounts instead of an offshore-style plate. I was a little nervous about this until I saw the mounts in these pictures. Definitely uber-beefy parts. Nice.

Thanks!! I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy assembling them!


Looking awesome as per usual Ilmor.

It takes a great deal of time and effort to properly assemble an all aluminum engine.

You need to be very very careful paying extra attention to threading and proper torque, or risk stripping, cross threading and pulling out bolts.


Uncle Dave

You know it............Thx UD

[C_Spray]

This is the forward side of the gimbal, a very butch part. The single (gigantic) trim ram attaches to the lower arms. Trim position sensing is done electronically via a rotary sensor, so there are no push-pull cables to route, seal, sieze or break.

The rearward end of the steering rams attach to the clevises that you see on either side.

[C_Spray]

The completely self-contained dry sump lower unit. The oil reservoir is cast into the lower unit, so there is no need to mount one inside the boat, and therefore no lines to run to/from the drive.
I believe that the o-ring at the front seals the pressure feed to the upper unit. Since the drive oil circulates back down into the lower unit and gets cooled, there is no need for a drive shower.

[C_Spray]

Based on this shot of complete drives, business appears to be moving along...

[cowisl]

Based on this shot of complete drives, business appears to be moving along...

Keep the pics coming. cool thread!

[Uncle Dave]

The completely self-contained dry sump lower unit. The oil reservoir is cast into the lower unit, so there is no need to mount one inside the boat, and therefore no lines to run to/from the drive.
I believe that the o-ring at the front seals the pressure feed to the upper unit. Since the drive oil circulates back down into the lower unit and gets cooled, there is no need for a drive shower.

F-in awesome.

UD

[lavey jr]

Everything is looking really good.
I'm looking foward to seeing how this boat runs with a single Indy drive and #6 prop.

[C_Spray]

Transom casting - another beefy piece. There is no inner transom casting, only a backup plate. Everything hangs off of this piece.

Rear view:The lower gimbal pin is supported both inside and outside of the gimbal ring to put the pin in double shear and provide more strength to handle the thrust loads. The two ears at the lower corners are the attachment points for the forward end of the steering rams.

Front view:The "Pi symbol"-shaped casting at the top has all the ports for both the integrated hydraulic steering and the trim. Fittings can be attached from either side or both sides in the case of twin installations. The transmission slips into the front of the central bore, and a pin slides through the boss you see above that bore and through a clevis on the top of the transmission. That is the rear engine mount, so there is no alinging to do at the rear. Good thinking (and just like a Volvo DPX... :) ). PLUS - The boat doesn't sink if the bellows gets torn.

[stainless]

Very Cool!

[C_Spray]

GlassDave's excellent drawing of the transom lamination. The dashed yellow lines indicate 7 ounce Kevlar, the dashed black lines indicate 5 ounce carbon fiber, and the dashed silver lines indicate 17 ounce biaxial S-glass. There are actually three layers of glass on the inside, tabbed into the floor and stringers, and no less than seven layers of glass on the outside.

[ILMORdude]

Chuck, Post the complete transom assy pics. Ill get a good shot of our drill jig so everyone can see it tomm

[SHARKEY-IMAGES]

Coming along nicely Chuck !

[Wrinkleface]

very cool!:cheers2:

[BOJOE2]

LOOKS awesome as always

[C_Spray]

Chuck, Post the complete transom assy pics. Ill get a good shot of our drill jig so everyone can see it tommI forgot that I had these pictures. Uber-beefy transom assembly; the biggest trim and steering rams in the business and super-neat plumbing. No bizzarely-shaped hard lines, and the line clamps are a nice touch. You can also see now how the lower steering pivot pin is in double shear for extra strength.

More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR? :confused:

Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:

[cosmic12]

Very cool upgrade and thanks for posting all the info, great thread.

[C_Spray]

Headers, transmission and all the remaining accessories are on. It's ready for the dyno.

[ILMORdude]

TruBlu looks bada$$. Great choice especially with matching heat exchanger!!

[ILMORdude]

More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR? :confused:

Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:

And ps- where were you this weekend sir??:driving:

[TIKI]

Those are the cleanest looking motors ever!

[ILMORdude]

Those are the cleanest looking motors ever!

And this is PRE-DYNO! Wait til she gets dressed for the occasion! :kiss:

[R'Addiction]

And this is PRE-DYNO! Wait til she gets dressed for the occasion! :kiss:

Ilmordude, I'm Chucks cheif diet pepsi getter, tool cleaner, picture taker, and once in a while I get to use a ratchet:willy_nilly: I was wondering if you can get us some video of the dyno run? It would make a great conversation piece on saturday night:drool5:

[C_Spray]

A dyno video would be very cool, but IlmorDude would have to be standing inside the actual cell to get the best footage... :willy_nilly:

More shots of the business end. The transmission is a driveshaft-style unit used for dyno testing. Mine will use a plug-in style. The transmission is a hydraulically-actuated dry sump design that uses clutch plates rather than a cone clutch, so shifting should be quite smooth. Parasitic power loss in the transmission is almost non-existent.

The engine and transmission are true fly-by-wire designs. Since my boat already has mechanical cable controls, we'll be using the cables to actuate the throttle and shift electronics. Ideally, I'd like to eventually switch over to full electronic controls and delete the cables.

The previously-mentioned rear engine mount is clearly visible in this shot, along with the engine/transmission controller. This box has full OBD-M diagnostics and logging, and is capable of driving any NMEA2000-compatible display, like the latest chartplotters and multifunction displays. You have a lot of engine information right at your fingertips with this package.

[ILMORdude]

A dyno video would be very cool, but IlmorDude would have to be standing inside the actual cell to get the best footage... :willy_nilly:................

I aint scared of that shiz............if they'd let me i'd stand in there!! I dont have a good enough quality recorder to capture the sound from inside. :driving:

[Jassman]

I forgot that I had these pictures. Uber-beefy transom assembly; the biggest trim and steering rams in the business and super-neat plumbing. No bizzarely-shaped hard lines, and the line clamps are a nice touch. You can also see now how the lower steering pivot pin is in double shear for extra strength.

More to come from IlmorDude. I cannot believe that they pulled him off of my engine and drive to attend some second-rate race in Bristol last weekend. What was then name of that series? FASCAR? GASCAR? LASTCAR? :confused:

Oh, yeah - "NASCAR". There's no way that could be important. :boxing_smiley:

very impressive..the more I research Ilmor the more I'm impressed..The next generation..

[C_Spray]

I aint scared of that shiz............if they'd let me i'd stand in there!! I dont have a good enough quality recorder to capture the sound from inside. :driving:Is there any footage of any of the F1 or Indy engines? It was always a life-changing experience to stand in the same room as an 700- to 900-horsepower engine revving in the teens. Of course, the methanol fumes were enough to shorten your life an hour for every minute that you were in the room... :leaving:

[ILMORdude]

Not that im aware of chuck. Maybe Mario has some but probly no "public" vids.

[C_Spray]

The transom's getting close. Very dusty work...

[ILMORdude]

Its getting hooked up right now.

[C_Spray]

Its getting hooked up right now.When you go to start it up, call me from the dyno room, and I'll put it on my speaker phone.... :)

[ILMORdude]

Check that, its a silver heat exchanger on a blue one. Not yours, sorry!

[C_Spray]

Well, while I'm waiting for the dyno backlog to clear out, things are moving on.

Since the engine will be mounted about 4" higher than before, the headers will require some "lumps" in the engine cover for clearance. The stylized NACA ducts will disappear completely.

Since the original engine covers are of cored Kevlar/epoxy construction and fully painted, I didn't want to hack them up. I called Rex Jardine at Vector Powerboats, and it turns out that they still have a set of molds to make original "Mannerfelt"-style hatches. For a very reasonable price, they laid up a set of hatches with just the outer skins; no coring or inner skins. These will serve as the basis for a one-piece hatch, and make life much simpler than having to strip and cut up the original ones. :hurray:

Still (as always), this process is inevitably going to involve more of the dreaded fiberglass dust... :ack2:

[C_Spray]

Since it's pretty much standard practice for the tabs to match the drive(s), I had mine painted. Ilmor was kind enough to supply me with the proper paint code, so in return, I machined the logo of a certain competing marine components manufacturer off of the planes....

[Tom A.]

Looking sweet Chuck!

[ILMORdude]

Ok so chucks 725 is dyno'd and in line for prep now. And I was able to get the final few mins of run time on video including the power run!! Gotta put it together as one vid now. Stay tuned!

[C_Spray]

Cool. Once I get the transom painted, I'm ready for it. Finished the (hopefully) last fill-and-sand operation today. It's nice and flat now!

[C_Spray]

The tailpipe/muffler rim rings are done, just need to cut the ID of the gaskets out.

[ILMORdude]

man this boat is gonna look killer when finished!!

[C_Spray]

The gasket fits into the back side of the trim ring with .010" crush. The gaskets are cut with a final ID of 4.90" to fit nice and snug on the pipes.

I couldn't resist machining a little accent in to the front. I'll use these both inside and outside. They were kind of a fun lathe/mill project over the weekend.

[Ted]

I couldn't resist machining a little accent in to the front. I'll use these both inside and outside. They were kind of a fun lathe/mill project over the weekend.


I painted my thermostat housings black.... kinda doesn't compare huh:rolleyes::sifone:

Very cool project Chuck, looking forward to seeing the finished product. Shakedown Cruise maybe?

[stainless]

Awesome!

[C_Spray]

Final topcoat is on, so there is no bare aluminum. I added a little purple tint and some prismatic powder to the clear as well.

[C_Spray]

I cut an undersized hole out of the transom on Sunday to see how things would go. My router template worked pretty good, and the lamination looks really solid. GlassDave and I were shooting for 2", so I guess I'll settle for 2.058".

Now, If I can just get IlmorDude to push my engine to the front of the line... :bump:

[ILMORdude]

I cut an undersized hole out of the transom on Sunday to see how things would go. My router template worked pretty good, and the lamination looks really solid. GlassDave and I were shooting for 2", so I guess I'll settle for 2.058".

Now, If I can just get IlmorDude to push my engine to the front of the line... :bump:

What ya have in mind??? :cheers2: LOL

[SOX]

Come on Lets gt this bad boy on the dyno!! Spot light is lit and its time to SHINE

[SOX]

The gasket fits into the back side of the trim ring with .010" crush. The gaskets are cut with a final ID of 4.90" to fit nice and snug on the pipes.

I couldn't resist machining a little accent in to the front. I'll use these both inside and outside. They were kind of a fun lathe/mill project over the weekend.

And I wonder why Victor thought the header gaskets were OEM, what would he think of these??:sifone:

[ILMORdude]

Come on Lets gt this bad boy on the dyno!! Spot light is lit and its time to SHINE

Its already been across the dyno!! Shes in line for final prep now!!

[SOX]

coolness :)

[C_Spray]

This I like. They're starting to pack it up!

[ILMORdude]

And I started prepping your baby this afternoon. I'll fire some pics your way tomm am. Are you coming to get it?????

[C_Spray]

Nope - You guys are shipping it to the shop, just like you did the stock car engines.

I don't have YouTube access at work, so email me a copy of the video, if it's not too big.

[C_Spray]

Ready to go in the crate!!!! :cheers2:

[DaveP]

Bad Azzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

[Airpacker]

Looks sweet. What did it dyno at?

[C_Spray]

According to ILMORDude, it pegged the needle at "Bad Loud". :drool5:

Seriously, I don't know the actual number beyond the fact that it met their specs. As Rolls-Royce used to put it: power is "adequate". :huh:

Maybe ILMORDude can chime in here. I believe that accepted marine industry standards are within something silly like 5% or 10% of rated power, but I'm willing to bet that these engines are far, far more consistent than that!

[ILMORdude]

According to ILMORDude, it pegged the needle at "Bad Loud". :drool5:

Seriously, I don't know the actual number beyond the fact that it met their specs. As Rolls-Royce used to put it: power is "adequate". :huh:

Maybe ILMORDude can chime in here. I believe that accepted marine industry standards are within something silly like 5% or 10% of rated power, but I'm willing to bet that these engines are far, far more consistent than that!

I think you are right with the 10%..............but the front carbon tells the story for ya...............:cheers2:

[C_Spray]

...but the front carbon tells the story for ya... I take that to mean that it made at least 725.1 horsepower.


Do you have any approved-for-release drive assembly pics? We kind of glossed over that part of the process.

I can't wait for this package to get here.... :willy_nilly:

[glassdave]

you sure that things gonna fit? :D

[C_Spray]

you sure that things gonna fit? :D

You'll probably be my first call if it doesn't.

Other than some header blisters, the computer says it will. This drawing is the version with a 3 degree wedge plate to drop the nose of the engine.

[ILMORdude]

You'll probably be my first call if it doesn't.

Other than some header blisters, the computer says it will. This drawing is the version with a 3 degree wedge plate to drop the nose of the engine.

I regret to inform you that wedge plates are not approved so your warranty is now "inactive"
Lmao....... Jk. Ill see what pics I have of drive assembly stuff.

[C_Spray]

Well - Here's the good news. Looks like a busy weekend coming up!:

Shipping is good to go. You should see them before noon on Saturday.

Scott Mount
Customer Service Manager

:willy_nilly:

:kiss:

:hurray:

:cheers2:

:party:

[Tom A.]

Guess I need to take a ride out to PA soon and see this monster!

[C_Spray]

Come out this weekend, and you can participate in it's installation!

[Tom A.]

Ughhh, I wish I could help. We had a few people over Friday night! Small batch whiskey, red stripe and bourbon marinated cherries equals a unique hangover!

[03darkshadow]

any updates? its past noon on saturday. cant wait to see this out on the river.

[ILMORdude]

He's jamming on it right now! I got an email from him at 9ish and he received it. By 10am it was sitting in the damn boat!!! I'm sure he'll have some good pics later.

[C_Spray]

The guy was waiting in the parking lot when I arrived at 7:45 AM. He had been there since 1:30 AM and had slept in his van. I'm glad that he didn't call me; I would not have been able to sleep. It was unloaded by 8:45 AM and mocked up in the boat by 9:30 AM!

[C_Spray]

After checking everything out to confirm my calculations and the computer's drawings, I pulled the engine back out around 11:00 AM. By 1:30 PM R'Addiction had shown up and we had the transom cut out and drilled. By 3:30 PM, the whole shebang was back in for final mockup. We even got started on cutting the new hatches to clear the headers. G-R-E-A-T day.

I cannot say enough about the quality of the parts and pieces from Ilmor. Absolutely world-class workmanship. :USA:

[Tom A.]

Awesome Chuck! Both the look of everything and the productive day! I didn't realize how tight that engine fit is! Wow!

[jonp]

That looks frickin great!!!!!! Lovely to se a "Swedish" boat beeing treated this way. Absolutely brilliant!

[MacGyver]

That boat needs a see-thru hull to show off that work of art all the time !!

[Macklin]

Sweet!

Bring that to JOTJ!! :driving:

[DAREDEVIL]

Awesome Chuck! Both the look of everything and the productive day! I didn't realize how tight that engine fit is! Wow!

:iagree: :cheers2:

[C_Spray]

The engine has essentially the same dimensions as the Chevy big-block. Even though it's a V-10, it has closer bore spacing, and the width across the headers is about 33".

We are already signed up for JOTJ, so we'll see you there, Macklin!

Got my tailpipe mockups made, and pulled everything back out today. Bilge cleanup and final rigging starts next week.

[Smarty]

Looks great, that is very cool.

[jdub]

Looking good...won't be long now! Can't wait to hear that thing!

[SOX]

Chuck what is the exhaust mock up made from?

[C_Spray]

Chuck what is the exhaust mock up made from? PVC pipe. 4" PVC has an OD of 4.5", which is the same as the outer tube will be, and 4" couplers have an OD of 5", which is what the mufflers will be. Sure is a WHOLE LOT easier than working with stainless, but the static electricity makes all the chips and dust stick to everything like mad.

[DAREDEVIL]

PVC pipe. 4" PVC has an OD of 4.5", which is the same as the outer tube will be, and 4" couplers have an OD of 5", which is what the mufflers will be. Sure is a WHOLE LOT easier than working with stainless, but the static electricity makes all the chips and dust stick to everything like mad.

NICE :cheers2:

[C_Spray]

Check out how butch the trim ram pin and trim pivots pins are....

[ILMORdude]

Check out how butch the trim ram pin and trim pivots pins are....

Nice folder!! :driving:

[C_Spray]

Nice folder!! :driving:
I think it's what the owners' manuals go in, if you remember to send them. You must have been so excited to pack this little jewel up that those items slipped by you. :willy_nilly:

...or do you have so much confidence in my mechanical abilities that you presumed that I could figure everything out on my own? :huh:

Now that I think about it, this may be the first ever customer-installed Ilmor package. Have all the others been factory installations?

Don't worry - Customer Service has me sorted out. :toetap05:

I'll get your drill jig returned to you as well. (That thing is awesome.)

[ILMORdude]

I think it's what the owners' manuals go in, if you remember to send them. You must have been so excited to pack this little jewel up that those items slipped by you. :willy_nilly:

...or do you have so much confidence in my mechanical abilities that you presumed that I could figure everything out on my own? :huh:

Now that I think about it, this may be the first ever customer-installed Ilmor package. Have all the others been factory installations?

Don't worry - Customer Service has me sorted out. :toetap05:

I'll get your drill jig returned to you as well. (That thing is awesome.)
Yes you are #1 customer installer, and i have the total confidence in your ability and I am part of customer service!!! :kiss: Im here for you also...haha

[DAREDEVIL]

Yes you are #1 :kiss: Im here for you also...haha

Oh chit....:bump::sifone:

[C_Spray]

Yes you are #1 customer installer, and i have the total confidence in your ability...

Hey! How about that!!! :cheers2:


...and I am part of customer service!!! :kiss: Im here for you also...hahaFair enough, but being there is not quite as helpful as being here when it comes to actually getting the physical work done... :smash:

By the way, Paul Milligan helped me out with the details on the Indy drive trim sensor, so I ordered two more to adapt to my tabs as well. That setup is sooooo simple and sooooo trick!! Instead of having a nightmare of cables, linkages and holes in the transom, your setup is almost impossible to even see, uses a simple water-tight connection integrated into the transom shield, and is cheap to fix (if it ever fails). Brilliant.

Now I can use the LED bar-graph position readout for all three. I was going to buy the Mercury SmartCraft sensor setup, but the total for all that crap was over $800 for the two tabs. Doing it the Ilmor way will set me back about $120 or so, and is way, WAY simpler. You guys do a great job of thinking outside the box!

Where's the dyno video????!!!!

[ILMORdude]

Ian still has the files and he's at an undisclosed location right now ;). I will get it to you asap when he returns.

[C_Spray]

Ian still has the files and he's at an undisclosed location right now ;)...The men's room?

I will get it to you asap when he returns.Post it if you can. I'm sure that lots of people would love to see it.

[C_Spray]

Started on the engine mounts today. That's a 3/4"-10 UNC bolt you see in the middle...

[Bo-G13]

Nice project!!!
Is Ilmor still selling the Gen III motors???

[ILMORdude]

Nice project!!!
Is Ilmor still selling the Gen III motors???

You damn right..............what size u want?

[Bo-G13]

You damn right..............what size u want?

Depends on how much you are gonna charge me!!!! :willy_nilly: :USA:

[ILMORdude]

Depends on how much you are gonna charge me!!!! :willy_nilly: :USA:

Pm me what your thinking. And we'll go from there.

Are you done yet Chuck?!!

[C_Spray]

Engine mounts are done (less powdercoat). Now I have to start on the spacers to compensate for them being further forward and higher...

[TopSpin80]

I'd like to hear more about the trim indicators, would they work on a #3 merc and k planes?

Thanks,

Ernie

[C_Spray]

The indicator use a sensor will work anywhere that there is rotation. If you can't attach them directly to (or in line with) the shaft, you could always create an arm-style linkage.

Ilmor is not in the trim tab or sensor business, but I believe that Livorsi is looking into this technology.

[Andrew]

Any updates Chuck?

[C_Spray]

Got the old dash and wiring stripped out in preparation for the Ilmor stuff, the bilge painted, and the hatches bonded together this weekend. If you've never used Plexus before, be prepared with lots of ventilation. That stuff is intense, but it stuck two fiberglass parts together like they were made as one.

I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel now...

[C_Spray]

After a couple of weeks delay due to pesky business travel, the final push starts for Smith Mountain Lake in two weeks. The transom is now in primer and ready to paint, and the water pickup has been sorted out.

[ILMORdude]

I have the vids clips but wanted to combine 3 into one vid but they are .MOV files and im not that computer savvy to get them converted for the movie maker. They are too huge of files for me to email also!

[C_Spray]

WE'RE PAINTED!!
Now things can start going back on for real...

[C_Spray]

A great day. L-O-T-S of unseen work accomplished as well. All this stuff is on for good now. :26:

[C_Spray]

Getting there now. It's starting to look busy.

CMI's done with the tailpipes. They made the baffles removable for me, so we can adapt to whatever noise regulations are in effect wherever we happen to be. (I think that I'll start off at "5-inch open cannon" level and see how that works...)

[ILMORdude]

Getting there now. It's starting to look busy.

CMI's done with the tailpipes. They made the baffles removable for me, so we can adapt to whatever noise regulations are in effect wherever we happen to be. (I think that I'll start off at "5-inch open cannon" level and see how that works...)

Wow, thats gonna be LOUD!! :cheers2:

[DAREDEVIL]

Getting there now. It's starting to look busy.

CMI's done with the tailpipes. They made the baffles removable for me, so we can adapt to whatever noise regulations are in effect wherever we happen to be. (I think that I'll start off at "5-inch open cannon" level and see how that works...)

I see in the first picture, u don't have a valve on the water pickup ?????

I would think this over !! LOL

Other then that ,,,NICE and i bet also its going to hammer away in peoples ears...which i love !!!!:sifone:

[C_Spray]

I see in the first picture, u don't have a valve on the water pickup ????? I would think this over !! LOL... I did; I should have ordered the pickup with the male 1" NPT threads. Looking at the slip-on version, the most likey point of failure is where the 1-1/4" tube is welded to the transom flange, in which case the valve would not help. Anyway, I'm not even sure that I could reach down into that area once everything is installed! :ack2:
At least I have a valve on the inlet side of the strainer, the connections are double-clamped 180 degrees apart, and I'm using the heavier 2-wire green stripe Shields hose... :cheers2:

[C_Spray]

"Optional" baffle setup number one.


Go CMI! You guys rock!

[C_Spray]

A HUGE Thank-you to R'Addiction!!!

John hung in with me for two solid a$$-busting days to get this thing done. He put up with everything (including me getting grumpy a few times...) and we lit it up at 8:15 PM Sunday night.

(Yes - It's awesome....)

A few small finishing jobs to do, but I hope to run it Tuesday night.

<phew>

[Bobcat]

Can't wait to see/hear it on the water !:)

[DAREDEVIL]

"Optional" baffle setup number one.


Go CMI! You guys rock!

NOW that is fkn cool !!!!!!!!!:cheers2:


about the the other thing with failure on the pick up...most likeley ( as far as i know ) the hose slips off at press spyke's !!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

VALVE 100% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DAREDEVIL]

Can't wait to see/hear it on the water !:)

:iagree:

[C_Spray]

Engine photo courtesy of R'Addiction. The engine is lacking the decorative shrouds and still has the protective film on the intake and heat exchanger. Once we're "really done", I'll put the bling back on and peel off the film. I'm very happy with the clean look of the bilge; there's very little visible wiring and plumbing.

...and I WILL make the hatch more presentable soon.

[C_Spray]

I got the NMEA 2000 network properly terminated, so I was able to configure the engine and the Garmin digital display. Very cool stuff. I also installed the air cleaner, which contains the intake air sensor, so the engine's a lot happier now. The fluid levels are checked after running everything, and the transom shroud is on. The props have been test-fitted, and the lettering is going on today.

We're down to some finishing touches on the engine hatch, installing the driver's seat, rear seat upholstery, carpeting and we should be good to go for a shakedown on Blue Marsh Lake Wendesday evening. Here's hoping it all goes OK. I've missed running this boat for almost seven years... :hurray:

[Andrew]

Looks awesome Chuck. Hope to see (and hear) it sometime this summer. :cheers2:

Some of the pictures make you wonder if it'll float with all the hardware on the back :willy_nilly: j/k

[ILMORdude]

Im gonna try and upload the dyno video files. Sorry it took so long!

[C_Spray]

My "few touchup jobs" kept me at the shop until 11:00 PM last night, but:

Tonight we run! :driving:

Those of you with astute memories will note that we got the boat completely re-rigged and the engine installed quicker than ILMORDude could edit a dyno video..... :beatdeadhorse5:

[Bobcat]

Ouch !:sifone:

[ILMORdude]

Since I couldnt post it on the other forum where you blasted me, ill post your new driver suit pic on SOS!!!

[C_Spray]

@*% SHA - ZZZZAAAAM!!

%#@ Ka - POOWWWW!! *($#*

$%@Wham - O!! @$%!

%@&# Zang!!! &#*


Freakin' rocketship.

If you roll into the throttle hard at 60, the numbers roll up so fast on the GPS that your eyes can't register anything until around 88. Even then, they're just a blur.

We've still got air in the hydraulics, both steering and trim. It was passing through 5400 rpm when it started hopping and we shut it down. The GPS tell-tale now reads....




100.

Screwed up with the GoPro, so we only have this still of the start of the run instead of video. The roostertail was.... "significant".

I am a VERY HAPPY CAMPER. :driving:

[C_Spray]

All set for Smith Mountain Lake - SEE YOU THERE!

[TIKI]

Awesome project. Thanks for documenting it for us.

[C_Spray]

We had a problem-free weekend at Smith Mountain Lake. A very-well run and super-friendly poker run. This thing just ran like a train all day, and used very little gas. Impressive.

[C_Spray]

We never got rid of the 100 mph hop, but we had no other props to test. The 2" and 1" spacers are not the way to go; they just kill speed.

The boat ran like a freight train all weekend:

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL - FAULTLESS!!!

Heartfelt thanks go to the folks who really made this happen:

1.R'Addiction, for his unwavering friendship, great help and (most importantly) moral support and motivation. There's no way this would have happened without you, John.
2.Ilmor High Performance, for an awesome package and amazing customer support. When I called them at 8:00 PM on Sunday night, they answered. They also called me back at 7:00 AM on Monday morning to give me the rest of the answers to my questions. Never, ever doubt this company's motivation.
3.GlassDave Sikorski, for stepping up to the bat on a tricky project. (And even working the weekend...)
4.Old School, for loaning me some expensive props, no questions asked.
5.Bobby Moore, for the incredible amount of knowledge and advice he is willing to share.
6.Brownie, for being like Bobby, but even funnier.
7.The online supporters who kept me going.
8.MobilMercMan, for a quiet word in my ear that saved me a LOT of trouble.
9.JRapp, for pitching in every time he came by and for being a huge help at (and documenting) the first test.

[C_Spray]

I came up with another prop to test, courtesy of Bobby Moore. It's a 15.5 x 29 five-blade versus the 16.5 x 29 four-blade I've been running. It should have 3 degrees more rake as well. I hate to change more than one thing at a time when testing (in this case, it's four things...), but this is all that's available right now. I'm going to try it with the 1" spacer, since it's still installed, then try it a zero propshaft height. It may or may not be better, but it's bound to be different!

[C_Spray]

Humph. Didn't like that prop at all. Too much pitch for the engine to rev up, and not enough diameter to hold on once things started to pick up. In the 80's both with and without a 1" spacer.

....On the other hand, the engine looks great now that we peeled the protective plastic sofa covers off of it. (Just for you, Craig....) :kiss:

[C_Spray]

We'll be at the Northern Chesapeake Poker Run this weekend if anyone would like to check out the engine or drive. The run starts from Tome's Landing Marina in Port Deposit MD with a lunch stop at the River Watch on Middle River. It's a nice run for those who might be interested...

[03darkshadow]

when are you going to be out there, i'd love to check it out. i think we'll be out on the water friday at around noonish till whenever.

[C_Spray]

The prop arrived from Hering - amazing workmanship. We expect to be down at Tome's Landing around 2 or 3 this afternoon and do some testing.

Ilmor is sending me some brochures to pass out to those who might be interested in the package or one of their engines.

Hope to see you there!

[Andrew]

The prop arrived from Hering - amazing workmanship. We expect to be down at Tome's Landing around 2 or 3 this afternoon and do some testing.

Looks like another work of art. What are the specs on the new prop?

[NASCAT]

The prop arrived from Hering - amazing workmanship. We expect to be down at Tome's Landing around 2 or 3 this afternoon and do some testing.

Ilmor is sending me some brochures to pass out to those who might be interested in the package or one of their engines.

Hope to see you there!

What is the advantage of the counter rotating drive? Same rotation as the engine??

[C_Spray]

Andrew, the prop is 16.5" diameter, 29" pitch, 18 degrees rake. This was the original estimated spec that I worked out with Hering, and it seemed to work well on the Bay, although it was so choppy over the weekend that I was unable to tell whether or not that additional rake provides the bow lift and stability that we are looking for. I'll probably re-test it back-to-back with the four-blade 14 degree prop at our local lake in the next week or so.

NASCAT, I went with left-hand rotation, as the consensus from a number of people was that single-engine boats tend to run "a bit" better that way, although no one has any idea why that might be true. Frankly, I can't see as to why it would matter, unless it has to do with better handling in left-hand turns, which most race courses are...

Anyway -We had a blast at the Northern Chesapeake Poker Run on Saturday, and ran the boat moderately hard with no problems (other than heat in the cockpit in the No-Wake zones...). The Bay was pretty choppy, bordering on rough, and I mis-throttled the boat badly on a couple of occasions without any drive problems.

[NASCAT]

Even though you are still fine tuning sounds like you are getting good relaible use out of your do it yourself complete repower / rerig project & that is impressive.

Thanks Again for Sharing!

[C_Spray]

Reliable is exactly the word.

After two Poker runs, I've had ZERO problems or issues with the engine and drivetrain. I'm as impressed as ever with Ilmor's work. I even put their new logo on the boat... We ran the new Hering at last weekend's Northern Chesapeake Poker Run, and it seems to be better, but the water was so much rougher than the local lake, it's hard to tell. We're going out on Blue Marsh Lake tonight and do a back-to-back test the Hering versus the original 4-blade.