JimBobs....tools

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Alright lets see them. Many people make or modify tools for a particular job. Here are some simply ones.

If you sat on a stool and used these for a couple hours what were you doing?
I used to do it pretty regular. Not so much any more.

50280

These are helpful at times. I use the Outboard one more.

50281

This I grab nearly every day.

50282

[Ratickle]

If you sat on a stool and used these for a couple hours what were you doing?

50280



Carving a decoy??????:sifone:

[Biggus]

The top pics looks like the tools used to remove the upper swivel pin, knock the nut around after you drill those awful holes in the transom plate, swappng the gimbal ring.

The second looks like a wire harness used to run a fully rigged motor on the floor or test stand.

...third pic, I'm at a loss.:ack2:

Kurt

[Bobcat]

3rd pic is Texas toilet paper:leaving:

[txriverrat2001]

2nd pic - compression test on an outboard, spark board test, etc...????

And the female part has power, ground, start, and switched power..... but the brain hasn't figured out what exactly for....

dying to know - someone with your experience may make some of my diag time shorter!!!

[txriverrat2001]

I'm lost on the last one.......

[Wrinkleface]

3rd pic is Texas toilet paper:leaving:

is that what Clay keeps on the Cig 4 the mates????:eek:

[timewarp]

Third one to possibly go between cavitation plate and prop holding prop from turning to remove prop nut?????

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The top pics looks like the tools used to remove the upper swivel pin, knock the nut around after you drill those awful holes in the transom plate, swappng the gimbal ring.

The second looks like a wire harness used to run a fully rigged motor on the floor or test stand.

...third pic, I'm at a loss.:ack2:

Kurt

Yes Biggus you are correct on the 1st and second. I also use the outboard harness for trouble shooting.


Third one to possibly go between cavitation plate and prop holding prop from turning to remove prop nut?????

Time warp is also correct. It works out to be a great prop block. It is a cutoff scrap of star board I found at Fountain. I have been using it as is for about 10 years.


Anybody else have something to share?

:)

[Ratickle]

Now we need pics of them in use......

[ILMORdude]

I got some good ones at work. No pics though. Maybe when i get back to work after my 16 days of vacation!!

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I got some good ones at work. No pics though. Maybe when i get back to work after my 16 days of vacation!!

I would like to see them.

[scottw]

Hey MOBILEMERCMAN, I gotta use those tools to try to bring up my gimbal ring. The holes are already drilled on the sides of the transom plate. Any tips you can give me? What is the bolt with the nut and is that used?

[endeavor1]

3rd pic is Texas toilet paper:leaving:

:cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss:

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Hey MOBILEMERCMAN, I gotta use those tools to try to bring up my gimbal ring. The holes are already drilled on the sides of the transom plate. Any tips you can give me? What is the bolt with the nut and is that used?

The bolt is for the plug that fills the hole. I didn't have a 5/8 allen.

First tip is be patient. Take the time to grind a chisel to the right angle so you can get good contact on the nut. One of mine is sharper for the original nut that doesn't have the notch cut. The others are more like a flat punch for the notched nut.

[scottw]

The bolt is for the plug that fills the hole. I didn't have a 5/8 allen.

First tip is be patient. Take the time to grind a chisel to the right angle so you can get good contact on the nut. One of mine is sharper for the original nut that doesn't have the notch cut. The others are more like a flat punch for the notched nut.

Ok, The nut on mine has no notch. I made up a center punch type punch but I guess I need a chisel type also. I have to loosen the nut/bolt on the steering tiller also, correct?

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Yes, loosen the tiller arm bolt. The chisel needs to reach from edge to edge on the nut. You should first hit it to create a ridge. Then turn the ring so you can then turn the nut. Once you work around and have a chisel line on each surface it begins to go faster. Also once you find a good angle move the ring as you turn the nut so you keep the good angle to strike your groove.

How far has yours dropped?

[scottw]

Yes, loosen the tiller arm bolt. The chisel needs to reach from edge to edge on the nut. You should first hit it to create a ridge. Then turn the ring so you can then turn the nut. Once you work around and have a chisel line on each surface it begins to go faster. Also once you find a good angle move the ring as you turn the nut so you keep the good angle to strike your groove.

How far has yours dropped?

Mine has dropped somewhere between 1/8-3/16 of a inch. When you say edge to edge you mean from corner to corner on nut and I kinda drew up this picture. hold the chisel like the upper chisel or the lower chisel to the nut.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

That has dropped a bunch. Did you measure it at the top of the ring or the space at the lower pivot.

First things first. I have found success making a vertical groove [chisel mark] near the corner of the nut. You don't want to actually hit the corner you will end up with a rounded off mess. Create a groove just in from the edge.

Second thought. I feel I must also share. The rings can also drop due to corrosion between the steel upper swivel shaft and the aluminum ring. I have found in most cases when the ring drops the ring is worn. Unless it has external steering. I suggest you also check to see if the seal is laying on the top of the gimble ring.

Keep me posted. I hope it will tighten up for you. The spec is something like .002 to .010 measured at the lower pivot between top of ring and the upper pin holding ear, boss what ever it is called.

[Geronimo36]

Gimbal bearing installation tool.
Shift Cable installation tool
Alpha shift cable removal socket.

[Ted]

That has dropped a bunch. Did you measure it at the top of the ring or the space at the lower pivot.

First things first. I have found success making a vertical groove [chisel mark] near the corner of the nut. You don't want to actually hit the corner you will end up with a rounded off mess. Create a groove just in from the edge.

Second thought. I feel I must also share. The rings can also drop due to corrosion between the steel upper swivel shaft and the aluminum ring. I have found in most cases when the ring drops the ring is worn. Unless it has external steering. I suggest you also check to see if the seal is laying on the top of the gimble ring.

Keep me posted. I hope it will tighten up for you. The spec is something like .002 to .010 measured at the lower pivot between top of ring and the upper pin holding ear, boss what ever it is called.

Hey Jim, while we are on the subject, I have both my rings dropped about 1/4" as far as I can tell (they lift that much when I jacked the drives up to remove them). But I do have external steering. So what should I expect to find worn when I pull these things? At this point I am planning on pulling the transom assemblies since the motors will be out, which should make the repair easier right?

[scottw]

That has dropped a bunch. Did you measure it at the top of the ring or the space at the lower pivot.

First things first. I have found success making a vertical groove [chisel mark] near the corner of the nut. You don't want to actually hit the corner you will end up with a rounded off mess. Create a groove just in from the edge.

Second thought. I feel I must also share. The rings can also drop due to corrosion between the steel upper swivel shaft and the aluminum ring. I have found in most cases when the ring drops the ring is worn. Unless it has external steering. I suggest you also check to see if the seal is laying on the top of the gimble ring.

Keep me posted. I hope it will tighten up for you. The spec is something like .002 to .010 measured at the lower pivot between top of ring and the upper pin holding ear, boss what ever it is called.

Thanks Jim. I measured everything down at the bottom pivot pin. and no to the seal. It is still in its proper place. I really appreciate your help and input. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Need a semi warm day here in the Northeast. Sorry for kinda hi-jacking your thread but when I saw the chisels I kinda knew what they were and someone responded and confirmed the tools. Thanks again, Scott

[Ted]

Hey Scott, we can get together and have a party, do them at the same time :sifone: Beer, grease, and cussing, nothin better :cheers2::sifone:

[scottw]

Hey Scott, we can get together and have a party, do them at the same time :sifone: Beer, grease, and cussing, nothin better :cheers2::sifone:

Oh yea!!!!! I'm really not looking forward to this project. Seems like something always goes wrong and causes more work.

[Ted]

I did the TRS's on my last boat and it went surprisingly well. Had to improvise a little on the puller and the press to replace the bearing but worked pretty well otherwise.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Hey Jim, while we are on the subject, I have both my rings dropped about 1/4" as far as I can tell (they lift that much when I jacked the drives up to remove them). But I do have external steering. So what should I expect to find worn when I pull these things? At this point I am planning on pulling the transom assemblies since the motors will be out, which should make the repair easier right?

Ted, the upper swivel carries the weight of the drive. In most cases I have seen the ring is the problem. However the last one I did had x steering and it tightened up perfect. I did remove, reseal, and install new bushings with the new swivel shaft. Is yours tight if you check it for side play in and out and side to side? I would suggest in your case to see what yours need. are they do for bellows ? Is the top tight side to side? If everything is good except the height go ahead and service it. If it needs to be bushed sealed bellows and stuff you should check out a new assembly. They are occasionally available complete with trim for what it costs to replace a ring with labor.

By pulling the assemblies off you do save the hassle of drilling the holes. It is a toss up for me. The time to remove everything once the engines are out and re install is similar to the time to repair from outside. You wont have the plug holes which I personally prefer no to see. And you don't open a potential can of worms, need to bleed trims, replace transom seal, and the temptation to paint everything.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Oh yea!!!!! I'm really not looking forward to this project. Seems like something always goes wrong and causes more work.

Scott, I always suggest to do everything on the outside at once. Bellows, shift cable, oil hose. The big bellows are a 5 to 7 year service item in my experience and the small shift less. No sense doing part of the job and revisiting it next winter. I am happy to help ...Good Luck

[Ted]

Ted, the upper swivel carries the weight of the drive. In most cases I have seen the ring is the problem. However the last one I did had x steering and it tightened up perfect. I did remove, reseal, and install new bushings with the new swivel shaft. Is yours tight if you check it for side play in and out and side to side? I would suggest in your case to see what yours need. are they do for bellows ? Is the top tight side to side? If everything is good except the height go ahead and service it. If it needs to be bushed sealed bellows and stuff you should check out a new assembly. They are occasionally available complete with trim for what it costs to replace a ring with labor.

By pulling the assemblies off you do save the hassle of drilling the holes. It is a toss up for me. The time to remove everything once the engines are out and re install is similar to the time to repair from outside. You wont have the plug holes which I personally prefer no to see. And you don't open a potential can of worms, need to bleed trims, replace transom seal, and the temptation to paint everything.

I don't have any other play than up and down, but one side appears to be leaking past the seal, so I may have some damage from the water getting in there. And yeah, I am thinking about paint, pulling tabs, etc. It does tend to escalate once the engines are out. :rolleyes: