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    New Gimbal Bearing
    #1
    Registered ozarkdevil's Avatar
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    I ordered a new set of gimbal bearings for a pair of XR Drives, the part # was for Mercury red dot bearing but I got a white dot bearing. All the measurements are the same on the new & the old bearing, the only difference is the new bearing is a sealed bearing and the old bearing is a greaseable bearing. I called the parts supplier who then called Mercury & Mercury said it is the new & improved replacement bearing. I might be a little old fashion but it seams to me that a greaseable bearing is the better choice. Does anyone have any info on this new bearing?
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    #2
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    I don't have info but, I am with you I think grease able is better. Seems to be the trend now many bearings including cross bearings are sealed. I call BS

    Chances are you can still get the same old bearing from an after market supplier.
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    #3
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    I actually heard that the new ones are better ?! But thats what i heard !!!!!!!
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    #4
    Registered ozarkdevil's Avatar
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    I am at a stand still with these new bearings, don't know if I should use them or not?
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    #5
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    They will work fine. We'll see how long they last.
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    #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozarkdevil View Post
    I am at a stand still with these new bearings, don't know if I should use them or not?
    They work fine,,,like i said they say that they are better since they are completley sealed.
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    #7
    Registered ozarkdevil's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input, I am going out to install them right now.
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    #8
    Registered Trim'd Up's Avatar
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    Just like U-joints. The sealed ones are better for people that don't maintain their equipment, but I am not one of those people.
    Last edited by Trim'd Up; 07-26-2009 at 10:18 AM.
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    #9
    Sponsor / Charter Member mbam's Avatar
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    Yep, that is the new bearing, have already had a bunch of calls on it. Should be just fine.
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    #10
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    Should be better than the old one. It's sealed and you shouldn't get water in it anyhow. People tend to overgrease things so I think it's better they are going to greaseless bearings. Now we need greaseless bearing buddies for people who think you should grease your hubs every time you use your trailer.
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    #11
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozarkdevil View Post
    I ordered a new set of gimbal bearings for a pair of XR Drives, the part # was for Mercury red dot bearing but I got a white dot bearing. All the measurements are the same on the new & the old bearing, the only difference is the new bearing is a sealed bearing and the old bearing is a greaseable bearing. I called the parts supplier who then called Mercury & Mercury said it is the new & improved replacement bearing. I might be a little old fashion but it seams to me that a greaseable bearing is the better choice. Does anyone have any info on this new bearing?
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    I don't have info but, I am with you I think grease able is better. Seems to be the trend now many bearings including cross bearings are sealed. I call BS

    Chances are you can still get the same old bearing from an after market supplier.
    Which aftermarket supplier are you thinking of?
    .
    Last edited by 2112; 10-26-2009 at 01:53 AM.
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
    Cause somebody has to!
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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2112 View Post
    +1



    Which aftermarket supplier are you thinking of?
    .
    I would call TIMKEN !!!!!!
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    #13
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Link Belt used to make them for Merc.



    Promarine may offer the aftermarket grease able one.
    Last edited by MOBILEMERCMAN; 10-26-2009 at 06:32 PM.
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    #14
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Jim,

    On the ITS, there is a long steel/aluminum sleeve that prevents me from threading the bearing puller flange onto the threaded rod on the inside of the boat to pull the broken gimbal bearing out. I read the promarine description and it sounds like they are suggesting I knock it inward then thread the puller flange onto the threaded rod and pull it out but again on the ITS there isn't much room at all between the bearing and that long tube/sleeve.

    If I knock it in, it looks like it will just get jammed in there.

    How do you get the old bearing out on ITS gimbals? Also, I assume you are just using the puller to pull the new one in from the inside of the boat?
    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #15
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    Take the drive off and from the outside !!!!!!!
    NOT THE INSIDE !!!!!!!!!!!
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    #16
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Scotty is correct. Pull the drive. The bearing will be staring at you.
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    #17
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Guys,

    The drive is off. I am looking at the bearing. My question is how do I get the plate/flange that pulls the bearing outward without knocking the bearing inward first?

    I cannot get the flange to the inside of the bearing from the inside of the boat due to the tube I was mentioning.

    I'd hate to just hook it with a wrecking bar and start jerking it.

    How do I get the bearing puller flange to the inside of the bearing? They need an expandable end piece like a wall molly to pass through and expand then pull the bearing back. At least on an ITS we do.
    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
    Cause somebody has to!
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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2112 View Post
    Guys,

    The drive is off. I am looking at the bearing. My question is how do I get the plate/flange that pulls the bearing outward without knocking the bearing inward first?

    I cannot get the flange to the inside of the bearing from the inside of the boat due to the tube I was mentioning.

    I'd hate to just hook it with a wrecking bar and start jerking it.

    How do I get the bearing puller flange to the inside of the bearing? They need an expandable end piece like a wall molly to pass through and expand then pull the bearing back. At least on an ITS we do.
    .
    What kind of puller do u have ????????

    I don't understand !

    U should not do anything to the inside of the boat or from the inside !!

    The 3 claws from the puller point outward ( u can turn them ) u stick it in the bearing ,,,clamp them down and ( that is why i like a slide hammer ) yank it out ..
    30 sec job !!
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    #19
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    To pull it a 3 jaw or an expanding colette tool is needed to remove it. It is all done from outside.. The drivers to install the bearing are different. I pm'd my number call me.
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    #20
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    To pull it a 3 jaw or an expanding colette tool is needed to remove it. It is all done from outside.. The drivers to install the bearing are different. I pm'd my number call me.
    Got it.

    I have the Mercury Marine "bearing puller kit" with more than a dozen different colletts to use but no 3 jaw or expandable unit.

    That explains it.


    Jim I will call tonight after my last patient.

    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
    Cause somebody has to!
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