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    Pole Barn Question
    #1
    Registered 89Mach1's Avatar
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    I'm looking into building a pole barn next spring and was curious about a couple things. For starters, the barn is going to be 32' x 40' and I'd like to have a full loft above it for living quarters. I DO NOT want to have support posts in the "barn" part to support beams for the floor joists above. Do any of you have something similar, and if so do you have posts or not and what did you if you don' have posts? I don't want to use attic trusses, so that idea is out. Any info and pics would be great! Thanks!

    Jay
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    #2
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    I believe "attic" trusses may be your best option. Not sure we're talking about the same thing though.

    For a 32 span, to get completely away from support, that is a long distance. If I were you, I'd go to a truss designer, Menard's may have one, and price it both ways before making a decision. It's gonna be expensive, and the difference in price may get you a much larger building with a normal "supported" in the center design.
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #3
    Registered drpete3's Avatar
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    NOt sure how your going to get around not using attic trusses with a span that far. Another Idea that just came to ming is calling the general. thats what they say on thier commercials. they are steel structure buildings. They may have somthing different to offer.
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    #4
    Charter Member Sydwayz's Avatar
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    You will be better off with a steel structure building to pull that off.
    Brian Tillett; Active Thunder Factory Representative
    wwwActiveThunderBoats.com
    brian(a)activethunderboats.com
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    #5
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    you have to support the roof somehow.....either trusses in the attic or support posts going to the floor......as posted above you might get it done in steel but it will be big $$ for that span.....
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    #6
    This is a great site to see a bunch of garage and building ideas, check it out.

    http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
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    #7
    Founding Member Buoy's Avatar
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    I have to agree, you're going to be much better off and more economical if you're going steel.
    "Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
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    #8
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    Cecil Pigg out of Alabama has some big span trusses
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    #9
    Need a little more info about the building. I work for a truss manufaturer in Iowa, so I may be able to get ya going in the right direction. First of all, is this going to be a 2 story type building? Meaning, walls, then floor system, then walls again, then roof? If that's the case, u can go with a floor truss that will clear spean the 32 feet. It would be aroung 24 inches deep, putting them on 16 inch centers.
    Also, why no attic trusses? Lots of options there as well.
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    #10
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    You are going to have to have some kind of support. As far as the pole barn idea, have you considered making it out of concrete blocks? Not that hard to do yourself and if you are worried about the loogs of poles in the middle of the barn, maybe you wouldn't mind a wall down the middle making 2 rooms and providing lots of support?
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    #11
    Registered insanity's Avatar
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    Go with a steel building, no problem spanning that distance. Then if you want an 'attic', build a steel mezzanine.
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Viper31 View Post
    This is a great site to see a bunch of garage and building ideas, check it out.

    http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

    that site can be a bigger time waster than any boat site!
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    #13
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JupiterSunsation View Post
    that site can be a bigger time waster than any boat site!
    Now that's a scary thought.......
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #14
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    #15
    Registered hotjava66's Avatar
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    it can be done but probably not as a pole building, would have to be stick built, steel, or block. that is if you want a true useable second story, i think with an attic style truss you are limited on load. i saw one a while back that was really neat. 40x80 open no posts, 16' ceiling on bottom level, top level was living quarters with with cathedral ceiling. had steel beams holding up top level, bottom level walls were split faced block, upper level half log sided. boats, sleds, cars toys downstairs, 3200 sq ft living upstairs. big $ though
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    #16
    If you're not a farmer than you will have to pull a building permit. In order to do that you will need a GC License. Some states do allow the property owners to pull a permit without a GC license. Also, I would suspect your state is currently following the IBC Code. These codes are much tougher than the old ones. Here's a rough estimate for a 1,280sf metal building.
    DIV 1- General Conditions 5k -10k (If you hire a GC.)
    DIV 2- Site 1k-2k
    DIV 3- Concrete 6k-8k
    DIV 4- Masonry None
    DIV 5- Metals (Structural Steel) None
    DIV 6-Woods & Plastics (Interior Framing) 5k
    DIV 7- Thermal & Moisture (Insualtion included in Metal Bldg)
    DIV 8- Doors & Windows (Roll up door (s)?) 3-6k
    DIV 9- Finishes (Drywall, Flooring Paint) 5-10k
    DIV 13- Metal Bldg 15-20sf = 20-25k
    DIV 15- Mechanical (Plumbing & HVAC) 12-15k
    DIV 16- Electrical 10k
    Total= 67k -91k

    Right now you are probably thinking WTF!!! And you are right. So I would start by contacting my local bldg. department to find out what their requiments are i.e. permits, stamped drawings, property set backs. Then I would contact 2-3 local GC's. Get them to provide you a basic building layout and cost breakdown that meets your criteria. :
    Last edited by Hard Charger; 01-04-2010 at 01:03 PM. Reason: technical
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Hard Charger View Post
    Total= 67k -91k
    Glad I don't live where you do!!

    60 x 40 with 20 ceilings, concrete pad with drains, vinyl siding to match house, 25 year shingles, 5" gutters, bathroom, hot water heater, electric every 10 feet, steel I beam with/including motor hoist, air compressor outlets every 20 feet including huge compressor in it's own shed outback to keep the noise down, vents for exhaust, fans, heat pump, surround sound, floor sealed and painted, custom drive stands, toilet paper in the bathroom, sodium lighting, mucho earth work before building, 80 x 60 asphalt driveway, etc for under $50K.

    Thanks for the breakdown- not saying it as you don't know what you are talking about by any means; just that is quite a bit more than in my area 20 miles south of DC.
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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarylandMark View Post
    Glad I don't live where you do!!

    60 x 40 with 20 ceilings, concrete pad with drains, vinyl siding to match house, 25 year shingles, 5" gutters, bathroom, hot water heater, electric every 10 feet, steel I beam with/including motor hoist, air compressor outlets every 20 feet including huge compressor in it's own shed outback to keep the noise down, vents for exhaust, fans, heat pump, surround sound, floor sealed and painted, custom drive stands, toilet paper in the bathroom, sodium lighting, mucho earth work before building, 80 x 60 asphalt driveway, etc for under $50K.

    Thanks for the breakdown- not saying it as you don't know what you are talking about by any means; just that is quite a bit more than in my area 20 miles south of DC.

    That sounds like a hull of a deal to me. Couldn't even touch your description for that money around here.
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    #19
    Registered drpete3's Avatar
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    I built a 40x60 pole barn w 10 ft walls and concrete slab w a fiber wood side wall and materials cost me 25K. Did the work myself.

    Was used for horeses. the ex took those so now I gotta huge barn for boats
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by pullmytrigger View Post
    you have to support the roof somehow.....either trusses in the attic or support posts going to the floor......as posted above you might get it done in steel but it will be big $$ for that span.....
    +1






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