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    #61
    Glad you got it figured out!!

    With the condensation, check it after you run...it might develop only when you're idling and everything cools down. As far as the kink, try to cut the hoses a little shorter to help out with the radius of the turn because at idle the low pressure could limit some water flow. If you need new hoses you can get them at most automotive stores, call SM for the part number... It's just a molded hose for a car..

    With the engines at idle i'd also feel around the tailpipe for hot-spots. If you don't have any hot spots the pressure isn't an issue.

    If for some reason you have hot spots it could be a few different things. One could be lack of water pressure from your raw water pump. Or even possibly the tails having a manufacturing defect where the inner/outer jackets are touching. This tends to happen a lot on brands X, Y and Z header tubes....

    I recently saw this happening on a few EMI systems. EMI covered my buddies cost for replacing the tails. They actually discolored pretty badly and had a spot on the inside of the pipe form where they were touching.

    I kinda doubt this is an issue for you but it's worth checking.
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    #62
    Founding Member Tony's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Ohio
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    1,775
    I used a taller brass fitting instead of the plastic fittings supplied with the exhaust. Its quite a sharp bend, even with shortened hoses. The tops of the ebows are hot to the touch at 750 rpm, at 1k they are instantly cold. So I know there is restriction at the jumpers. I'l change them in the near future.
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    #63
    The plastic fittings are used due to dissimilar metals, they used to use stainless. Over the years SM has done testing and concluded that they are the best to use.
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