Thats what floored me, why 5 and 6?? Tomorrow Im gonna back off the rocker nuts and leakdown the cylinders.
Thread: At wits end...what would Jim do?
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07-22-2009 12:00 AM
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07-22-2009 12:12 AM
Thanks for previous explanation. I know the are opposite. I was wondering which two cylinders join in the intake for the exhaust cross over. I don't know if his heads are blocked or have that provision. But it could be one leak crossing if they are the joining cylinders. Its probably 3-6 or4-5 though.
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07-22-2009 10:56 AMI chased the same problem with water in exaust. I found out in my case that on the hose the exaust would not get hot enough to burn off the condensation. After i ran the boat on the lake no condensation.
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07-22-2009 03:02 PM5 and 6 have a straight shot down when you look into the manifold.
Are you sure the tailpipe is sealed to the exhaust manifold? In addition to the gasket, Stainless Marine also also supplies you with a high-temp black RTV to put on there, it seals very well.
I once worked on a triple engine 45' sonic where due to an exhaust leak at the manifold/tailpipe joint on the center engine it reverted water back into the manifold. Those tailpipes were almost 5 ft long before the water entered the pipe. It was a humbling experience because I didn't think the water could revert back that far from an exhaust leak. So nowadays I don't rule anything out!Last edited by Geronimo36; 07-22-2009 at 03:08 PM.
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07-22-2009 03:47 PMThere's no water in the SM junction. It bypasses the connection with a hose.
Leakdown may not tell you what you're looking for- especially if your cracks are on the backside of the exhaust valve seat and in the bowl. You need to pressure test the cooling jackets.
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07-22-2009 04:01 PM
The heads are new.... right?
sure it's not condensation?
Pretty much seems like every other possibility was covered..35 Cigarette Mistress
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07-22-2009 05:00 PMAre you sure the tailpipe is sealed to the exhaust manifold? In addition to the gasket, Stainless Marine also also supplies you with a high-temp black RTV to put on there, it seals very well.
You need to pressure test the cooling jackets.Last edited by Tony; 07-23-2009 at 08:40 AM.
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07-22-2009 05:05 PM
3 more days, get er fixed
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07-22-2009 05:07 PM
Hmmm.. this is a tuff one...I am having a hard time coming up with suggestions...
35 Cigarette Mistress
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07-22-2009 05:35 PMWhen we're done with this, the reversion issue caused by leaks is intriguing me.....
Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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07-22-2009 07:15 PM
After the cooling pressure test I think its time to look back at the tailpieces and flappers. If it was just condensation I would expect both motors to show signs. I few drips is one thing . With puddles something must be different. Are all tailpieces the same? Can you swap them. Are the flappers closing on that side? Like Geronimo mentioned 5 and 6 have in common the bottom edge of the tail pieces points right at them. I have seen water dance up hill before with help of harmonic vibrations. Even as I watched it I couldn't believe it.
Just for conversation when an exhaust has a water leak it will, depending on how bad, promptly develop a miss at idle. If you let it go on its own it will drop the cylinder then another. If you advance the throttle to about 2500 it will clear it self out and run smooth again as if it was flooded with fuel.
If after you have checked everything you can check you could ramp it, put a load on it, build some temp, and see if it will idle with out developing a miss. One guy did mention his problem went away after it got warmed up. I personally like to know everything is perfect but, I would ramp it before I disassembled anything further than you have. If it will idle indefinitely once warmed idling in gear on the trailer take it for a ride.
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07-22-2009 08:09 PM
Did a compression test tonight for chits and giggles, 195 on all 8. looking back at the dry joint I didnt use a lot of silicone, basically enough to hold the gaskets in place. At this point Im guessing the culprit is less than a 100% seal at the dry joint, condensation with hose water, or a combination of the two. Im gonna put it back together with a liberal amount of silicone on both sides of the gasket and take it to the ramp.
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07-23-2009 08:55 AMGood luck with everything!!!
One last thing. I've found on the Stainless Marine's it's critical to make sure both mating surfaces are flat before tighening the v-clamp. If the end of the pipe is too high or too low it wont seal properly, no matter how much you tighten the v-clamp. That is one of my only complaints about the SM system.
When putting the pipes on for the first time I like to mock it up without the gasket and verify the flange on the pipe is level with the flange on the manifold. Again, if they're not flat you're going to have a hard time getting them to seal properly from what I've experienced, especially if you're running full length pipes thru the transom. On boats where you're connecting the pipe to a rubber hose you'll have some extra play but before tighening the v-clamp make sure it's all plumb.
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07-23-2009 09:32 AM
Tony, good luck!!! Our fingers, toes and whatever else we can cross are crossed hoping for good news.
Queen of Bammin'
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08-18-2009 09:30 AM
I thought I would breifly touch back on this for anyone who may happen to stumble across this thread while searching for solutions to a similar problem.
On the SM reversion issue: It appears that the culprit was a combination of condensation from cold well water and possibly less than a 100% seal at the riser manifold dry joint. I ran the boat in the water and later removed the risers and found condensation on the top half of the pipe in the elbow, everything else was dry.
The riser to manifold jumper hoses are slightly kinked which may or may not be why water isnt filling the top half of the jacket at the elbow.
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