Broken Drive Shaft?!?!

**Freeryd_99** · 07-13-2009 02:54 AM

Ok so...i think i broke my drive shaft, or something along those lines. Here's the best i can tell ya about what happend. But be warned, im NOT mechanically inclined in the least so just bare with me!!!

Launched boat, warmed up to temp, heading down lake. 8-12inches of chop, into wind so not rough. about 1mile into running, made large sweeping turn and headed back to marina. at about 70mph, and 5,000rpm all of a sudden the boat slowed instantly, rpms went up, audible alarm sounded for rev limiter, and engine screamed. It acted as if it came outta gear all of a sudden! I went to neutral, came offf throttle completely and let everything settle. When i gathered my thoughts, i attempted to take off again. As i first put it into gear, everything seemed fine. She took right off at idle speed. As soon as i applied ANY throttle, it reved up like it was in neutral again!
We checked the prop and everything seemed good. tried a time or 2 more with the same results. So, we left it at idle and limped back to the launch. Once on the trailer we pulled the prop and hub. With the opinions of several ppl around we decided the hub went bad. We pressed out the old, and installed a new one. Put it back into the lake....SAME RESULTS!

That brings you all up to currently! Now what??? Is there anyway i can determine WHAT went wrong for 100% certain without having to pull my drive and motor? We assume it's the splines on the shaft, going into the coupler. Do you agree? Im looking for ANY and ALL input here guys! We'ver got the tools, and i've got ppl around with the ability to fix the problem, we're just hoping to as closely diagnose this problem as we can before really tearing everythng apart!

2002 Baja Outlaw
496 Mag HO
Bravo I
23p Mirage 3-blade

(Need anymore info?)

**Freeryd_99** · 07-13-2009 02:58 AM

Ok so...i think i broke my drive shaft, or something along those lines. Here's the best i can tell ya about what happend. But be warned, im NOT mechanically inclined in the least so just bare with me!!!

Launched boat, warmed up to temp, heading down lake. 8-12inches of chop, into wind so not rough. about 1mile into running, made large sweeping turn and headed back to marina. at about 70mph, and 5,000rpm all of a sudden the boat slowed instantly, rpms went up, audible alarm sounded for rev limiter, and engine screamed. It acted as if it came outta gear all of a sudden! I went to neutral, came offf throttle completely and let everything settle. When i gathered my thoughts, i attempted to take off again. As i first put it into gear, everything seemed fine. She took right off at idle speed. As soon as i applied ANY throttle, it reved up like it was in neutral again!
We checked the prop and everything seemed good. tried a time or 2 more with the same results. So, we left it at idle and limped back to the launch. Once on the trailer we pulled the prop and hub. With the opinions of several ppl around we decided the hub went bad. We pressed out the old, and installed a new one. Put it back into the lake....SAME RESULTS!

That brings you all up to currently! Now what??? Is there anyway i can determine WHAT went wrong for 100% certain without having to pull my drive and motor? We assume it's the splines on the shaft, going into the coupler. Do you agree? Im looking for ANY and ALL input here guys! We'ver got the tools, and i've got ppl around with the ability to fix the problem, we're just hoping to as closely diagnose this problem as we can before really tearing everythng apart!

2002 Baja Outlaw
496 Mag HO
Bravo I
23p Mirage 3-blade

(Need anymore info?)

**TMS1155** · 07-13-2009 04:11 AM

Sounds like coupler is spun.

**PatriYacht** · 07-13-2009 07:14 AM

Agree, check coupler.

**95south** · 07-13-2009 07:19 AM

my friend just went thru the same situation.
it was the upper clutch assembly

good luck with the repair

**Clustergear** · 07-13-2009 07:22 AM

If the boat will move forward at idle but slips when rpm's come up. Maybe the coupler, take a flash light and look down behind motor and see if the are any metel shaving where the input shaft from drive goes in the back of motor. If you can't see back there try sticking finger in ( like you use to play stink finger) to check for metal shavings and black rubber stuff. Some times a you can see in there with a flashlight and mirror. If so pull drive and look inside. If something went in drive pull bottom vent plug after sitting all night there will properbly be lots of metal on magnet.

**glassdave** · 07-13-2009 07:43 AM

+1 on the coupler.

**fund razor** · 07-13-2009 07:50 AM

Hi Bill. That sucks.
Buy a gasket kit and pull the drive. Maybe a buddy will help, it's heavy. Wood under the skeg can be your friend.
Inspect the inside of the coupler and the outside of the spline. If one is worn, the other is too. Square teeth that have become triangles/pointy is your sign. If it is the coupler and/or spline I would see if you can bolt on a new coupler with the engine in. Meanwhile I would have a drive guy replace the spline at the U joint. He can also check the drive. If you haven't changed your bellows in a while.... (or ever) now is the time. Either confirm the alignment yourself using the alignment tool or have it done. Hopefully the coupler can be replaced without an R and R of the engine.

**Airpacker** · 07-13-2009 08:10 AM

Sounds like someone is pulling a motor out soon. Coupler let loose is my bet as well.

**Freeryd_99** · 07-13-2009 11:22 AM

ok....so it sounds like the coupler is the common concensus! That goes along with about 5 other opinions from ppl up here as well. And all i got to say about that is...DAMN!

I've got access to a drive stand, so that will help. But i'm still trying to figure out how i'm gonna pull that motor out? You gotta have something that reaches pretty dang high in the air for that! I've got a motor stand for once its out, but i just gotta get it there.

So assuming you guys are right and this is the problem. How much am i looking at for repairs if we do it ourselves?
Thanks a million guys!

**MOBILEMERCMAN** · 07-13-2009 11:33 AM

You must pull engine to change coupler. No way around it. The splines on the coupler are aluminum and the shaft on drive is steel. There is little reason to change the input steel part. The aluminum fails from lack of grease. It needs to be greased every season or 50 hrs. New couplers have a grease fitting on them. It is a PITA to reach it but, this is the alternative. If the rubber part failed you would smell burning rubber. It fails from impact or mis alignment.

When you pull drives and see the spline grease is dried up and you notice silver / black sludge in the input spline that is your coupler wearing.

Before you do anything get the boat on the trailer. Put it in gear with engine off and stand on the prop. If it turns One of three things it could be. the coupler , the prop hub, the clutch gear in drive. Typically if the drive fails it will not allow you to idle home.

**drpete3** · 07-13-2009 12:02 PM

I was with Bill and when the boat was on the trailer and he puts it in gear the prop will catch when in forward but in reverse it was spinning.

**Geronimo36** · 07-13-2009 12:12 PM

Look behind the engine down towards the coupler. If you see metal shavings all over the place or melted rubber stuck on stuff your coupler is shot.

Good news is if that's what it is it's an easy fix and you should be up in running in a half day and about $500 if you pay someone to do it.. Maybe $200 higher (parts) if you have a shop do it cause they usually charge about $500 to R&R the engine.

**Clustergear** · 07-13-2009 12:19 PM

if you don't have a place to pull engine, see if one of your freinds has acess to a tow truck most of them have extending booms now a days. Use to pull motor by myself back the truck up to boat and work the boom levers with my foot.

**Blue Oval** · 07-13-2009 12:40 PM

I think I know a guy with a tow truck!

**blackhawk** · 07-13-2009 12:55 PM

I agree it's probably the coupler. BUT I would try another prop to make sure there wasn't a problem with the new hub installed. Chances are very slim but I would want to know 100% before I yanked the motor. I've had couplers and prop hubs go and they acted identical. Could idle but applied throttle and free revved like in neutral.

**fund razor** · 07-13-2009 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN

You must pull engine to change coupler. No way around it.

That's a bummer.

**Freeryd_99** · 07-13-2009 01:37 PM

I know a guy with a tow truck to!!! haha. Guess that's what we're doing then! Pick a time Bob...it's YOUR truck. I've got the barn with 16ft rafters so we got plenty of clearance. I'm swinging in to Dry Harbour today on my way past, will talk to Tim and get his opinion as well.
Keep the advice coming guys! We're gonna need all we can get!

**Geronimo36** · 07-13-2009 02:43 PM

You don't even need to pull the engine all the way out of the boat. As a matter of fact I did one once and didn't completely unhook all the wiring/hoses. You just need to go high enough and far enough forward so you can gain access to the rear of the engine with an impact gun so you can R&R the bellhousing and coupler...

If you are re-using the coupler bolts, be sure to use red loctite. If you get a new coupler, look at the threads, it should already have sealer on them.

**MOBILEMERCMAN** · 07-13-2009 03:08 PM

Frank, Once it is loose and on the hook he might as well get it clear of the boat. Dump the oil, check bilge pump and float switch. Exhaust flappers in down tubes if he has them.

There is usually no room to move it forward in a Baja. The 20 minutes you may save is offset by aggravation of working in a tight area.

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