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    New PPG paint lifting??
    #1
    Registered DONZI's Avatar
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    Unhappy
    Any suggestions ??
    Started with original gelcoat.
    Prep was- wax/degrease, DA w/320, Scotchbrite grey w/detergent then powerwash.Tacked before spraying also.

    Then Bullydog adhesion promoter, PPG Base coat Deltron 2000 then Concept 2021 Clear.
    One very small area lifted/crackled. I thought caused by the pinstripe enamel bleeding off.

    Now the problem.
    I sanded it out approximatley hitting basecoat level and lower then tried primer, same result.Stripping out further and further with the same result. Even if i wipe a small amount of Lacquer thinner over the repair you can see the blistering over the basecoat area only??The whole area is not blistering.Only where i'm trying to cover sanded out basecoat !
    I tried DP90LF Primer also besides Bulldog and they both will lift ?
    Is it possible there is a way of sealing this ??
    I hate to have to strip this whole section to bare.
    Thanks for any input !
    Last edited by DONZI; 06-28-2009 at 08:08 PM.
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    #2
    I dont have it in my shop to see. But I am guessing you mean it is fish eyeing or bubbling, or crazing.. Usually a sign of: Poor adhesion from surface contaminants, poorly prepped surfaces, incompatable chemicals and or moisture in the spray line. It could be other issues as well, but these are some of the most common.. Jamie / Lakeside
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    #3
    Contributor Steve 1's Avatar
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    The finial wash should be hose water and it should sheet on the surface it will show everything !! Soaps and washes work to cover/Spread contamination sometimes.
    Slippery when wet. PODLESS TUNNEL www.cheetahcat.com ,Repairs, Modifications and Truing Cheap reliable speed.
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    #4
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    is the lifting on just the area where the stripe was? Sounds like that was what originally lifted and now you may be having some lifting of the basecoat at the feathered area. I have been able to get around this by dusting the repair with dry coats till covered then hit it with the clear. Use a fast reducer in the color as well and as said maybe try a water borne primer/sealer.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #5
    Registered DONZI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glassdave View Post
    is the lifting on just the area where the stripe was? Sounds like that was what originally lifted and now you may be having some lifting of the basecoat at the feathered area. I have been able to get around this by dusting the repair with dry coats till covered then hit it with the clear. Use a fast reducer in the color as well and as said maybe try a water borne primer/sealer.
    Exactly !
    Thanks again Dave. I started putting dry coats on and it seems to be curing o.k.
    Can i go to a wet primer again to level off after i have acheived a decent primer base ?
    Then a couple wet basecoats ?

    1st pic of edges that were lifting after sanding out again.
    2nd pic. of dry primer dust applied.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Boat parts 2 111.jpg   Boat parts 2 110.jpg  
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    #6
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    you should be able to but i would still go easy and give plenty of flash off time between coats. You really done need to wet the base to much those usually are best with regular even coats.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #7
    Registered DONZI's Avatar
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    Thanks again Dave !
    This is my 1st paint job and i really appreciate the help. I've followed your basic paint post from the beginning.
    I was able to put a good coat of primer on and sand with 400,then 2 coats base and 2 wet clear today. I'll sand with 1200,1500 and buff when ready.
    Next will be the same battle with the white side of pinstripe.
    Pardon the weird reflections in photo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Boat parts 2 112.jpg  
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    #8
    Like previously stated if the boats not in front of the painters face it can be real hard to diagnose a problem.. Sounds as if you got it taken care of..

    I will add to what Dave already said & say that "Most" of the time "if" it was prepped right any lifting in small areas, edges , ect.. can be prevented by not wetting up base to much (which is a common problem) & if you do have an issue its important to let it dry good , lightly hit it with some fine paper (grit depending on the color , surface ect..) & then dusting on some light coats with a somewhat faster reducer & plenty of flash time between coats.. However when it comes to this issue with heavy metalics there is an art to the balance of reducer temps, air pressure , "dusting" , ect..ect..

    Like I said it looks as if you got it under control.. These boards are more times than not great for advise... I don't get in this section to often either here or next door, but from time to time I will click on a thread & I often see good advise & from time to time pick up a tip or two myself..
    I always say what makes a good painter besides natural talent is not only "painting ability , knowledge & guru-ness , ect.." but being able to get your butt out of trouble when this kind of stuff happens b/c I don't care Who you are when you pick up a paint gun things do happen now & then..

    Lastly as Lakeside/Jamie was saying there are many variables to this stuff !!

    Now back to the booth to shoot clear over some properly flashed base.. See my theory is that these forums often help us maintain proper flash time , as long as its not certain sealers, or Kandy & we have browsed to long !! Lol..

    Later guys & gals, Scott
    Last edited by LittleDcsRodShop; 07-02-2009 at 06:21 PM.
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