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    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    Those still look to be good acceleration numbers even with the drives 3" higher. How deep is your X?
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Presently I am -3 on that test. The plan is to raise to that height.

    I measured this evening.

    I got :

    4 1/2"inches from top of flame arrester to hatch.
    33" centers. Gils
    1/4" between manifolds
    My outside mounts rise 6" of stringers.
    Center stringer 18" height. Mounts stick up 1 1/4 " Perfect.
    29 1/2"between stringers.
    Engines are 52" long
    2 1/4" tailpiece clearance to inside flange.
    Wedges under tail piece at gasket surface. I can raise engine and remove wedge, Perfect.
    3" to radius at rub rail on transom.

    Couldn't be easier to raise drives. Little parts needed. Bunch of labor. I will see exactly how much time.
    Last edited by MOBILEMERCMAN; 10-04-2012 at 10:50 PM.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    I might just pull engines and strip the transom tomorrow.
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    Founding Member Buoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    Presently I am -3 on that test. The plan is to raise to that height.

    I measured this evening.

    I got :

    4 1/2"inches from top of flame arrester to hatch.
    33" centers. Gils
    1/4" between manifolds
    My outside mounts rise 6" of stringers.
    Center stringer 18" height. Mounts stick up 1 1/4 " Perfect.
    29 1/2"between stringers.
    Engines are 52" long
    2 1/4" tailpiece clearance to inside flange.
    Wedges under tail piece at gasket surface. I can raise engine and remove wedge, Perfect.
    3" to radius at rub rail on transom.

    Couldn't be easier to raise drives. Little parts needed. Bunch of labor. I will see exactly how much time.
    You need taller flame arresters, and an acrobat to change spark plugs.

    Insert smiley here
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buoy View Post
    You need taller flame arresters, and an acrobat to change spark plugs.

    Insert smiley here
    Its actually pretty easy to work on.

    I have the tall ones already.

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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Need to find out what the closest center is for headers.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Gonna send my steering back to Latham for re chrome and service, new hoses and such.
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    Charter Member old377guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    Gonna send my steering back to Latham for re chrome and service, new hoses and such.
    my, but you're an ambitious young man
    People we meet in life are either a Blessing or a Lesson
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Ready to box and label.

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    is it margarita time yet? I'll be right over...
    Boat-less...
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Engines out, exhaust off, peeked in a valve cover to see whats there.

    Quick clean while Griswald and I drank our margaritas.

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    I'll clean some more tomorrow, stand the engines up right, pull some parts off. Heads and trannies to start.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Hammer time.

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    Went well, 2 people 30 minutes. 20 lb mall in my hand.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Been a while. Progress is slow and steady. Kinda..

    Cleaning parts
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    It took a long time with much patience to remove cork gasket without damaging original paint below.

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    studs I had hammered on came right out with little effort.

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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Needed to be cleaned. Have new gaskets and screws to re attach.

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    Tabs came off as easily as can be expected. Didn't even scratch the paint.

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    There is corroded aluminum where the gasket held moisture. It appears the mointure came from inside the boat. The cavity where the trim lines go thru the assembly holds water. I think if that water was allowed to drain there would have been no corrosion. Over all they are in great shape. The pins and bushings are tight and the gimble ring has not dropped.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Getting the sealant off without damaging the paint will take some effort. Chances are good I will remove the pins and paint as necessary.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Need to cover and prepare the boat for grinding.
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Still need to decide whether or not to relocate the steering mount location. They are pretty close to where they need to be. The where actually a little high for the previous set up.
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    Charter Member old377guy's Avatar
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    love to see this stuff, Jim. Did you fab your own steering mount plates on the drives?
    People we meet in life are either a Blessing or a Lesson
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    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    No, the ones shown above are latham. The boat was original built with Latham add on steering. A couple years later Latham created a rear mount plate for TRS. I am going to use them. The plates and clevis joints will be one of few actual up dates. The original rod ends on the rams and tie bar were wore out. I wish to keep the boat as close to "as it left the factory" as possible.
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