I'm doing the full re-rig on the 24' Pantera.
30 year old wiring makes me uncomfortable, and as long as I've come as far as I have, might as well go all the way.
- Where do I buy wire to replace?
I want to make sure that the wire is color coded correctly to what is being used, and proper gauge.
- Throttle/Shift/Trim indicator cables.
- Hydraulics for steering/engine and tab trim.
Just want to replace hoses and fittings.
Any suggestions/tips/tricks?
Thread: Full Re-Rig, where to buy??
Results 1 to 20 of 24
Hybrid View
-
04-30-2009 06:46 PM"Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
04-30-2009 06:48 PM
I found this list of color codes someplace else for the wiring.
"Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
-
04-30-2009 07:12 PM
I pulled this from some posts in Tech on "the other" site.
Posts were circa '04-'05 from some reputable sources.
Also pulled this http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page101.html
If incorrect, point me in the right direction. I'll delete if necessary, don't want to have bad info floating around."Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
04-30-2009 07:15 PM
Bestboatwire is temp closed due to supplier issues - at least that is what the header on there site is reading.
"Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
04-30-2009 07:09 PMHere's a good source for wire. http://www.bestboatwire.com/ Morse cables are pretty much what they are- everyone has them. For hydraulics, find a local Aeroquip or Parker distributor and have them make up what you need. They can order stainless fittings if you feel you need them. That route is easier and cheaper than the fittings you can self-install without a crinp press.
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
04-30-2009 07:17 PMIt looks like the newest one.
For a DIY, I'd label rather than color-code. You'll end up buying a bunch of wire you don't need if you code it. You can get great labelling tools and shrink-wrap them on and always know what wire is what.
-
04-30-2009 07:24 PM
Good call.
I used buy stuff like that for all the equipment we had at my last job.
Any suggestions on basic color coding?
Any standards I should be following?
I know Black is ground, Red is hot, but anything else that would be considered standards for 12v wiring?
I'm planning on basically running a main +/- feed to the dash, and then breakers off that.
Obviously, this isn't going to be too complicated of a wiring system on a 30 yr old boat with basic rigging."Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Posts
- 23
04-30-2009 07:32 PM[QUOTE=Chris;207251]It looks like the newest one.
For a DIY, I'd label rather than color-code. You'll end up buying a bunch of wire you don't need if you code it. You can get great labelling tools and shrink-wrap them on and always know what wire is what.[/QUOTE
Your on the right track. How about hot stamped wire with the device or usage right on the insulation? i.e. port bilge blower star bilge blower
Use some basic colors for designation of the circuit use. RED for battery voltage + WHITE for ignition voltage + BLACK for all grounds
You get the picture. Put together a list of wires with the following:
gage-----length-----color------insulation imprint
All wire to be stranded copper, Delphi XLPE Thin Wall SAE J1128 Type TXL
I will quote you the cost per foot for each gage listed.
-
-
04-30-2009 07:36 PM
Are you saying that the wire would be stamped all down it's length with the designation of it's function?
Hmmm. That could be really cool for any troubleshooting down the road."Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
-
-
-
04-30-2009 07:41 PM
So... is he saying that the same word would be printed over and over again all the way down the wire?
Ok Tim, you go.
-
04-30-2009 07:48 PM
You either type faster, or have a faster connection.
I'm guessing a combination of both.
I really like that idea though.
That would be pretty slick."Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
-
04-30-2009 07:51 PM
Hot stamped. Not printed. Probably better. Ink would come off over time.
-
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Posts
- 23
05-01-2009 07:52 PMRepeated the entire length of the wire run. Hot foil stamped (no ink). On the wire material: Yes, you are right on the SAE gage. Simply design your wire circuits around your peak load requirements. Yes, tinned is better. But only if you have not properly installed your terminals and protected the termination point. Therefore, liberal use of dual wall shrink tube. Look at it this way, even the finest auto manufacturers use SAE wire under the hoods of some very expensive vehicles. They follow strict manufacture and installation procedures. Can you say QS9000?
-
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 4,796
04-30-2009 08:10 PMSAE wire is not marine grade. It's 12% smaller per gauge. So 12 AWG is going to be roughly equivalent to 10 SAE. And you want tinned conductor and shrunk insulation to keep corrosion down.
-
04-30-2009 09:03 PM
http://www.cpperformance.com/SearchR...CategoryID=109 Dell city wire has the rest of the stuff like brazed barrel wire ends and shrink rap with the glue......cheep
beer is food