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    Swivel Seal Leaking
    #1
    Charter Member Seafordguy's Avatar
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    I'm going to be pulling the motors in a few weeks to stop a leak through my transom assembly that is coming in through the swivel seal. I have a Mercruiser Manual, but wanted to get some first hand knowledge from you guys.

    In the links below - Can someone help me understand exactly how the upper portion works with a simple discussion of how these two diagrams "interact", and exactly what I will need to fix it. I assume the parts I need are #'s 4,5,6 in the GIMBAL HOUSING parts fiche.

    My assumption is that the steering swivel lever runs up through the seal (#5) then through the larger bushing (#6), then through the smaller bushing pictured (#4).

    I have external steering, and don't have the stock trim indicators (I have the kind that are saddled to the trim ram).

    Also any thoughts on what else I will need to keep this project moving would be appreciated. I know I need the hinge pin tool, and i believe the special fitting for removing the water hose that runs through the assembly.

    I already have an alignment tool, and the necessary "stuff" for bellows replacement

    Also - can someone make a recommendation on where to buy the parts from. I'm tired of going to my local place where the people aren't knowledgeable, and the prices are sky high.

    I appreciate the help.....

    http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...GIMBAL+HOUSING

    http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...STEERING+LEVER
    Last edited by Seafordguy; 04-02-2009 at 10:10 AM.
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    #2
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Seafordguy. I suggest you read the gimble ring worn thread too. There is much overlap in that conversation. The seal rides on the swivel . If it is loose as they some times come out of their position and just sit on swivel. I suggest you thoroughly assess the situation before you dis assemble. See if the seal is loose in the gap at top of gimble ring. Check gap at lower pivot and and check for slop in all directions with drive off. It seems likely the gimble ring may have settled and contributed to seal failure. it may how ever just be a rusted swivel surface. I doubt that it is that easy.

    Read the other thread because all the labor overlaps. There are a few ways to go about repairing.
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    #3
    Charter Member Seafordguy's Avatar
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    Yeah - I read that one this morning. When I had the drives off a few months ago for new bellows and new gimbal bearings I didn't notice any slop. At the end of the season I pulled a big chunk of rusted washer/seal out from where it was protruding out from the gap at the top of the gimbal ring - boat never went back in after that.

    I looked at the Bender Method, and the Merc method but kind of figured by the time I did the labor involved for those it was easier to just pull the engines out.

    Thanks for your help here....
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    #4
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    The only disadvantage to taking the assembly off for to repair is it is harder to determine what is loose when it is not mounted. Check and plan approach before you take it off.
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    #5
    Charter Member Seafordguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    The only disadvantage to taking the assembly off for to repair is it is harder to determine what is loose when it is not mounted. Check and plan approach before you take it off.
    Will do - thanks.

    Any special tools other than the ones I listed that I need to have on hand so I don't slow up progress???
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    #6
    If you're taking it apart you may as well replace all the bushings in the ring/helmet and upper/lower pivot pins along witht the fiber washers since they're really cheap and when you're done the assembly is rebuilt. Be careful hammering out the lower pin.. they tend to freeze up from salt and if you hammer too hard you can/will crack the housing (been there done that).

    The only issue you might run into is if the upper pivot pin is worn... You can have it machined and bushed but if not you need to buy a new one to the tune of $200+ from Merc.

    You will also need a bushing puller for the small upper bushing in the transom assembly. Snap-On makes the tool but I don't recall the number.. The lower bushing in the upper part of the housing you can get away with removing and installing with a punch the right size socket to hammer it in with if you don't have any of the tools. Also, the bushings can be pressed into the ring/helmet with a socket and press.. Merc makes all the tools for this but you can get away without them... PS, don't tell Merc. I said that!

    I like doing them off the boat if possible and as Jimmy said, check for play before digging in!!! I ususally check the play while the drive is on the boat by lifting it up and down.
    Last edited by Geronimo36; 04-02-2009 at 11:19 AM.
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    #7
    Registered BDiggity's Avatar
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    Good luck SFG. By the time you get your second one done you should have a good idea on how to do it right in order to fix mine.
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