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    #41
    Certainly gain access to the upper swivel pin nut and steering lever bolt by whatever means makes you comfortable. Just wanted knot 4 me to know that there is a method to refurbish the gimbal rings instead of replacement, depends on the budget. I also like the stainless upper swivel pin. Much more functional than the Merc one. Also, Bender's pin is $152, Merc's is ~$333 list or ~$300 online.
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    #42
    Mercman,

    Heard there are snow flurries in Austin today??
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    #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderstruck View Post
    The gimbals can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of even used stuff and a heck of a lot less work than pulling the motors and transom assemblies. Look at www.jrmarine.com and call Ron Bender. He can weld up and CNC the upper swivel area and the side pins. He has a stainless upper swivel shaft that is top notch and all the parts needed.

    He has a kit that gives you a template to drill out the back of the transom assbly with special cut down wrenches to gain access to and remove the swivel shaft nut and the steering lever bolt. Much easier than the Merc kit and has a nice stainless plate to cover the hole. Ron is great to work with and is available by cell phone for questions/problems.

    I refurbished both gimbal rings, new swivel shafts, gimbal and shift bellows, new shift cables, new steering levers all for <$2,000 for both sides.

    PM me and we can discuss if desired.

    Before the JR Marine rebuild:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEC9jtJ3KFg
    Thanks for the info, Thunder. I'm aware of this method for repair along with the Merc method with the threaded pipe plugs. The owner prefers to pull the motors as would I if it was my personal boat. Not saying one method is better than any other. Comes down to personal preference. I've been sending the owner links to the 540 short block ad that KEPP has been running. Heck, if you're going to pull the motors to make a gimbal ring repair might as well upgrade those bottom ends while you are at it!
    Last edited by Knot 4 Me; 04-02-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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    #44
    Charter Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Georgetown, TX
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    426
    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderstruck View Post
    Mercman,

    Heard there are snow flurries in Austin today??

    Nope..........just W Texas dust.


    p.s. Jim repaired my boat last year the way he is describing. He worked so hard that I felt sorry for him and drank all his margaritas!
    Boat-less...
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    #45
    Registered Quinlan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tulsa GLOC
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    355
    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    First the up and down is set by the nut on the upper swivel shaft inside the boat. Usually when the distance increases and the ring falls it is from corrosion on the ring. Generally you need to remove the assy or cut the access holes to tighten. The clearance is something like .025. Maybe less I would have to look it up.

    Second the hinge pins should have no play. Slight side to side parallel to pins only. None in and or out up or down.

    The u -bolt torque is light at 23-25 lbs. That wont fix it.

    When the ring settles it tends to mis align the cross bearings and adds a side load to the gimble and input bearings. When the hinge pins wobble loose a bell housing { the part the drive boats to } failure is immanent. I am sure you have heard the stories of drives breaking off and hanging by cables.
    I would be most concerned about the hinge pins.

    If your transom assemblies need major repair buying new assemblies are worth considering. They show up priced right from time to time



    I have serious play in the gimbles at the hinge pin and top shaft as you guys are discussing. Looks like gimbles are on the list but the question is how to tell if the transom assmblies need replaced also?

    Boat in T/S gun w Stelling boxes, so I dont THINK in need to pull motors to replace these but what do you guys think? Any advice would be great.

    Quinlan
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