On my 402, the rubrail screws tend to back out after a hard run. I also have a leak that I believe it coming from the rubrail.
I was thinking of removing the rubrail, and filling in all the screw holes. The rubrail was replaced, and I am guessing the old holes may not have been filled. Was also wondering if injecting 5200, plexus, or some other type of adhesive into the deck joint would be a good idea to stiffen/seal things up? Any thoughts on this??
Results 1 to 14 of 14
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03-19-2009 02:17 PM
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03-19-2009 02:22 PM
The best fix for this problem is to reglue the deck joint or better yet glass it together from the inside. I put screws and nylock nuts on mine and has not come loose yet.
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03-19-2009 02:26 PM
Scott, you have or had a 402 Formula. Was this an issue on yours as well? Glassing would be great, but I imagine pretty labor intensive removing all the trim and uphostery to access the joint. Altough i assume would have to do this in order to access the backside for thru bolting. Cant I just squirt some elmers glue in there??
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03-19-2009 02:33 PM
My Scorpion use to do the same thing, my friends use to tease me because i kept a phillips screwdriver in the cup holder on the helm. I am guessing you have the extruded aluminum rubrail? That is usually a big cause of the problem. I switched to a vinyl rail and they hardly ever came loose again. About the only way to stop it is through bolt it with nylocks like Scott suggested.
Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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03-19-2009 02:33 PM
You could undo all screws as much as possible, clean the joint real good. Use 5200 to reglue then use it on all the screws as you put them in. Very messy job nomatter how you do it.
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03-19-2009 02:37 PM
I may try that. As for any unused old holes, is 5200 good enough, or should i marine tex or epoxy them? My rubrail is vinyl dave. Maybe go with some larger screws, I think the ones on there are #10, I'd have to double check.
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03-19-2009 02:45 PM
if the holes are starting to get worn another trick is to dip hardwood toothpicks in epoxy and break the off in the hole. Let them cure for several days before running the screws back in, this tightens them up sometimes.
Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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03-19-2009 02:53 PM
Very neat trick Dave.
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03-19-2009 03:05 PM
trick is making sure the epoxy is fully cured. It takes a few days, longer if its cool. Epoxy stays soft longer.
Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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03-19-2009 03:13 PM
Dave, are we talking about the toothpicks you get at sizzler, or something special?
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03-19-2009 03:50 PM
DO NOT USE 5200 !!!!!!!
I have glass at the shop,,,, well dab some epoxy in the bad holes and redrill.
Or epoxy in some dollrod ( tooth picks big brother )
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03-19-2009 03:57 PM
Last edited by glassdave; 03-19-2009 at 04:00 PM.
Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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03-19-2009 05:04 PM
Toothpics sound more affordable than dowel rods! haha Im sure after a nite out with our crew, we could accumulate 100 of them easily!!!!!
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04-11-2009 08:10 PM
Golf tees work great too! In my line of work (trim carpenter) after the painters put all the doors back on they tend to strip out a lot of the screw holes on the hinges, which makes doors close sloppy. I take golf tees, dab some glue on them and break them off in the screw holes and BAM, problem solved!