Galvanizing

**2112** · 10-11-2008 02:33 PM

Anyone here galvanized a non galvanizing trailer?

I have a steel Myco that I can strip and galvanize for about $5K. I love the trailer and think that is a lot better proposition than a new aluminum trailer which expect to be around $18K.

Just wondering if anyone has done this and might have some do's and don'ts?

**BY U BOY** · 10-11-2008 04:41 PM

why not just have it blasted and painted?

You can hit it with a zinc primer,epoxy mid coat then a top coat that would be a lot cheaper than a new trailer and would last a long time.

There are plenty of systems that you can use.
Direct to metal OEM paints ETC.

If it were me which it will be this winter

I would go with the zinc,epoxy and top.Plenty of protection from the sun and salt.There is a reason its used on oil rigs. If you want to go this route let me know I may be able to get the paint at a discount for you,depending on what part of the country you are in.

**2112** · 10-12-2008 01:24 AM

The factory paint is holding up pretty nice. The only rust I am getting is coming out of a weld on the optional decorative rail that sits on the c channel. Water can get in and it drains for hours out the little pin hole.

Just thought I would make some breather holes in the rail so the galvanizing zinc could get inside the rails and have a trailer that can last a long time.

BTW will paint stick to galvanizing? (I know you said primer)

**BY U BOY** · 10-12-2008 02:53 AM

Originally Posted by 2112

The factory paint is holding up pretty nice. The only rust I am getting is coming out of a weld on the optional decorative rail that sits on the c channel. Water can get in and it drains for hours out the little pin hole.

Just thought I would make some breather holes in the rail so the galvanizing zinc could get inside the rails and have a trailer that can last a long time.

BTW will paint stick to galvanizing? (I know you said primer)

most paints will not stick to galv... Some will but these are not the type of coatings I would use to protect your trailer.

**Buoy** · 10-12-2008 09:45 AM

Why not just have the openings in the trailer welded closed and have all the tube pressurized. I'm no expert, but I do recall reading about that somewhere.

**Chris** · 10-13-2008 12:21 PM

I have equipment that is used for servicing salt spreaders. They get more salt in a day than a trailer would in a lifetime. We overcoat the factory finish with Rustoleum 9100 over top of a product called Chassis Saver. The stuff lasts for years and holds a shine very well. Galvanizing works but it looks like hell. Even painted.

**2112** · 10-13-2008 12:37 PM

To clarify, Chasis Saver on top of factory paint, then 9100 on top of that?

The trailer still looks great. Is chasis saver spendy? I could fill my rail (again decorative) with that if it is not a fortune.

Is this the kind of product that requires a ventilated hood while applying? Is 9100 ugly? I guess it can't be uglier than galvanizing.

**Chris** · 10-13-2008 12:46 PM

Yes, chassis saver over the original paint. It sprays nicely. Rustoleum 9100 is their high-performance epoxy. We roll it onto machinery and you'd swear it was sprayed. It flows out so nicely, I painted my front porch floor with it. (hard white pine T&G) It's easily as tough as Imron. Shines nicer than Imron Industrial and just about the same as their automotive (5.0) for substantially less dough.

Chassis Saver is manufactured by a company called Magnet Paints. It's about $65 a gallon and that should cover the whole trailker unless you're spraying with non-HVLP. I like to get the topcoat on right away while the SC is still not 100% cured. I think that gives me better adhersion.

On the 9100, they make an activator that provides immersion capability but it kills about 15% of the original gloss. They also make an accelerated activator which I recommend- if nothing else than to keep the bugs & dust out of an 8 hour dry-to-touch. It trims 6 hrs off of it. Best price I've seen is at Grainger. Oh, yeah- it's full of cyanoacrylate- paint in a well-ventilated area or borrow a hood.

**2112** · 10-13-2008 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by Chris

Oh, yeah- it's full of cyanoacrylate- paint in a well-ventilated area or borrow a hood.

Super glue. It is like Turkey. It is in everything

Do you happen to know what Myco paints their trailers with?

BTW This sound a whole lot better than galvanizing

**Chris** · 10-13-2008 03:33 PM

It's a catalyzed urethane. Single-stage paint- everyone has it in their paint line. But it's only as good as the primer underneath. Another alternative you can use under the paint is a conversion coating. basically a chemical that reacts with the metal and seals it. Look at their safegard line- http://www.sanchem.com/

Galvanizing is very effective- but you have to get every spec of rust off of it first. and paint. That can be a chore. Remember, Myco fills all their welds and junctions so that would all have to be blasted out- and you'd be left with whatever was under there.

**Wardey** · 10-16-2008 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by Buoy

Why not just have the openings in the trailer welded closed and have all the tube pressurized. I'm no expert, but I do recall reading about that somewhere.

You have to let the tubing drain / breath. Otherwise it will fill with condesation and rust from the inside out. Dave

**stecz20** · 10-26-2008 11:35 PM

Originally Posted by Wardey

You have to let the tubing drain / breath. Otherwise it will fill with condesation and rust from the inside out. Dave

correct.... just cause its sealed does not mean it will not rust.. make a call to bill tweety, im sure hell take the time and run you through what you need to do..

will lynch got an aluminum trailer powder coated, thats the best deal with teh salt water trailers.. i loved my steel myco, i will only own mycos.. mostly cause of customer service.. they are great..

**Trim'd Up** · 11-05-2008 11:23 PM

We did a buddies trailer with por-15 and topcoated with 9100. The POR-15 is tough stuff, will never rust, and you can spray it right over rust. I used it on a really rusty jeep frame almost 10 years ago and the rust still hasn't returned. It needs to be topcoated though, because it doesen't like sun.

**masi242** · 11-11-2008 09:02 PM

Where can you buy the por-15?

**Trim'd Up** · 11-12-2008 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by masi242

Where can you buy the por-15?

Most any good automotive paint supply house. I think I have even seen it Oreiley's before. It is not cheap and don't get it on anything that you don't want black. That sh!t never comes off of your hands once it dries.

**Audiofn** · 11-13-2008 07:43 AM

POR 15 is a Serwin Williams product so any of their stores have it.

**masi242** · 11-13-2008 07:27 PM

Thanks I have dealer in town.

**Fossil Fuel** · 11-13-2008 10:25 PM

Blasting is the key with paint or hot dip. New trailers are not blasted. The oils and mill scale is never cleaned well enough at the builder to get really good adhesion. The blasted trailer will outlast any new paint on a new trailer.

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