question about stainless

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

On the little screws. I would use map gas to heat it and PB Blaster penetrating oil. Heat it, spray it, attempt to turn, repeat. It may take an hour test of patience. If it is still being stubborn I will use the hammer type impact. Again patience. The screws are small enough to break by hand. If you can get it to move at all you should be able to remove it with heat and PB.

BTW I would use red loctite on the screws when assembling.

[2112]

2112,

Listen to my father, he knows what he's talking about. We've been down this road too. Those stupid 2 or 4 screws always break!!

I know he does, I just need to get the dang things apart!

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[2112]

BTW I would use red loctite on the screws when assembling.

Instead of the anit-seize?

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[2112]

what works for me is a trick an old mechanic showed me on the exhaust studs of fords 5.4 motor.
Anyone whos ever changed a manifold will tell you how these studs snap.
Heat the nut or bolt going into the part, dont make it glow! Just warm it up and then touch some wax to it, the wax seeps into the threads like solder in a pipe joint and walla it usually comes right out.

I assume it is corrosion that is locking them together, wont that prevent the wicking action of the wax?

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[gcarter]

I've had pretty good success w/blue LocTite. Particularly w/small screws. So the LocTite is doing double duty by coating the threads and not, in most cases, allowing galing, and it keeps vibration from loosening the fasteers.
Doesn't run either and seems to be water resistant.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Instead of the anit-seize?

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I prefer loctite for stainless in aluminum. Anti seize on stainless to stainless.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I assume it is corrosion that is locking them together, wont that prevent the wicking action of the wax?

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The techniques are different in aluminum. The salt and corrosion accumulates in the threads. The salt crystallizes and expands locking it together. When heating patience is needed because the aluminum dissipates the heat through the entire piece. So it takes some time to got the area of focus hot. Some times a few heat cycles are needed. It seems the PB blaster gets drawn in as it cools. Once the screw head is damaged your done.

[2112]

The techniques are different in aluminum. The salt and corrosion accumulates in the threads. The salt crystallizes and expands locking it together. When heating patience is needed because the aluminum dissipates the heat through the entire piece. So it takes some time to got the area of focus hot. Some times a few heat cycles are needed. It seems the PB blaster gets drawn in as it cools. Once the screw head is damaged your done.

Would you still use an impact wrench after this?

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[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The hammer type. I like them for the little screws. I look for the screw to move. Once it does move I know I can get it. I then move it back and spray again. If the screw moves I know the PB is getting in to do its magic.

It is all finesse with those dam little screws in the ring. And of course patience.

[2112]

By Hammer type, do you mean like my Milwaukee Cordless drill with the hammer mode turned on? I also have a pneumatic impact wrech.

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[MOBILEMERCMAN]

No, I mean the hand tool that you hit with a hammer. Old, old school.

[2112]

no, i mean the hand tool that you hit with a hammer. Old, old school.

:usa:

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