question about stainless

[Audiofn]

I think I use a stuff called swage gell. It works better then anything I have ever used. If I do not have that then I use good old white lithium. Got to be carefull what anti seize you use or you can make it worse.

[Geronimo36]

I think the galing has a lot to do with how tight people make it... Lots of people overtighten everything; for instance, a transom assembly... If you gal those threads it was overtightened because they don't want them very tight to begin with. Stainless is soft so don't tighten bolts reallly quickly because it'll heat up and make everything worse.

If they do tighten up I work it back and forth slowly, not letting it get very hot...then have some pb blast handy to lube it up and keep it cool. If it's a small bolt I'll just torque it to break it and replace it...too much labor time involved in trying to mess with it when you're billing someone by the hour and the customer does't wanna hear/pay for your difficulties.

[old377guy]

If memory serves, the real issue with most stainless alloys is that they stratify under heat/stress. When force is applied in the opposite direction as in removing an improperly tightened bolt, a thin boundary(?) layer peels back and microscopically rolls back on itself;thus the galling. - Jeff

[scarrab30]

Glasdave, The reason for them galing, is that stainless nuts when heated contract inward towards the threads. Bee's wax works very well. Stainless works the opposite of steel. steel will expand on the threads if it's heated. Brian

[nthdegree]

Glasdave, The reason for them galing, is that stainless nuts when heated contract inward towards the threads. Bee's wax works very well. Stainless works the opposite of steel. steel will expand on the threads if it's heated. Brian

not true....

[Tony]

So what's everybodys worst story of having stainless gall and seize up? Theres a guy here in MN with a 42 fountain, and he hadn't found out about anti-seize or what galling is. He's a smart guy, rigged his entire boat and built his own motors, but everyone has their learning curves. Anyways, he had put on his #6 transom assys with an air impact and no anti-seize... Let's just say he had some problems when he went to take his transom assys off to repaint the transom...

This past summer when mounting an outboard to my Whaler, half inch nylok nuts froze solid to the bolts as soon as they engaged the nylon insert, I realized it was a problem after I snapped off the 3rd. bolt with a breaker bar. 99% of my stainless hardware experience has been with the stuff thats on my old Cig. Ive uninstalled and reinstalled the same SS nuts and bolts dozzens of times with no problems. Made in China, gotta love it.

[US1Fountain]

I always screw SS hardware in by hand. Heat is SS's enemy in bolted connections. If I feel the nut or bolt starting to tighten up from galling, I'll stop and slowly work it back/forth and try to spray lube in for lubrication and to cool the threads. Unfortunately, once it starts to seize, it only goes downhill.

[planetwarmer]

Just use Ti instead.

[Excalibur Racing]

When pipefitters thread stainless pipe and nipples we use soap. Not oil.

[C_Spray]

First off, make sure you get 316 (or 316L) stainless when you can. 18-8 and 304 are not good in a marine environment.

Tef-Gel is the hot stuff. It's especially important if the stainless is in contact with aluminum. In the presence of salt water, that interface makes a really good battery. I had to hack apart (and scrap) a number of fairly expensive parts when I came across this results of this little phenomenon a few years ago.

To original post: Once it starts to gall, consider both parts scrap.

[Sean H]

Tef-gel everything. period.

[2112]

Shame he didn't look at installation manual.

Installing Inner Transom Plate Assembly Step number 2

Apply never seize on to thru hull studs

There is a load of good info in the 37 pages.

Is "never seize" a Merc product?

.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Is "never seize" a Merc product?

.

No . You should be able to find easily at a parts supply house.

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm Do not use the type with copper in the water. The nickle is the one to use in water. It is listed last on the list. Copper attracts corrosion in water.

I just noticed a mariners choice I hadn't tried yet.

[2112]

No . You should be able to find easily at a parts supply house.

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm Do not use the type with copper in the water. The nickle is the one to use in water. It is listed last on the list. Copper attracts corrosion in water.

I just noticed a mariners choice I hadn't tried yet.

Ordered! Thanks Jim.

.

[2112]

Next question;

It seems Merc (or Cig?) did not put antisieze on these little 1/4" bolts that hold the hinge pin retainer ring on the side of the gimbal ring. I already tried heat, PB and slow turning with a wrench only to have them snap off like twigs.

Going to replace the entire ring, how the he11 do I get the remaining bolts out with breaking them?? Impact wrench?

Spotting on paint is salt-away BTW
.

[glassdave]

Going to replace the entire ring, how the he11 do I get the remaining bolts out with breaking them?? Impact wrench?

a lot of times its easier to clock that retainer 45 degrees and re drill and tap new holes. Then, of course, you can apply the stuff Merc failed to.

[Birdog]

I like the wax idea...Everytime i use anti-sieze i end up covered in it..
I might as well just roll around in it first..

[2112]

a lot of times its easier to clock that retainer 45 degrees and re drill and tap new holes. Then, of course, you can apply the stuff Merc failed to.

That has been suggested. On my older HP gimbals they had 2 screw and cloking it 90 degrees was the obvious answer.

With clocking it 45 degrees, I am concerned that I will have weakened the aluminum with 8 holes in a high stress area.

If I can get the thing off w/o destroying it, Team Tsunami suggested using EDM to get the broken bolts out.

Yes, I will be using the lube Jim posted. I haven't touched the other drive, I am sure they are seized as well.

.

[Team Tsunami]

2112,

Listen to my father, he knows what he's talking about. We've been down this road too. Those stupid 2 or 4 screws always break!!

[Prosno]

what works for me is a trick an old mechanic showed me on the exhaust studs of fords 5.4 motor.
Anyone whos ever changed a manifold will tell you how these studs snap.
Heat the nut or bolt going into the part, dont make it glow! Just warm it up and then touch some wax to it, the wax seeps into the threads like solder in a pipe joint and walla it usually comes right out.