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    Rusted Exhaust Pipe
    #1
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    I need to replace the exhaust pipes due to rust. I need help in locating the piece that slides over the end of the header. I have called Stellings and it is not a piece they manufactured. Can anyone provide me with a manufacturer? I do not believe that this piece was made at a local level. http://seriousoffshore.com/forums/im...hurray.gifHelp Please..........Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you,
    Fred
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    #2
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    Is that an elbow with high temp silicon to seal as it slips over the header? I don't recall ever seeing anything like that setup before.

    The elbow pieces are what you need to replace?
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #3
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    The elbow piece is what I'm searching for. The high temp silicone is on the the front as you stated but I have no idea why. I purchased this boat as a restoration project. Just when I thought that I was at a point of selling it, the exhaust pipe blew a hole in it (where the high temp cloth wrap was, as shown in the picture). I have located someone that can build new exhausts out of stainless, but I need these pieces to go over the end of the header. I'm open to about anything, however I will need two sets as this boat has dual 454's in it.
    Thank you for the help....Fred
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    #4
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    Do those exhaust pipes go down to a Y and into a through-hub setup? If so, what outdrives? (Doesn't look like they could be through-hull at that height.) The reason that I ask is that it might be cheaper and easier in the long run to go back to stock if those are custom.

    (Also doesn't look like a marine flame arrestor. Looks like a street K&N air cleaner.)
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    #5
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    You are correct in on the air cleaner.....Take a look at these photos.....in photo 1641, you can see how the exhaust pipe in configured. The last piece that goes out to the tailpipe is stainless and still usable. It is the other pieces that I need.....and now I'm concerned about the air cleaners....guess that's not right either???
    Last edited by Poolman; 01-06-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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    #6
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    Looks like a Chris Craft Stinger/Scorpion I had once. A few differences. Mine was an 87. But the exhausts on mine were thru-hub, meaning that they went through the outdrive center hole in the prop.

    Now I get what's going on with the exhausts. I didn't expect water level corner exhausts. That's unusual on a sport boat. Not a problem, just unusual. Kind of restrictive for high performance applications, but no more restrictive than through the hub exhausts on many many boats that people enjoy with no problems. It's not like you are racing. I think that I will email a really good tech that we have on this forum who doesn't post much and get his opinion on a parts source for that setup. He has seen everything. He's probably seen something like that.

    On the air cleaners, a very easy fix, but you want (and the coast guard requires) flame-arresting air cleaners. They use an overlapping metal mesh rather than paper element. They stop any backfire funny business from coming out the carb and igniting any fumes that may be present in the engine compartment. They come fancy and plain. I couldn't decide what I wanted to go with when I stepped down from 1050 Holleys to 850s, so I bought cheap ones like this: http://www.michiganmotorz.com/flame-...ors-p-548.html
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    #7
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    There should be a part number on the filter element that will tell you if it is Coast Guard approved when you look it up. Typically they have a fine screen on them and the auto ones do not.

    That exhaust is very interesting. I have to believe it was built by the boat manufacturer themselves. I'm trying to figure out why the water completely bypasses the exhaust from the end of the header to the bottom by the tee. There is no water in that section of the exhaust? I have to think about it and we need to ask a few more questions.
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratickle View Post
    There should be a part number on the filter element that will tell you if it is Coast Guard approved when you look it up. Typically they have a fine screen on them and the auto ones do not.

    That exhaust is very interesting. I have to believe it was built by the boat manufacturer themselves. I'm trying to figure out why the water completely bypasses the exhaust from the end of the header to the bottom by the tee. There is no water in that section of the exhaust? I have to think about it and we need to ask a few more questions.
    They look like a cross between a CMI and a GIL.
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    #9
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    With no water wouldn't that section of the exhaust get too hot?

    You emailing Jim?
    Last edited by Ratickle; 01-06-2014 at 04:42 PM.
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    #10
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    This picture shows a bit of the screen on a marine K&N


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-N-High...item2c793ba0eb
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #11
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    I zoomed in, but couldn't see the screen. Maybe he is fine.
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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratickle View Post
    With no water wouldn't that section of the exhaust get too hot?

    You emailing Jim?
    I was thinking about emailing Jim and seeing if he would take a peek.
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    #13
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    Aren't all the new "big" Merc engines using a K&N style filter??
    Is that because they are injected instead of N/A?

    I'm asking because my knowledge of engines is pretty basic.
    "Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
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    #14
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    I couldn't tell either. Looks like someone stood on the one though. Take zero chances, if you can't figure it out from a part number or the heavy screen being there for sure, replace them.
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #15
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    There are a lot of people out here running jet/v-drive boats with the engine bay open, so they don't concern about things like flame arrestors, or marine accessories (starters, alternators, etc...).

    Years ago, I had the alt. go out on my Baja on a Saturday, and wanted to use the boat Sunday. I had to talk the guy at Autozone into selling me an alt. after I mentioned it was going in a boat. He was refusing to sell.
    $95 alt. vs. the $400 marine alt.

    Honestly, I never changed back to a marine alt.
    But, I was ALWAYS diligent in using the blower and lifting the hatch - even before that. It's just how Dad trained me.
    "Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
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    #16
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    I didn't mean to hijack this with the flame arrestor thing. Just didn't notice the screen and it caught my eye.

    I have seen similar elbows (did some googling) with no threaded post for attachment. Wonder if all else fails, if a pair of threaded posts could be welded in place.
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    #17
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    This part must be made! it is how exhaust will flow to outboard exhaust hole in the bussle area. Good call on the flame arrestor's.........safety first...you should find a rubber sleeve at the end and start of the exhaust (tramson and motor discharge connection) they took the cheep way out ,it is not sst which is why they put a heat wrap on it.Ill bet they started to Glow..good luck!
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    #18
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    Volvo-Penta made a jacketed elbow for their exhaust system. Would that work? I'm assuming they were worried about reversion is why no water in the first elbow?
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #19
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    I have checked and the K&N 's are defiantly the flame arrested type. Good call on the safety aspect of that! I have been told that the exhaust does have a safety issue in that the water does bypass (as seen in the photo where it is wrapped), as some of you have pointed out. If y'all have not already figured it out it is a 1987 Pachanga with factory 454 's. Not sure if the headers came OEM or not.
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    #20
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    There is NO water going through that exhaust. The water is taken from the header and then put back at the tailpipe to exit.
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