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    #21
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    Thanks razor for the advice . I planned on out drive work . I was not thing of the exhaust logs but you right they are old and need testing . Can I preasure test on the motor or do I remove .
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    #22
    Founding Member fund razor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apache Doug View Post
    Thanks razor for the advice . I planned on out drive work . I was not thing of the exhaust logs but you right they are old and need testing . Can I preasure test on the motor or do I remove .
    I was just thinking of things I would test or replace no matter what, even if a boat had been well maintained like the Scout appears. The manifolds are tested off of the boat. For that kind of exhaust, the joint between the manifold and the riser is always a concern after a while. My last boat that used "stock" type wet exhaust manifolds and risers, when they got really old, I replaced them with cast aftermarket GLM manifolds relatively cheap. Obviously salt vs. fresh makes a difference, as well as hours. Everything about your Scout says low hours, so maybe there is no issue with them. But the rule of thumb is to test them every few seasons even if they are not leaking.

    Oh, I'd be really tempted to replace the outdrive bellows too. (More cheap insurance.)

    I miss small blocks sometimes. So much cheaper to work on and repower.
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    #23
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    Thanks fund razor for the advise . I plane on splitting the out drive . Anyone use AMSOIL FOR OUT DRIVE OR STICK WITH MERCRUISER OIL . Razor I had not thought to check the exhaust logs. I see on line some people use acetone . Is there a way to test without removing from the heads.
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    #24
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    I am sure this boat is original paint scheme. Here is an original picture from sales pamphlet . Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	80142 It is hard to tell is this gray or a metallic gray silver . I can't stand yellow and may paint the yellow this gray , and letter the boat just like the photo
    ,
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    #25
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    Sorry razor I did not see your post . I will for sure pull the exhaust and check . The bellows will need Changed I am sure . The previous owner only changed oil in out drive . The cap rotor and wires looks to be original or at least 20 years old , but run ok . I have had sbc for years and yes cheap . I will run the 350 for a wile but want to upgrade if I find a great deal on a big block . Again thanks for the advise fund razor and thanks for the serious off shore web site
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    #26
    Founding Member fund razor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apache Doug View Post
    Thanks fund razor for the advise . I plane on splitting the out drive . Anyone use AMSOIL FOR OUT DRIVE OR STICK WITH MERCRUISER OIL . Razor I had not thought to check the exhaust logs. I see on line some people use acetone . Is there a way to test without removing from the heads.
    I personally use whatever they call the "Mercury Hi Perf gear oil." I think they renamed it or repackaged it or something. The name may have changed, I can't recall. I have always used it with good luck. It's green. I used it with alphas, OMC Cobras, and Bravos.

    I'm sure there is a way to check the manifolds on the boat, but I haven't done it. I have always taken them off.

    I like small blocks. Maybe it's a case of grass is greener, but I had some nice smallblocks over the years. My big blocks are nice, but I am having trouble justifying the enormous cost difference on a relatively small boat. Two big blocks in a 28 is kind of fun, but also overkill almost all of the time. If my boat wasn't so heavy and had a higher X dimension, it wouldn't need them.

    I could see having a small block boat again sometime.
    Warning: This post may contain language unsuitable for minors or math not suitable for liberal-arts majors.
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    #27
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    I'm with Fund, keep it a small block boat. With todays technology on small block Chevy's, 700+ horsepower lives fine naturally aspirated and 1000 horsepower is makeable, and liveable, with turbo's or blowers. Heck, you can go buy a 627 horsepower smallblock outboard........
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #28
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    Fund and rat you guys are right. Small block is the way to go . I have had big blocks years ago and things have changed in the small block world heads cams and stroked 383 etc . I took the boat out and best I could get was 53 miles an hour .the motor was cutting out not sure if it is ignition or fuel delivery prob . Ordered cap rotor wires on ebay will get plugs in town will start there . 53 is not going to cut it . I will get some more pictures soon . For its age the boat is clean
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    #29
    Registered Apache Doug's Avatar
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    Let the money pit begin ooh and the need for speed :sifone
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    #30
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    Raticle. Cool logo you have reminds me of the weird rod stickers back in the early 70s
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    #31
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    Thanks, I've been a Big Daddy Roth fan forever. Here's the story on my Sig Line/Avatar, and many others!!

    http://seriousoffshore.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5306
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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    #32
    Founding Member fund razor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apache Doug View Post
    Let the money pit begin ooh and the need for speed :sifone
    If you are going to do this right, you need to start over with a boat that needs new twins or triples and is too big for your current truck to pull.
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    #33
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fund razor View Post
    If you are going to do this right, you need to start over with a boat that needs new twins or triples and is too big for your current truck to pull.
    Now you're teaching !!!!!!
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
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