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    Extension Box Steering Plumbing Question
    #1
    Registered MattBMiller's Avatar
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    Does anyone see a problem with plumbing my hydraulic steering lines through the sides of my IMCO extension box and entering through the drive cutout versus drilling more holes in the transom? Structurally?
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    #2
    Registered Twin27Advantage's Avatar
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    Have at it!
    It will be fine structurally.
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    #3
    Charter Member Griff's Avatar
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    I would be leary of doing it. My concern would be if one of the hyd lines came loose and rubbed on the input shaft causing a leak. You would quickly lose all steering.
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    #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griff View Post
    I would be leary of doing it. My concern would be if one of the hyd lines came loose and rubbed on the input shaft causing a leak. You would quickly lose all steering.
    Very good point,I also would be concerned about a driveshaft u-joint breaking and it whacking around at high speed piercing the oil line and causing boat to loose steering,Smitty
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    #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by smittyseng View Post
    Very good point,I also would be concerned about a driveshaft u-joint breaking and it whacking around at high speed piercing the oil line and causing boat to loose steering,Smitty
    That's my primary comcern, just seeing if anyone else has plumbed a box this way. What's everyone using to seal up the transom with the addition of a box? Ron at IMCO suggested 100% silicone, I was thinking 4200....
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by MattBMiller View Post
    That's my primary comcern, just seeing if anyone else has plumbed a box this way. What's everyone using to seal up the transom with the addition of a box? Ron at IMCO suggested 100% silicone, I was thinking 4200....
    i would go with 4200...which I believe you can get in clear as well as white.
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    #7
    Charter Member Griff's Avatar
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    3M 4200 or 3M marine 101 sealant. The silcones are not meant for below teh water line use. The 101 will be easier to remove and work with. The 4200 is an adhesive sealant and is like working with hot chewing gum.

    http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beQH8HT14PGTgl
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    #8
    Charter Member Sunsation96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griff View Post
    3M 4200 or 3M marine 101 sealant. The silcones are not meant for below teh water line use. The 101 will be easier to remove and work with. The 4200 is an adhesive sealant and is like working with hot chewing gum.

    http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beQH8HT14PGTgl
    Good information, I used 101 all over my transom, can't get anything off again but it is sealed
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    #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunsation96 View Post
    Good information, I used 101 all over my transom, can't get anything off again but it is sealed
    5200.....Jesus Jizz
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    #10
    Charter Member Griff's Avatar
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    The 101 should come off easily compared to 4200.

    5200 is an adhesive sealant for permanent installation
    4200 is an adhesive sealant for semi-permanent installations and has half the adhesive holding of 5200
    The 101 is mainly a sealant moreso than an adhesive. Its similar to silicone except better and meant to be used below the water line.
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    #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griff View Post
    The 101 should come off easily compared to 4200.

    5200 is an adhesive sealant for permanent installation
    4200 is an adhesive sealant for semi-permanent installations and has half the adhesive holding of 5200
    The 101 is mainly a sealant moreso than an adhesive. Its similar to silicone except better and meant to be used below the water line.

    101 it is. Hopefully I can get it wrapped up this weekend. Still waiting for my extyra long alignment tool to show up....
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    #12
    Registered LAKE EFFECT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smittyseng View Post
    Very good point,I also would be concerned about a driveshaft u-joint breaking and it whacking around at high speed piercing the oil line and causing boat to loose steering,Smitty
    The u-joint is in the bellow on the outside of the box, and if it blows apart you better find a beach before the boat sinks from a ripped open bellow. I recently broke a input shaft, and fortunately it didnt cause any extra damage. The inside of the box has alot of room, and as long as you keep clearances, and secure everything away from the driveshaft, your not going to have a problem. Keep in mind that the driveshaft spins a mere inch or two from the input water hose as well, which will have the same issues as the bellow if ruptured.

    Fast cure 5200 works well and is alot more managable than regular 5200(doesnt run nearly as much), and it gives you around 1 to 2 hrs before it sets.

    LE
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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAKE EFFECT View Post
    The u-joint is in the bellow on the outside of the box, and if it blows apart you better find a beach before the boat sinks from a ripped open bellow. I recently broke a input shaft, and fortunately it didnt cause any extra damage. The inside of the box has alot of room, and as long as you keep clearances, and secure everything away from the driveshaft, your not going to have a problem. Keep in mind that the driveshaft spins a mere inch or two from the input water hose as well, which will have the same issues as the bellow if ruptured.

    Fast cure 5200 works well and is alot more managable than regular 5200(doesnt run nearly as much), and it gives you around 1 to 2 hrs before it sets.

    LE
    Your correct,I was thinking about the ext box I had on my boat with the extra U-joint's and driveshaft (stellings box) and forgot the imco has the long torsional shaft,Smitty
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    #14
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    I wasnt trying to be a dic, just trying to make the point that anything can happen when you mix water and HP together. You have to look at what can possibly fail and try to prevent it. Also if your going to re-engineer something, that you trust your ability and judgement..

    LE
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    #15
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    Does anyone knoe where I can buy the connectors to just make short jumpers for the Merc Digital Trim Sender and Mercathode harness rather than splicing into the harness? Also, can I get a straight raw water hose barb rather than the angles one on there currently?
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