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    #41
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    I have used paper templates numerous times. They work just fine. The only thing the jig does the paper doesn't is it holds the drill at the correct angle.. You can do this your self if you pay attention and/or a friend assists. Lay out the transom before you make your final call as to how much needs to be filled..The holes will not only be moving out they will also be moving up. Make no assumptions as to where the holes will be .. Verify by laying it out in advance! The work is in the process. whether you add 4 inches or 8 doesn't change much.. Yes, I agree if the entire transom is sound just modify as needed. Never heard of soaking the wood. I would not suggest that. Use at least a 3" overlap. I think I would lean strongly toward removing the false floor and adding the center stringer. Either way take a good look at the outside stringers to ensure they are in good shape.

    I think 1 1/2" minimum clearance between the engines would be good.. The turbo housings will not like bumping into each other under way
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    #42
    Thanks Jim,

    I´ll cover the holes with paper, get some work done on the measurements and then post pictures, to see what you think. Got work next week so not sure when I´ll get it done. If I don´t get back on before christmas, Happy Christmas to you all.

    Thanks again.

    Pete
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    Template prepared
    #43
    Hi All, I got the rough template done today. It´s not mm perfect but when I transfer it to a stiffer card I will trim exact. I think it will help a lot, having the transom in the lounge (not what the other half said though)

    Ok, a couple of questions;

    1, Should the transom be exactly symmetrical?
    2, If not, where should measurements be taken from?

    I have taken a centre measurement, from the outside edges of the boat (close to top of transom), down to the centre of the lowest part of the hull. I think that the original drives were put in Pis*ed, as you can see. I am hoping that this is nothing like the "offset" for some outboard installations.

    Next step is to make card template and cut exact, then plan new drive holes, based on cavitation plate (gear box) 1 to 2 inches above hull bottom.

    Anyone have any ideas or observations?

    Thanks

    Pete
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF2829-w1000-h1000.jpg   DSCF2830-w1000-h1000.jpg   DSCF2831-w1000-h1000.jpg  

    DSCF2832-w1000-h1000.jpg   DSCF2834-w1000-h1000.jpg   DSCF2835-w1000-h1000.jpg  

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    #44
    2 more photos
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF2836-w1000-h1000.jpg   DSCF2837-w1000-h1000.jpg  
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    #45
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Senor Falcon View Post

    Ok, a couple of questions;

    1, Should the transom be exactly symmetrical?
    2, If not, where should measurements be taken from?


    Anyone have any ideas or observations?

    Thanks

    Pete
    1. It should be but, many are not.
    2 Level the boat side to side. Measure from the corners and chines. Mark a high and low spot. You may need to adjust for inconsistencies. Once the boat is leveled side to side you can use a level to verify the vertical center line. Once you establish the vertical centerline that's what you will use for all measurements. You may find it is like finding the centerline of an egg. This can be nerve racking but, it is the most important step.

    Have you determined what engine centerline you will use? The engines determine that.. Next with the template of the units you will be using lay them out using the centerlines you verified and adjust to the height needed. At that point you find what needs to be filled. When the time comes to actually drill you should mark the transom and measure directly on the boat IMO.

    I think once I have determined for sure everything will fit inside I would fill fill every hole on the transom then prepare and paint it.

    Happy Holidays,
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    #46
    Thanks Jim,

    Points 1, and 2, taken and I agree with what you say.

    The centres are not fully decided as yet. Mainly because I am realising that the further outboard the drives are, the higher the engines will be, in the boat. I have also noticed that the TRS, drive shaft to prop shaft, is about 1"1/2 longer, lifting the engine that much higher also. Then, if that wasn't enough, I see that the TRS also stands back from the transom about 5"1/4 more than the Alpha 1. Is there a way to work out how much higher the drive shaft should be because of this setback?

    I have found a setup sheet for the Apla / Bravo installation. This includes measurements for a right angle (90 degree tool) here http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Install/gas/86017211.pdf , it´s lined up with the drive centre line and level with the hull, at that point, then the top of the upright is the correct (cav plate level with hull) position for the horizontal centre line. Is there any measurements for this type of tool, for the TRS drives?

    I´m going to spend some time getting the exact measurements but I think I have the general idea. It does look like I might have to raise the engine cover, although it might look a little strange with a 2 story aft end :-)

    Pete
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    #47
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Senor Falcon View Post
    Is there any measurements for this type of tool, for the TRS drives?
    I provided you those dimensions on post # 35
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    #48
    Hi Jim, I had forgotten that, sorry. Would it be possible to email them to me? Also, can you tell me where I can buy the templates from.

    Thanks again.

    Pete
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    #49
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    Message sent
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