Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 70
  1. Collapse Details
    Tips for a Rookie on Turning
    #1
    First of all, I've never raced a boat and would love to put my Daughter(former drag racer) and myself thru the school. We don't have the cash to buy all the right stuff yet for the boat to be legal/safe/reliable, so we are looking at being a Vol. Boat for a few races this year to watch, learn, and bug the crap out of any drivers in the pits willing to share some knowlege. Also running LOTO shootout this year.

    I have a 30 Velocity with Bravo/IMCO shortys. Pretty (maybe too) high X dim. Looking to try 1" spacers next time the money tree comes into bloom. It has the pad bottom if that matters.

    I've never tried to turn real hard at speed for many obvious reasons but am going to work on that gradually this summer alone in the boat with friends nearby. (20yr Drag Racer) Later, with my Daughter on the wheel as I get comfortable.

    My main question is about trim and tab use. I usually bring the drives in a bit when turning hard and going fast (relatively). I would think you would want to drop high/outside drive more as well as tab. Maybe even raise inner tab and/or drive as well. I've never read or heard anyone mention this. May be an obvious reason for that... have tried the drives it a little bit only. seemed to help.

    Racers, please offer me some tips on this. Thanks in advance for sharing.
    Mark
    Last edited by Underdog88; 05-16-2010 at 12:03 PM.
    Reply With Quote
     

  2. Collapse Details
     
    #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Where the summer never ends
    Posts
    4,346
    I would raise the inner tab a little, nut much and it all depends on how fast and hard u turn..u never want the boat to hook.so leave the nose up a bit..trim in is fine ( to a point ) but if u trim to much in u will hook..and then BYE BYE !!!!!

    It also depends on which boat, i have no clue about Velocity..i bet others can help u there more !
    Reply With Quote
     

  3. Collapse Details
     
    #3
    Competitor F1-00 Racing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Palm Coast, Florida
    Posts
    350
    Steve Kildahl would be one of your best resources to tap, I also believe Steve Miklos has extensive knowledge of the Velocity characteristics.

    As DD has stated, every boat is different.
    www.tntoffshore.com

    "El Racing boat es una pasion que se lleva en la sangre"
    Reply With Quote
     

  4. Collapse Details
     
    #4
    WoW! 2 racers reply before I edited all my typos! Most all racers are alike I guess... I've helped MANY new motorcycle racers over the years. Keep em comming! Also looking to run Class 5(75mph) so you know how fast I'm trying to go...
    Thanks again!
    Reply With Quote
     

  5. Collapse Details
     
    #5
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lake Travis Texas
    Posts
    6,818
    I have raced and played in a number of 30's. I have a few suggestions.. First on tabs. Run the the tabs down a bit so you feel the boat react.. Then with quick taps bring them up to where they are not effecting the boat. Then 1 quick tap down. You shouldn't feel the boat react to it.. Mark that spot on your indicators. Never raise them above that point. Set like that they will not be active in calm water nor will it slow you down. They will react if some thing disrupts the boat. Depending on your type and settings on your indicators that will be some where near the second line from all the way up.

    On the drives. Use a straight edge and/or a level and mark your indicators where the drives are parallel to the bottom. Never trim them in past that spot when turning. Depending you your feel, preferences and experience you might find you can turn it hard slightly out from that setting.

    I recall I would typically run the boats with tabs at 2 and drives at 4. Drives at 6 if it was flat flat.

    Say your running at 2 and 4 and a you see some big boat wakes. I would leave the drives at 4 and add a couple taps to the tabs.

    So back to turning. The boat will turn and carve if you turn it at the same setting as you find it runs clean and fast like 2 and 4. I used to enjoy throwing it over to the point where it would lay on the side and letting it carve while gently sliding. It will not turn well in my experience if you reluctantly turn in to it. Get to know how much wheel the turn will need and do it all at once. If the bow wants to dig in it is trimmed in too much. If it wants to hop in the turn it is out too far. If the bow trys to dig in and you do not steer out of it it will go around . That will likely break the dives off the back of the boat so practice quick turns like 30 degrees turns before trying to master a hair pin.

    Finally remember it can throw you out on on the floor. So where your kill switch.. Lower your self in the seat so you are secure.. If you throw it in to a turn and something does not feel right to you turn back out of it.

    Please be careful.. Knowing your and your boats limitations are key.
    Reply With Quote
     

  6. Collapse Details
     
    #6
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lake Travis Texas
    Posts
    6,818
    I should also add.. Without external steering DO NOT try want I suggested.
    Reply With Quote
     

  7. Collapse Details
     
    #7
    Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks
    Posts
    212
    numbers on indicators mean nothing and without knowing exactly what type of actuator, and card, and where they are installed, transom angle, etc. They are just travel guides and any land marks for down, level, and the slight tap method mercman suggests all need to be marked on the card. Love those Velocities by the way used to run a 320 454mags carb. 365hp, ran 80mph radar. pad boats haulin a$$ will slide around turns a bit more than a straight v.
    Reply With Quote
     

  8. Collapse Details
     
    #8
    THANKS!
    Great info! I already run the tabs pretty much as you describe.
    The drives...
    I don't think I have enough prop in the water and have felt the outer one blow out a little in a turn I think. Prolly going too slow to really dig in but I don't get enough bow lift or reaction to trim IMO. Hence the question about outer drive tucked in a bit.

    We do have IMCO ext steering. Hard to practice as I always have my wife, dog ect w/me. Planning some solo rides this year w/friends watching to pull me outa the drink if needed.

    Thanks again Guys.
    Please keep em comming!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails outdrives.jpg   transom.jpg  
    Reply With Quote
     

  9. Collapse Details
     
    #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Where the summer never ends
    Posts
    4,346
    Quote Originally Posted by Underdog88 View Post
    THANKS!
    Great info! I already run the tabs pretty much as you describe.
    The drives...
    I don't think I have enough prop in the water and have felt the outer one blow out a little in a turn I think. Prolly going too slow to really dig in but I don't get enough bow lift or reaction to trim IMO. Hence the question about outer drive tucked in a bit.

    We do have IMCO ext steering. Hard to practice as I always have my wife, dog ect w/me. Planning some solo rides this year w/friends watching to pull me outa the drink if needed.

    Thanks again Guys.
    Please keep em comming!
    U want to keep your drives both at the same level at all times...or u will change the toe on them because of the tiebar ...u don't want that ..stuff like that break's gimbals !!!
    Do u have shorty's on it ??? just asking becasue that can be why u don't have enough bow lift ?!
    Reply With Quote
     

  10. Collapse Details
     
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bilgerat View Post
    numbers on indicators mean nothing and without knowing exactly what type of actuator, and card, and where they are installed, transom angle, etc.
    I do know that part... I did what mercman said when I first got the boat. My number level were@5s on panel. I adjusted them that way cuz they were off/uneven when I got the boat.

    I'll have to start over as I'm making my own indicators now.

    Thanks for the chime in B Rat!
    Reply With Quote
     

  11. Collapse Details
     
    #11
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lake Travis Texas
    Posts
    6,818
    Quote Originally Posted by Underdog88 View Post
    T
    I don't think I have enough prop in the water and have felt the outer one blow out a little in a turn I think. Prolly going too slow to really dig in but I don't get enough bow lift or reaction to trim IMO. Hence the question about outer drive tucked in a bit.
    The drives from the Velocity factory are already mounted high..Steve was one of the first to raise drives on production boats. I would guess they were already up about 5" before the shorties. I personally would rather have a good handling boat then the last MPH.

    I think you should try some spacers. You might even find some speed and improved handling in your case. If you add a spacer and it doesn't slow down add some more.
    Reply With Quote
     

  12. Collapse Details
     
    #12
    I've wondered about...DD
    I don't understand why the don't run heim joints on those for several reasons. I used to have a drive leak down over a week or so of non boating. The lock nut on the adjuster would always come loose because of the twist... Not how I would have built them...shrug
    Reply With Quote
     

  13. Collapse Details
     
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by MOBILEMERCMAN View Post
    The drives from the Velocity factory are already mounted high..Steve was one of the first to raise drives on production boats. I would guess they were already up about 5" before the shorties. I personally would rather have a good handling boat then the last MPH.

    I think you should try some spacers. You might even find some speed and improved handling in your case. If you add a spacer and it doesn't slow down add some more.
    I agree! I found some 1" spacers at a good price and hope he still has them when I'm ready. I want to run first w/my new motors before I change anything else. apples to apples...

    I love the surfing feeling when it's up in the pad. It ran mid to high 70s before and rairly got the perfect surf feeling. Needed wind in my face and a little chop for that. Maybe the extra bit of power will be the ticket but I think the X is marking the spot
    Reply With Quote
     

  14. Collapse Details
     
    #14
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lake Travis Texas
    Posts
    6,818
    Its a geometry thing. If the drives are at different levels they move closer together. If there are 2 tiebars installed there can be numerous other issues when trimmed un even.
    Reply With Quote
     

  15. Collapse Details
     
    #15
    great topic..
    does Santa's sleigh have a blower ?
    Reply With Quote
     

  16. Collapse Details
     
    #16
    MercMan "Its a geometry thing. If the drives are at different levels they move closer together."

    Ahhh.... I see said the blind man... The bar gets shorter at an angle. All the hours I spent aligning my drives and measuring toe in/toe out depending on prop rotation goes out the window pretty quick with only a few degree angle difference between the two drives.

    Buizilla... Great replys in a hurry too!
    about your name... B.U.I. Zilla????
    Reply With Quote
     

  17. Collapse Details
     
    #17
    DDevil... It was advertised as having 2" shortys when I bought it two yrs ago. I have not measured them to be sure but... I agree on the bow lift. I want to try the spacers but they are about 8 or 9 iitems down my priority list at this time.

    Thanks all. This is great! More tips?
    Last edited by Underdog88; 05-16-2010 at 06:35 PM.
    Reply With Quote
     

  18. Collapse Details
     
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Underdog88 View Post
    about your name... B.U.I. Zilla????
    uhhhhh...noooo
    does Santa's sleigh have a blower ?
    Reply With Quote
     

  19. Collapse Details
     
    #19
    There are alot of very talented guys on these sites, just remember that to win a race you do not have to or really want to turn "hard". In a rough water race it is about picking the smoothest line without giving ground to a competitor. In a smooth water race it is about being smooth without losing or scrubing speed. Most turns are 2 pins and the quickest way around is one bend, not two tight turns. So don't go out and practice 90 degree turns. Practice keeping your boat smooth and effiecent in the water. Don't get hurt!


    I know I'm the king of spin!
    Reply With Quote
     

  20. Collapse Details
     
    #20
    Founding Member / Super Moderator Ratickle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    37,407
    Blog Entries
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by Wahoo 214 View Post


    I know I'm the king of spin!



    You'll probably get some comments there......
    Getting bad advice is unfortunate, taking bad advice is a Serious matter!!
    Reply With Quote
     

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •