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    Some trailer trouble
    #1
    SO,

    Since I havent moved my trailer for a few months, things seem a lttle sticky

    I decided to pull the boat out this past weekend to make room to work on the deck, and when I moved it forward, the left rear wheels brakes seemed stuck. This was verified when I backed it up, and it just pushed the dirt behind it. So Sunday I made a bonehead move, and dragged it out to the street, thinking that once it hit the asphalt, it would free up, didnt happen, so now here I am in the middle of the street at 5PM on Mothers day, blocking the road. I quickly jacked it up, and tried to remove the wheel in order to free the brake manually(or remove the caliper completely). In my rush, I got a big old bar, and tried to remove the lug nuts, all came free, but one, so I applied some more force figuring if it breaks the stud, I will just replace the stud later. Well, it didnt break the stud, but it did spin, and now just keeps spinning without coming off. One of 2 things happened, either the threads are gone, and the nut wont catch the remaining outer threads, or I ripped the knurl off the stud. Any ideas on how to remove this thing? so I can fix the brake?? By the way, at that point I said screw it, I am going to back it thru the grass, I didnt care at that point if I tore up the lawn, wouldnt you know, that a few feet before I got it back into its home, the brake freed up

    Also, I gotta see whats up witht he right front, wears the outside of the tires like mad. Looks like this weekend will be trailer repair rather than fiberglass.
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    #2
    You'll probably have to drill down the center of the stud to get that lug off- at least if you want to protect that wheel.

    Also, this is why everyone should have a length of chain in their tow toolbox. If you have a problem with an axle, you can pull it up and limp your way to help- or just back into your driveway.
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    #3
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    Use a nut splitter on it and split the lugnut !!!!!!

    Then go from there..they work, i had to do it on my myco because i lost the key for the locks !
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Use a nut splitter on it and split the lugnut !!!!!!

    Then go from there..they work, i had to do it on my myco because i lost the key for the locks !
    It is not a full lug nut like the fancy chrome ones, just an old school open nut with the stud sticking thru the middle, will a nut splitter work on that??
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    You'll probably have to drill down the center of the stud to get that lug off- at least if you want to protect that wheel.

    Also, this is why everyone should have a length of chain in their tow toolbox. If you have a problem with an axle, you can pull it up and limp your way to help- or just back into your driveway.

    I agree, but it was late Sunday, and I had a few and sniffed a bunch of resin at that point
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    #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rchevelle71 View Post
    It is not a full lug nut like the fancy chrome ones, just an old school open nut with the stud sticking thru the middle, will a nut splitter work on that??
    YES !!!!!! it will !!!!!!!!
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by rchevelle71 View Post
    I agree, but it was late Sunday, and I had a few and sniffed a bunch of resin at that point
    Resin fumes will definitely mess you up.
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    #8
    SO Tech Expert: Ford PSD's fixxxer22's Avatar
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    you could also use a lady foot prybar behind the nut and spin it until it catches some threads. it will most likely come off hard still and destroy all the remaining threads. but you are going to need to replace the stud and nut anyways.
    Now recruiting Mississippi power boaters.
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    YES !!!!!! it will !!!!!!!!
    OK, now that I see how they work(looked it up on th internet), I will take a look tonight and see if I have clearance to use one, it is only a 14" wheel May stop by sears ont he way home and check the overall size of the splitter.
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by fixxxer22 View Post
    you could also use a lady foot prybar behind the nut and spin it until it catches some threads. it will most likely come off hard still and destroy all the remaining threads. but you are going to need to replace the stud and nut anyways.
    Thought about that on sunday, but I dont think it is out far enough to get anything behind it, may be that the stud is turning also, gotta get a 13/16 wrench, rather than the socket on it to check.
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    #11
    Got the compressor fixed tonight, so maybe its a good sign, and I will get some work done before the weekend.
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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rchevelle71 View Post
    OK, now that I see how they work(looked it up on th internet), I will take a look tonight and see if I have clearance to use one, it is only a 14" wheel May stop by sears ont he way home and check the overall size of the splitter.
    It should fit,, it did on my mag wheels and they are real stupid shaped !
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    #13
    Many aluminum wheels have the recessed holes for the lugs. If yours don't the nut splitter may work. If you have to drill, use a small diameter at first to get a pilot hole.
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    #14
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    Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!
    Damn. That's a good idea.
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    Many aluminum wheels have the recessed holes for the lugs. If yours don't the nut splitter may work. If you have to drill, use a small diameter at first to get a pilot hole.
    I have galvanized steel wheels.
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    #17
    Registered MILD THUNDER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!
    Yep. Easiest way! Thats how i always had to remove my electric drum assemblies off my snowmobile trailers.
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!
    Not sure if that will work with the oil bath hubs, I have never worked on them, so not sure how they come apart? This is not exactly what i have, but similar.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hub.bmp  
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    #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rchevelle71 View Post
    Not sure if that will work with the oil bath hubs, I have never worked on them, so not sure how they come apart? This is not exactly what i have, but similar.
    They come appart the same way as others , exept u have to unscrew the plastic cap and drin the oil....not in the driveway !!!!
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    #20
    SO Tech Expert: Ford PSD's fixxxer22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!
    really good idea!
    Now recruiting Mississippi power boaters.
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