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    Heli-coil outdrive?
    #1
    Fix one thing, break another...

    I had to replace a hydraulic line and rebuild one of my trim rams. Got that done and the drive reinstalled last night. Good news is the ram is fixed and the drive goes all the way up now in trailer position. Bad news is when I went to reinstall my Simrek Halo drive shower, I found the threads are stripped out of the outdrive. I really think the threads came out when I removed the bolt a week and a half ago. I boat in fresh water and I used anti-seize when I installed the bolt. I always thread that bolt in by hand and only snug it down. I think part of the problem was that the supplied bolt is about an 1/8" too short and was not getting enough bite into the threads. Anyway, I now have strpped threads in the drive on the left-hand side upper bolt hole that secures the rear inspection cover. What is the normal repair for something like this? Heli-coil? It only stripped out the first couple threads in the drive. I know this as they were on the end of the bolt. I left the shower off and put back in the original bolt and it was able to get a bite as it is about an 1/8" longer than the supplied replacement bolt is after it passes through the tab and spacer for the shower. I would like to repair the threads and get a longer bolt so I can reinstall the shower. Otherwise I have two holes to fill in the anti-cavitation plate. Thanks.
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    #2
    Heli coil will work fine, they are actually stronger than the original threads.
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    #3
    Charter Member phragle's Avatar
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    time certs seem to hold much better than heli coils. you may also have some luck retapping/chasing the threads.
    P-4077 "The Swamp" S.B.Y.C. and Michigan medboat mothership
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    #4
    Thanks for the tip on Time-Sert. I had not heard of them before.
    http://www.timesert.com/

    I was somewhat encouraged that a longer bolt (the original one) took a bite so maybe I could just run a tap through and get a longer bolt (or cut one down to proper length). Very little aluminum came off with the bolt. Maybe two threads worth max and it was very thin.
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    #5
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    If there isn't a lot of thread pressure on the bolt, you can rebuild the threads with epoxy (jb weld) and get some time out of it. just wax the bolt and you can remove it.
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    #6
    SO Tech Expert: Ford PSD's fixxxer22's Avatar
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    i would say the cert. that is how we are fixing missing threads in aluminum heads in the spark plug holes.
    Now recruiting Mississippi power boaters.
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    #7
    Charter Member phragle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by northernoffshore View Post
    If there isn't a lot of thread pressure on the bolt, you can rebuild the threads with epoxy (jb weld) and get some time out of it. just wax the bolt and you can remove it.

    I would consider that in the field, but if the drive is off and portable, the permanent solution would be to weld it up and redrill/tap if an insert doesnt do it.
    P-4077 "The Swamp" S.B.Y.C. and Michigan medboat mothership
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by fixxxer22 View Post
    i would say the cert. that is how we are fixing missing threads in aluminum heads in the spark plug holes.
    Saw they have a kit for the 5.4L motor. Is that still a common problem with the 2010 motors? I take delivery of a F-150 FX-4 next week.
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    #9
    SO Tech Expert: Ford PSD's fixxxer22's Avatar
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    nope all fixed. mostly the first generations of the 5.4 2v and 6.8 2v. the 3v engines are actually really hard to even get the plug out of. dont change them ever!
    Now recruiting Mississippi power boaters.
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    #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rchevelle71 View Post
    Heli coil will work fine, they are actually stronger than the original threads.
    Agreed, the weekness will be the casting/drive side
    Not the heli!
    Make sure to install with care!
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