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    Engine Hatch actuator went out....Help
    #1
    I have a 1990 29 Fever. The engine hatch actuator went out this past weekend with the hatch down. It gave no warning it was going out. It won't move up or down. When you hit the button the motor turns, but you hear a sound like when gears are stripped. I have tried everything to try and get it open. I removed the rear pins and tried lifting it up enough to maybe get to the bolt that attaches it to the hatch, but it will only lift and slide about 2 inches.
    The only option I see is to remove the two outside vents and use 2 four foot 3/8" extensions and stick them through either side and try and remove the nut from the hatch bolt and then try and slide the bolt outsome how.

    I can't believe I am the only one who has ever had this happen. I have looked everywhere and there is no way to access this bolt if the hatch is closed.

    Help!!!
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    #2
    They are a real PITA when they go like that. There are many lines & models where that event was not well thought out for repair.

    You will have to be creative to get it apart. Especially if it doesn't have a quick release pin. Some have no way of getting it open or apart without cutting or sacrificing something, which really sux..

    I would try going in thru the vents first or looking to see if you can painstakingly get in by carefully removing of sneaking in thru somewhere else.. Good luck with it.. J
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    #3
    If the extensions through the air vents doesn't work, my only option is to try and remove the upholstery for the sun pad and grind the bolts off that attach the bracket to the hatch.
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    #4
    Registered Slandrew's Avatar
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    Take rear hinges off!
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    #5
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slandrew View Post
    Take rear hinges off!
    x2.....sorry your said you tried that
    Last edited by pullmytrigger; 04-07-2010 at 01:10 PM.
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    #6
    I did take the rear hinges off. The ram is in the center of the hatch, so when you try and raise it from the rear it just hits against the front and only allows it to come up about 2". It wont even slide back enough with the hinges out to get your hand through in the front. That ram sits in a tall U-shaped bracket in the center of the engines, so it only slides back until the ram hits the back of the U-shaped bracket. When you try to push it forward the front hits.
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    #7
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slandrew View Post
    Take rear hinges off!
    he said he tried that Andrew...

    is there any way you could group a whole bunch of ratchet extensions together and get at one of the bolts through the air vent?

    can you lift up on the hatch while somebody hits the button then stick a piece of wood under to hold it open......?
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    #8
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    Sorry I cannot help with he fix but what a STUPID design this is. WTF was Fountain thinking ? I know mine will fail some day !
    ed
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by pullmytrigger View Post
    he said he tried that Andrew...

    is there any way you could group a whole bunch of ratchet extensions together and get at one of the bolts through the air vent?

    can you lift up on the hatch while somebody hits the button then stick a piece of wood under to hold it open......?
    Thats what I was planning to do. I have a two four foot 3/8" extensions that I am going to put wiggler sockets on the ends of and put one in the port side to hold the bolt from spinning and one in from the starboard side and remove the nut. Then just take a very strong stick magnet or a grabber and try and pull the bolt out while wiggling the hatch.

    It should work.
    I was just looking for some more ideas for a back-up plan.
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    #10
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    do you have someone to old the button while you try and lift it up?
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    #11
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCEd View Post
    Sorry I cannot help with he fix but what a STUPID design this is. WTF was Fountain thinking ? I know mine will fail some day !
    ed
    almost every offshore boat has this prob.....
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by pullmytrigger View Post
    do you have someone to old the button while you try and lift it up?
    That was the first thing I tried.
    I thought I was going to brake the hatch I was picking it up so hard and shaking it.
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    #13
    Registered Slandrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pullmytrigger View Post
    he said he tried that Andrew...

    is there any way you could group a whole bunch of ratchet extensions together and get at one of the bolts through the air vent?

    can you lift up on the hatch while somebody hits the button then stick a piece of wood under to hold it open......?
    Yea but not the boat in his avitar no side vents But if you can use extensions on both sides to hold nut then you have to knock bolt out???Also see if wire came off??Good luck!Wood wedges may help but don't get crazy or you'll damage fiberglass!
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    #14
    Charter Member pullmytrigger's Avatar
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    let us know how you made out......
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    #15
    Registered Pat Bates's Avatar
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    Now you got me worried. My sunpad is lifted by 2 actuators.

    Ruh row.....
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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pullmytrigger View Post
    almost every offshore boat has this prob.....
    Wouldn't take a lot to design a small 6"x6" access panel into the engine hatch. This could be removed to access the upper lift strut pin in a failure. The hatch is covered with sunpads on most non-race boats so no one would see the access panel.

    ed
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    #17
    Founding Member Buoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCEd View Post
    Wouldn't take a lot to design a small 6"x6" access panel into the engine hatch. This could be removed to access the upper lift strut pin in a failure. The hatch is covered with sunpads on most non-race boats so no one would see the access panel.

    ed
    Yeah, but that pad is usually thru-bolted to the underside of the hatch with T-nuts.

    I'm thinking if you're in "preventative mode", installing a pull pin on a cable (similar to hood pins on old muscle cars) would be the way to go.

    In Double B's situation... All I can say is I wish I was there. I have a way of figuring out how to get out of situations like this.
    "Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Buoy View Post
    Yeah, but that pad is usually thru-bolted to the underside of the hatch with T-nuts.

    I'm thinking if you're in "preventative mode", installing a pull pin on a cable (similar to hood pins on old muscle cars) would be the way to go.

    In Double B's situation... All I can say is I wish I was there. I have a way of figuring out how to get out of situations like this.

    I am going to be home in about three weeks to tackle this job. I will let you all know how it turns out.
    Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like all of us boat owners think on the same wave length!

    I was already thinking about a quick pin with cables running over to the side vents for future.
    Great minds think alike
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    #19
    Just to give you guy's an update.
    After About two hours worth of sweat and a little skin off the knuckles I was able to get 4' worth of extensions in from each side of the boat after I removed the vents. Got the nut off and then was able to wiggle the hatch with a 4' stick magnet stuck to the bolt and pull it out. It was a total Bi#%, but the hatch is open!!!!!!
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    #20
    Founding Member Buoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double B View Post
    Just to give you guy's an update.
    After About two hours worth of sweat and a little skin off the knuckles I was able to get 4' worth of extensions in from each side of the boat after I removed the vents. Got the nut off and then was able to wiggle the hatch with a 4' stick magnet stuck to the bolt and pull it out. It was a total Bi#%, but the hatch is open!!!!!!
    Congrats!
    Sometimes it takes a bit of that ingenuity! and a lot of determination.
    "Keep the bottle on the bar Ira, I won't be long".
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