Technical Info and Hull Designs

[endeavor1]

I thought we may need a dedicated thread

[endeavor1]

Just want to make sure that proper credit is given where due, the chines are what made the BT's maintain a slow speed crawl, and that idea was from us. It acounted for roughly 80% of the fix. I know Steve has had alot of input with props and x-dimension, but I just want to make sure that credit goes where it is due for the implemented hull mods.

The filling in of the notch helps, but dropping the chines essiantially reduces deadrise and make the back part of the boat flatter. Not only does it go faster because of the better angle of attack from more lift from the chines, but it is more stable as well because the back portion of the boat is essiantially flatter. It gives the boat a bigger footprint to sit on.

In the first pic, here is a rendering giving an idea of what the chines of the first generation 46's looked looked like (what Endeavor has). The 2nd pic is the 2nd generation BT's (what John P has), where they had added some strakes just below the chines. The filling/dropping of the chines though was the biggest help and addition to the adding of the strakes. You can see how much material was added and how much lift and stability that will improve.
Attached Thumbnails

[endeavor1]

The bravo to arneson in short is not just a bolt on...... you have to reglass the transom and possibly fill in the notch, move the motors around. It's about the same work as putting on 6's, and 6's will handle more power than the arneson conversion (asd6's and 7's). Also, the bravo conversion from arneson has a deep skeg on it. Not sure about the asd 8-10's...... Those either have skegs or fins on the sides.

Also, we have Bam and Huber trannies. We think we like the bams better because they have a deeper sump, and if the pump looses pressure, the bams recover more quickly.

[endeavor1]

Damn Jason, you are quick. I didn't even see you come in to my shop and do all that glass work on my hull last night. Next time though, put on some #6's and 1800 hp engines!!!!

[Coolerman]

I thought we may need a dedicated thread

[spiker]

Here is the transom of mine

[spiker]

one wrong one on previous post

[Rik]

The bravo to arneson in short is not just a bolt on...... you have to reglass the transom and possibly fill in the notch, move the motors around. It's about the same work as putting on 6's, and 6's will handle more power than the arneson conversion (asd6's and 7's). Also, the bravo conversion from arneson has a deep skeg on it. Not sure about the asd 8-10's...... Those either have skegs or fins on the sides.

Also, we have Bam and Huber trannies. We think we like the bams better because they have a deeper sump, and if the pump looses pressure, the bams recover more quickly.

One does not have to glass the transom to install the "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit". The engines will stay in the same relative location as they were with the Bravos. The BT hull has a 'Built in Standoff box" according to them and this might make things a bit different but as a general rule things stay pretty much the same.

The only time a notch becomes an issue is on a stagger and the notch itself does not need to be filled in, just the area where the drive mounts, and this is smaller than you think.

As for power, yes the #6 Merc has a larger hp rating than our "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit" does but you are comparing two different things. We have a drive that has a higher rating that the #6 Merc, our ASD8 drive units. Compare the "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit" to the capacity of the Bravo and the Bravo derivatives for a more apple to apple comparison.

Bigger skeg apparently is a benefit as Merc just increased the size of theirs.

[BDARCHER]

Looks to me like the new mods would make the boat land hard in the bigger water offshore. Maybe OK for a lake boat. Just my 2 cents. Bobby

[Coolerman]

Looks to me like the new mods would make the boat land hard in the bigger water offshore. Maybe OK for a lake boat. Just my 2 cents. Bobby

It will fly straighter/more level, but since it runs flatter, it will knife through waves a bit better in the rough. But yes, it might land a little harder in the event you launch it real hard, but your chances of doing that are greatly reduced with the new hull mods.

[endeavor1]

One does not have to glass the transom to install the "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit". The engines will stay in the same relative location as they were with the Bravos. The BT hull has a 'Built in Standoff box" according to them and this might make things a bit different but as a general rule things stay pretty much the same.

The only time a notch becomes an issue is on a stagger and the notch itself does not need to be filled in, just the area where the drive mounts, and this is smaller than you think.

As for power, yes the #6 Merc has a larger hp rating than our "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit" does but you are comparing two different things. We have a drive that has a higher rating that the #6 Merc, our ASD8 drive units. Compare the "Arneson Bravo Conversion Kit" to the capacity of the Bravo and the Bravo derivatives for a more apple to apple comparison.

Bigger skeg apparently is a benefit as Merc just increased the size of theirs.

Rik, that was a copy and paste so i wanted to let you know it was in no way intended to slam ASD. I know we have spok about my previous 43 and now onto my 46. Bravo BT guys are all in the same boat, big machine, little drives and we are all trying to find the best solution to this issue. Bob Jenkins, owner of BT, had suggested that i try out some ASD conversions but i am just leery of the height vs notch issues. I m headed this weekend ot pick it up and will post pix of its transom.

Chris

[endeavor1]

LOL, i know but it needed done

[Coolerman]

LOL, i know but it needed done

sadly it did

[endeavor1]

Everything is similar between the #6 and the #7M but different ranging from the steering geometry, rudder sizes, power ratings etc.. The #7M replaced the #6 Arneson.
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http://www.arneson-industries.com/

[Coolerman]

1. Current steps on the 460 hull
2. Comparision btw our 43 (left side) and a stock one (right side)
3. More pics of mods of our 43
4. Turndowns we added on our center section
5. More pics of our bottom mods
6. Back section of the current 460 hull. The red line shows where the chines originally were.

[Coolerman]

1. 1st generation 460 and placement of the chines.
2. 2nd generation 460 and how strakes were added just below the chines
3. 3rd generation 460 where the chines were almost dropped to the level of the strakes that were added on the 2nd generation. (note, the 3rd generation hull had the notch filled in as well)
4. Spikers 3rd generation hull with the notch left in it because it's a higher speed hull.
5. Another mod we are going to try is cutting off 5-10' of the strake pointed out in this pic (the 460 is pictured here, but the 43 has this same strake as well). We hope it will help with the slight porpoise btw 70-90, and also, if you hit a small wake at 120+mph, hopefully you will have less of a chance of sending the boat into orbit.

[endeavor1]

1. 1st generation 460 and placement of the chines.
2. 2nd generation 460 and how strakes were added just below the chines
3. 3rd generation 460 where the chines were almost dropped to the level of the strakes that were added on the 2nd generation. (note, the 3rd generation hull had the notch filled in as well)
4. Spikers 3rd generation hull with the notch left in it because it's a higher speed hull.
5. Another mod we are going to try is cutting off 5-10' of the strake pointed out in this pic (the 460 is pictured here, but the 43 has this same strake as well). We hope it will help with the slight porpoise btw 70-90, and also, if you hit a small wake at 120+mph, hopefully you will have less of a chance of sending the boat into orbit.

orbit isn't always bad.

[endeavor1]

1. 1st generation 460 and placement of the chines.
2. 2nd generation 460 and how strakes were added just below the chines
3. 3rd generation 460 where the chines were almost dropped to the level of the strakes that were added on the 2nd generation. (note, the 3rd generation hull had the notch filled in as well)
4. Spikers 3rd generation hull with the notch left in it because it's a higher speed hull.
5. Another mod we are going to try is cutting off 5-10' of the strake pointed out in this pic (the 460 is pictured here, but the 43 has this same strake as well). We hope it will help with the slight porpoise btw 70-90, and also, if you hit a small wake at 120+mph, hopefully you will have less of a chance of sending the boat into orbit.

orbit isn't always bad.

[thlwl]

Damn, I need to do that to mine too incase I hit a small wake at 120+mph!!!!!

[Coolerman]

Damn, I need to do that to mine too incase I hit a small wake at 120+mph!!!!!

lol Just for reference if you decide to get one with stupid big power!