Mercruiser 383 (6.2 L)

[boatnuts]

I have a brand new, unused 2006 engine that I bought a little over 4 years ago. It was bought for a project back then that never materialized. In the beginning after it had sat for several months and I knew it would sit indefinitely, I pulled the plugs and gave it a severe dose of "engine store" in the spray can. I jogged the starter multiple times and sprayed lots i each cylinder after each jog. I put the plugs back in and jogged it once. I then closed the crate and parked it the warehouse at work. After it sitting all this time I am going to be pulling it out late next month and installing in a boat. Before trying to start it, I plan on replacing the water pump impeller and pulling the plugs to give each cylinder a squirt of dexion before slowly turning the crank with a wrench. Do any of you experts have any other specific recomendations?

[Expensive Date]

I change the oil then prime the oil pumpMight change again after running depends on how it looks when You drain it the first time.Also after running a while might want to change the plugs all that oil might have fouled them.

[Biggus]

2006? Start it and enjoy. I'm sure it will be fine.

A buddy of mine bought a new 16 Donzi Classic back in 1998. He used it that season, I winterized it for him and fogged it heavily as this guy tends to forget about some toys for years... It sat until 2008. We pumped out the stale fuel, topped it off, installed a new battery and fired her up. All's well!

With a mild stock hyd cam, the springs can take sitting for quite a while!

[Chris]

Yeah.

You stored it right. You shouldn't have any problems.

I would pull the distributor and run a pre-oiler in it for a while. Turn the engine 90 degrees every few minutes.

[Expensive Date]

Forgot about turning the engine good point.

[Pismo10]

Turn it a lot and preoil with new oil before it starts. Might be some condensation corrosion of cap, rotor, etc. Take a look.

[boatnuts]

This engine is a straight stock 383 Magnum MPI with 350 crank HP. It is still in the original plastic Mercury crate and has been stored indoors where it is heated and dry. I just lifted the crate lid for the first time in years and it still looks and smells brand new. Do you think that the new oil that was shipped in it would have deteriorated just from sitting? Other than pulling the cap, is there an easy way to preoil?

[Knot 4 Me]

I read once (I think from Mobil) that the shelf life of oil is a couple years if unopened and about a year if opened (the original container). After that the additives start to deteriorate. Don't take that as the gospel, just what I think I read once. Oil is cheap so I would dump what is in there and start fresh. New filter too.

[VetteLT193]

Is it a 383 or a 6.2? 6.2 = 377. Curious more than anything. I know merc makes a 383 reman engine and I'm curious if that is what you have.

[boatnuts]

this is the 383 remanufactured

[Rush]

Machine shop that built my engine told me to use Rotella diesel oil for breakin oil if you change it. It has the additives needed for breakin.

[BUIZILLA]

Machine shop that built my engine told me to use Rotella diesel oil for breakin oil if you change it. It has the additives needed for breakin.

i'm going to disagree with that..

[boatnuts]

I have always broken new engines (truck & boat) in on a decent quality mineral based oil. Usually 2 relatively short period oil changes and then switched to full synthetic.

[Boat Tech]

I have always broken new engines (truck & boat) in on a decent quality mineral based oil. Usually 2 relatively short period oil changes and then switched to full synthetic.

There is actually a Service Notice form Mercury Remanufacturing about this and here is what they say to do to be safe.

The oil priming procedures for 4-cycle MerCruiser engines has been updated as of 03-01-10. The Quicksilver engine oil priming tool is no longer available (NLA) through Mercury Marine. However, the oil priming tool is available at most automotive parts stores; a part number example is provided in the attachment.

Mercury Remanufacturing has received several bearing failure warranty claim requests for remanufactured engines or longblocks. Engineering analysis indicated the engines were not primed, but dry started. This caused premature engine failure.

Please remember these points:

Remanufactured engines and longblocks are hot-tested at the factory and have oil in the crankcase.
Because of storage times, an oil priming procedure is required to prevent dry start failures.
The attached service information outlines the two accepted methods for oil priming a Remanufactured engine or longblock.


“Oil Priming” Procedures for 4-cycle MerCruiser Engines
IMPORTANT: All MerCruiser remanufactured 4-cycle engines are temporarily fit with
electrical, cooling and fuel systems to perform a series of “Hot-Test” validations for quality
control purposes. Thereafter, the engine oil drains back into the pan and loses its
lubrication value from the valve-train and cylinder walls. The “Oil Priming” procedure is
required prior to initial engine start-up to reduce the potential for premature bearing
failures.
Note: There are two methods to prime an engine prior to ignition. Either can be used.
Method A - Utilizing an Engine-Oil Priming Tool (Available at Automotive Parts Stores).
(e.g. NAPA Tool Part Number: 3446)
Method B – Utilizing a Remote-Starter-Switch (Mercury Tool: 91-52024A 1).
METHOD…A…(preferred)
1. Fill engine crankcase to proper level with recommended marine engine oil.
2. Remove the complete distributor assembly.
3. Install the oil “Priming-Tool” into distributor bore and onto the oil pump shaft.
4. Rotate the oil pump with an electric drill for approximately 2-minutes or until oil pressure
registers on an oil pressure gauge.
5. Remove the priming tool and reinstall the distributor according to instructions outlined in
a MerCruiser Service Manual.
METHOD…B…(optional)
1. Fill engine crankcase to proper level with recommended marine engine oil.
2. Remove all spark plugs.
3. Disconnect the high-energy wire from the distributor and connect it to a good ground.
4. IMPORTANT: Leave ignition key in the “OFF” position.
5. Connect one end of the “Remote-Starter-Switch” to the 12-Volt red positive battery cable
terminal and the other end to the smaller (yellow-red) terminal on the starter motor.
Note: If you opt to use the ignition switch instead of the remote-starter, disconnect the
PUR wire from the coil before turning the key. Cover the PUR wire with tape to avoid a
possible ground condition.
6. Crank the engine over for approximately 15-18 seconds. Let the starter motor cool down
for 1-minute before cycling again. Repeat this process 6 more times.
7. Remove the Remote-Starter-Switch or reconnect the PUR wire to the ignition coil.
8. Install the spark plugs and plug wires.
9. Start the engine with a good supply of cool water.
03.01.10

[boatnuts]

Boat Tech
Thankyou very much.
I am going to proceed as follows:
1. change oil and filter.
2. remove spark plugs and give each cylinder a little squirt of dexion
3. discon. high energy lead on distributor and ground
4. turn engine over a number or times (6-8)
5. replace spark plugs and recon. high energy lead
6. replace water pump impeller
7. connect a hose to the water pump
8. connect SC1000 gauge and temp. wire harness with key
9. start while still in the crate.

[Trim'd Up]

What's wrong with Rotella? I have always used it at least during Break in, then switch to mobil one. I know they reduced the zinc recently but it is still a pretty good oil.