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    Pulling tape successfully
    #1
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Question
    Any suggestions on pulling tape and not peeling up the paint you just laid down which overlaps onto the tape?

    I have used a razor blade to cut it but that is very time consuming and easy to Fubar it up. I also have pulled it wet to keep it from tearing, also easy to Fubar and hard when you do 2 coats.

    I want to put down a couple coats of Interlux "Brightside" with anti-slip.

    Any suggestions?

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    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #2
    Registered Trim'd Up's Avatar
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    I have always just pulled it kinda toward the painted area when it's still wet.
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    #3
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    Are you using just masking tape or masking tape on top of fine-line tape?
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    #4
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    is this on something you've already painted or something you are about to paint? If its not yet painted make sure the surface is completley prepped and sanded and i would also use an adheasion promotor. Pulling wet can help on these high build/high solid type products but its tricky.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #5
    I just painted some trim in my house and had the same issue but didn't want to post- some thing about home improvements gets these guys britches in a bunch.
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    #6
    You need to use 3m blue fine line tape. It is made out of plastic instead of paper and pulls right off when the paint is still tacky. Once completely dry it will still pull off, but may leave a rougher edge. It is avaliable at any Automotive paint store. Jeff Wurl
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    #7
    Any Blue Fine Line or Green Auto tape is always a plus and helps. I never pull straight up, I always pull the tape sideways, literally so my knuckles are dragging along the boat and not pulling straight up. The razor cutting the edge in thicker areas is always worth the time to cut along the tape, rather than pulling a chunk of fresh paint. Bob
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    #8
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glassdave View Post
    is this on something you've already painted or something you are about to paint? If its not yet painted make sure the surface is completley prepped and sanded and i would also use an adheasion promotor. Pulling wet can help on these high build/high solid type products but its tricky.
    It is on a previously painted surface (Concept). Surface is sanded but I did not know about an adhesion promoter. Who makes that?


    Quote Originally Posted by insanity View Post
    Are you using just masking tape or masking tape on top of fine-line tape?
    Quote Originally Posted by jwurl View Post
    You need to use 3m blue fine line tape. It is made out of plastic instead of paper and pulls right off when the paint is still tacky. Once completely dry it will still pull off, but may leave a rougher edge. It is avaliable at any Automotive paint store. Jeff Wurl


    I was planning to use the lime green masking tape (3M) How does the fine-line tape differ? Lower profile? It is OK if there is a difference in finish heights, I am adding it for the non-slip properties.

    Someone advised that I pull the tape by folding it over as I pulled and pull away (or down).

    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #9
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2112 View Post
    It is on a previously painted surface (Concept). Surface is sanded but I did not know about an adhesion promoter. Who makes that?








    I was planning to use the lime green masking tape (3M) How does the fine-line tape differ? Lower profile? It is OK if there is a difference in finish heights, I am adding it for the non-slip properties.

    Someone advised that I pull the tape by folding it over as I pulled and pull away (or down).

    .


    the adhesion promoter i like is called Bulldog (there all pretty much the same though) it comes in an aerosol and just about any body shop supplier should carry it. SEM has a good one as well, i use it on all jobs.

    The fine line you want is a 3M's green fine line, the other stuff is green masking (kinda confusing but the supplier will know). There is also a blue fine line, the two fine line tapes differ in that the blue is better for multiple radius taping like flames and the green fine is great for longer straighter lines. The green masking you will use to back tape the fine line as well as with masking paper.

    Yes it does help to pull the tape at a sharp angle to the surface to "cut" the paint. I usually pull everything but the fineline then do that by itself.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #10
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    Does the fine-line tape actually help you not lift the new paint or is it just more accurate?

    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #11
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    a little of both actually. It has a sharper profile then paper based masking tape and helps to score or start that edge a bit. Paper based tape can also leave a less then crisp edge and will allow paint to creap under it a bit if its not fully burnished down.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #12
    Founding Member / Contributor 2112's Avatar
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    Sold.

    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by MarylandMark View Post
    I just painted some trim in my house and had the same issue but didn't want to post- some thing about home improvements gets these guys britches in a bunch.
    A little trick for that is to smear a very light amount of paintable latex caulk over the edge of the tape where it is to be painted, when you pull it you will have a very nice and sharp edge with no bleed through.
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    #14
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    Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

    the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by glassdave View Post
    a little of both actually. It has a sharper profile then paper based masking tape and helps to score or start that edge a bit. Paper based tape can also leave a less then crisp edge and will allow paint to creap under it a bit if its not fully burnished down.


    Dave,

    Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


    Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
    as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

    Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


    Jon
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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

    the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!
    Well that is how I have usually done it in the past, Since I need 2 coats, I guess I tape it up 2 times.

    Quote Originally Posted by cougarman View Post
    Dave,

    Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


    Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
    as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

    Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


    Jon

    Does it say Latex only.

    .
    32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
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    #17
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarman View Post
    Dave,

    Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


    Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
    as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

    Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


    Jon
    cool stuff, latex only though. Its a tech'ed up version of Lee's trick. Thanks

    wonder if it would work with water borne paint? interesting. To be honest i rarely (if ever) have tape probs. Been doing this so long its second nature to steer around them.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by DAREDEVIL View Post
    Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

    the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!
    R U sure ???????????????????????
    If so Scott after we clear the deck will wait 30 mins and pull the paper & tape and let ya know how it turned out LMAO
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    #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by glassdave View Post
    the adhesion promoter i like is called Bulldog
    Just bought some. Says to lay down two coats. Seems odd to use a rattle can product. Any tips with this?

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    #20
    Founding Member / Competitor glassdave's Avatar
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    apply light coats, just dust them on and dont let it wet out. I warm the can up a bit and it seems to atomize pretty well. You really only need a few light coats.
    Throttles- Cleveland Construction/Traffic Light Racing 377 Talon cat
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