prop slip 28%

[jeffswav]

The drives are not getting changed this year. I have a L+R spare drives. Talked to Steve Stepp re: X dimension and he said 18" from bottom of the hull to drive input shaft centerline is correct.

So where does that put your propshaft depth with the TRS shortie? A standard bravo would be at 4 1/4" at 18".

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

After it is all said and done. The change to the shorter drives can be made to work with modern propellers. Its the ability of the TRS drive to hold up that is the limiting factor.

[speedfreak2030]

So where does that put your propshaft depth with the TRS shortie? A standard bravo would be at 4 1/4" at 18".

I did a quickie mesurment of my TRS from driveshaft/yolk to the propshaft centerline and its 24 1/2 inches subtract that from 18" and your at 6 1/2" give or take 1/4" or so. Anyone have the exact mesurment of a TRS?

[Biggus]

I did a quickie mesurment of my TRS from driveshaft/yolk to the propshaft centerline and its 24 1/2 inches subtract that from 18" and your at 6 1/2" give or take 1/4" or so. Anyone have the exact mesurment of a TRS?

TRS input shaft to prop shaft 24.2"

Standard length Konrad 22.53"

Konrad w/shorty lower 20.875"

[DAREDEVIL]

Here u go............

[speedfreak2030]

Biggus and Daredevil TRS mesurments are over 1 inch different. That seems like a lot especially when on some boats 1/4 makes a big difference. Since my drive plate is high if I went to a standard Konrad my X would be 4" and 2" for a shorty Konrad, would that be too small?

[DAREDEVIL]

Biggus and Daredevil TRS mesurments are over 1 inch different. That seems like a lot especially when on some boats 1/4 makes a big difference. Since my drive plate is high if I went to a standard Konrad my X would be 4" and 2" for a shorty Konrad, would that be too small?

Can u post a pic of the back of your boat ???
I would still go with SSM #4...don't worry about parts, u will not break any...also they are still out there and not that hard to get ,like some people think..just not from merc !!

I don't want to get in to a pi$$ing match again with Biggus about the konrads, but for the price of 2 Konrads ( even used ) u can buy 4-5 #4's .
The gimbal change is easy aswell, since the gimbal on a SSM is bigger then the TRS, so no glass work..just drill and cut !!!!
I also have up to 3 " spacers for #4/5's avlbl. and i think u be ready to roll.
but thats just me.....

PS, i got the mess. from the merc book so i don't know which one is off .....maybe they changed it at one point ?!
all the ones i ever messured matched the book !

PPS, then again , i think you are waisting your $$ ...everything over 90 MPH in a 30' Velocity is out of control and u can get hurt.....just ask VV on here,,he will tell u.
Nice boat, i am not slandering the make/model.....but its just not build to go that fast !

[Lee]

A 30' Velocity is one of the first big V-bottoms to break the 100 mph mark.
I'd go with the dependable Konrads.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Biggus and Daredevil TRS mesurments are over 1 inch different. That seems like a lot especially when on some boats 1/4 makes a big difference. Since my drive plate is high if I went to a standard Konrad my X would be 4" and 2" for a shorty Konrad, would that be too small?

My suggestion would be Keep your eye on the Fun Meter.

The Konrads will bolt up to what you have. Everything else requires a complete re rig. Install one of your drives and measure as Chris suggested. Find out if spacers are available for Konrads. I don't know but, expect they are available.

FYI the 18" X you mentioned is the measurement against the transom. That number is effected by the transom angle and can not be used to calculate directly as you have. The actual vertical height of a 18" X is less then 18".

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

A 30' Velocity is one of the first big V-bottoms to break the 100 mph mark.
I'd go with the dependable Konrads.

Yes Sir. The Race boat Still Crazy went low 90's as a Modified boat with small blocks. The first one I rode in had warmed up 400's and #2's. It went 86mph in 1985.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Over simplified a bit. The cut out is different and your winging the height. Aren't the tail stocks different lengths? He didn't say whether he has rear mounts.....

[Biggus]

Swapping to a SSMIII/IV or V from a TRS is a complete re-rig. The SSM trans tailstock is about 4" shorter than the TRS. The motors will need to be moved back, X-Dimention raised. Most likely the exhaust will need to be modified also. The SSM transom cut out is also quite different than the TRS. In the end it's a LOT of work to convert to a drive package that has been long discontinued. Parts for the SSM series, even wet sump VI parts, are very getting scarce.

The Konrad system is a direct bolt-on. No modifications. Spacers are available for .5-3" in 1/2" increments.

Kurt

[Biggus]

Here's a shot of a BW fitted with the TRS tailstock. The TRS tail is also a smaller diameter (where it slips into the gimbal) over the SSM tail. The other trans is fitted with the SSM tail, notice the differences in length.

...sorry to derail this prop slip thread, just wanted to clarify the info.

Kurt

[Lee]

Lee, i know.....i was talking about handling ,not top speed racing.

ITS A PLEASURE BOAT !!!!!!!!

U know as well as i do that the race version is stripped to almost nothing and dialed in absolute 100% with some tricks here and there !!!!

U can't compare Apples to Oranges .

Scott,
Handling is exactly what I was talking about, Fact is that old school 30' Velocity went 100mph, it does not matter what power it took to get to that speed, the hull did it.

The Konrads are plug and play.

[Chris]

The problem with the SSM drives, beyond dwindling parts availability, is finding someone that knows how to work on them. It's an art form. And not everyone has the tools. You can get a TRS fixed anywhere.

Next you have prop selection. Small-shaft props are getting more scarce. And the difference in price- a $400 TRS prop vs a $2000 #3 prop.

As far as the Velocity goes, if you know how to drive it you can run 100 mph all day in it. But no vee of that length is all that safe at 100. They don't really get all that twitchy until over 110 or so. I had mine to 113. Too fast. I think I was out of skeg.

[Biggus]

Sorry DD, but I've got a thing for wrong information. If one was to convert to a SSM package, the motor must be moved rearward as the SSM tailshaft is shorter. If one was to swap out the tailshafts and leave the motors in the existing TRS location, the drive input shaft would have no engagement into the trans. The SSM input shaft is several inches shorter than the TRS.

No pissing match, just factual information.

Kurt

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

The thickness of the inner plate has nothing to do with it.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

I am not going to argue with you. If you did it great.

Getting it to work and doing it RIGHT are two different things to me.

[speedfreak2030]

Great deal of info, all good. I have just come across a set of JT20 turbines 2100hp each and a set of ASD10's that I am thinking of putting in the 30' Velocity. The set up should make for a interested ride.

[MILD THUNDER]

Great deal of info, all good. I have just come across a set of JT20 turbines 2100hp each and a set of ASD10's that I am thinking of putting in the 30' Velocity. The set up should make for a interested ride.

WTF