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    Trs rebuilding 101
    #1
    Registered stinger's Avatar
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    Can anyone tell me if there is any info available on repair/refresh TRS drives for the do it yourselfer ? Books , Videos . Need to know whats been learned over the years to help them last other than the ovious. Have ability to understand backlash, gear pattern match, crush collers, indicaters stuff like in a 9'' FORD rear .Running less than 600 hp twins . I know Konrads are the answer but wont be in the buget this season! Also who to trust to do the work if I have to send it out and around what price? I have 4 drives 3 need gone thru and set up . 1 needs lower gears as well, case is OK then they need powdercoated or painted. Thanks Dan
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    PROUD stecz20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinger View Post
    Can anyone tell me if there is any info available on repair/refresh TRS drives for the do it yourselfer ? Books , Videos . Need to know whats been learned over the years to help them last other than the ovious. Have ability to understand backlash, gear pattern match, crush collers, indicaters stuff like in a 9'' FORD rear .Running less than 600 hp twins . I know Konrads are the answer but wont be in the buget this season! Also who to trust to do the work if I have to send it out and around what price? I have 4 drives 3 need gone thru and set up . 1 needs lower gears as well, case is OK then they need powdercoated or painted. Thanks Dan


    i have the trs merc manual, i could copy it and send it to you... its awsome to have.. i got it from a oso member... let me know...
    Hi, Im Dave.. Welcome, glad to have ya.....
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    Registered BDiggity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stecz20 View Post
    i have the trs merc manual, i could copy it and send it to you... its awsome to have.. i got it from a oso member... let me know...
    i'll take one. i think one of my drives is taking on water & was going to try & go thru them in the spring.
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    #4
    You have to have the Merc tools to do the job yourself.

    The TRS needs good clearances and regular oil changes.

    Thjey don't like more than about 550 to 600 HP.

    I would have every part in the drive cryo-treated and the gears isotropically micropolished. Shafts too. You'll get more life and more power handling capacity as a result.
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    #5
    PROUD stecz20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDiggity View Post
    i'll take one. i think one of my drives is taking on water & was going to try & go thru them in the spring.
    ill work on it this week...

    pm me your name and address....
    Hi, Im Dave.. Welcome, glad to have ya.....
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    #6
    Registered insanity's Avatar
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    I have a manual I downloaded from a merc backdoor or something, I can't remember. Its on my other laptop, I'll find it tomorrow and see what version it is. I think it was a couple hundred megs but I could probably burn it to a cd or something.
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    #7
    Charter Member J-Bonz's Avatar
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    Yup, its a pdf file i bet
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    #8
    Registered BDiggity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stecz20 View Post
    ill work on it this week...

    pm me your name and address....

    thx, but j-bonz is going to send me the pdf.
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    #9
    PROUD stecz20's Avatar
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    you got it....
    Hi, Im Dave.. Welcome, glad to have ya.....
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    #10
    Registered insanity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Bonz View Post
    Yup, its a pdf file i bet
    That's right
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    #11
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    You have to have the Merc tools to do the job yourself.

    The TRS needs good clearances and regular oil changes.

    Thjey don't like more than about 550 to 600 HP.

    I would have every part in the drive cryo-treated and the gears isotropically micropolished. Shafts too. You'll get more life and more power handling capacity as a result.
    There comes a point when the housings are the limiting factor. In the lower follow the early methods to shim and don't use the crush rings. Using cleaver type props will also help them live IMO.
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    #12
    Good point on props. Stick to 3 blades. 4's give too much bite and dramatically increase failures.
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    #13
    Registered BDiggity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    Good point on props. Stick to 3 blades. 4's give too much bite and dramatically increase failures.
    i have 26p 4b bravos, my rpm hits only 4200. i was going to look for some 22 or 23p, do you think i should also go to 3b?

    whats the rpm diff between a 4b & 3b given same pitch?
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    #14
    Founding Member / Competitor MOBILEMERCMAN's Avatar
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    They should be the same rpm's if same brand.
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    #15
    Founding Member Tony's Avatar
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    #16
    BDigginIt - Brian I have some 22's and 23's you can try. I was up to running 25's with the OddCouple and will have both "good" motors next year so will probably have a brand new set of labbed 25's as well... Also myself and Big Green are going to rebuild several TRS drives and trannys this winter for our boats as well as atleast one set of each for spares...
    And BTW I agree with the no 4 blades on TRS' with good motors. I twisted a prop shaft smooth off at the seal playing too hard with my old junk... Lost half a matching set of nice ss props and some other accessories on that little fubar.
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    #17
    Registered BDiggity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tempest38 View Post
    BDigginIt - Brian I have some 22's and 23's you can try. I was up to running 25's with the OddCouple and will have both "good" motors next year so will probably have a brand new set of labbed 25's as well... Also myself and Big Green are going to rebuild several TRS drives and trannys this winter for our boats as well as atleast one set of each for spares...
    And BTW I agree with the no 4 blades on TRS' with good motors. I twisted a prop shaft smooth off at the seal playing too hard with my old junk... Lost half a matching set of nice ss props and some other accessories on that little fubar.

    Hey Don
    i just downloaded that trs manual & oh boy, i dont even know were to start w/ my drives. lol. i may have to take mine off & bring them down to wichi & have like a home depot how to class w/ u guys.

    i may need to borrow a pair of the props to see what works best then. too much to do & not enough time or money.
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    #18
    Charter Member J-Bonz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    Thanks bro, better than emailing it
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    #19
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    The upper units on the TRS drive are very beefy with large gears. You can easily pull the top and back caps to check the gears for pitting and wear. If they look good and the fluid was clean I would concentrate on the lowers, because the lowers are the weak link with TRS.

    Use the best lower housings you have, with the most/thickest material around the bullitt. Make sure the lower gears you use have no pitting(new would be best). All the bearings are available from local bearing distributors except for one vert shaft roller bearing(merc only). Shims are also available from merc. It helps to have a parts catalog in addition to the manual.

    Two important things to know about with the TRS lower: 1) The lower verticle shaft roller bearings are preloaded with shims that are located in the upper housing, and setting that preload properly is critical to survival. 2) The right rotation drive puts the lower drive gear(prop shaft gear) on the back side of the pinion gear, making the rt drive the weaker of the two (since the gear is not supported as well, being in the thinner part of the bullitt). Hard shimming the right lower instead of using the crush ring helps eliminate bullitt flexing, adding to gear life. All the stock parts in a TRS are bigger in comparison to the same related parts in a Bravo, so in good condition with proper setup, they can handle 650/700hp in a twin engine application. With 600hp, I would expect the lower gears to last over 200hrs(400+ on the upper gears).

    I ran TRS's with 550/600hp on a 311 Formula for over 500hrs(hard), and the only issues I had were wearing out the lower gears, and cracking a freshly rebuilt lower housing at the bearing carrier because the housing was thin(wore out) around the rear of the bullitt. A stock 1" TRS prop shaft is beefier then a 1" Bravo shaft(non XR), so prop shaft failure hopefully wont be an issue.

    Good luck, LE
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    #20
    The 4 blade will typically slip less so you may see a little less RPM, the equivalent of a tad more pitch. The real issue with the 4-blade is if you get a bit stick-happy on holeshots, the 3 blade won't bite as hard. Also, if you make throttle mistakes on re-entry, the 3-blad again gives you a bit more cushion as it's not hooking up so solidly.
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