Transom replacement question?

[rchevelle71]

OK,

So I am almost ready to dive into replacing the Transom on the Pantera.

I can dig up old threads about the actual transom replacement part, but first I need to get to the wood.

This boat has a splashwell(outboard) which it will no longer have once I am done, but thats another thread. I will need to cut the deck off to access the transom. I dont want to remove the whole deck, so i was thinking of removing it partially since I will need to modify the back section to remove the splashwell anyway.

What I want to do is cut the deck right around the vent area, and down into the area where the hatch is, remove it for the work, then splice it back in later. The reason for doing it here is the fact that there will be less visible glasswork since there is not much area around the vents anyway, and the inside part will only be visible when the hatch is open(even though I plan on having it damn near flawless before gel and paint), just less work to get it there. Not sure if this makes sense, but I was thinking of doing this at an angle(as shown in the attached pic), not sure it would make a difference, but just thought the splice may be stronger this way.

Am I totally off base? Has this been done? Is it a feasable thing to do, or would the experts cringe??

[glassdave]

yea thats totally feasible, since you have to do a bunch glasswork back there anyway. When working with fiberglass the possibilities are endless its pretty much up to your imagination and level of commitment. So i assume your converting to an I/O?

[rchevelle71]

yea thats totally feasible, since you have to do a bunch glasswork back there anyway. When working with fiberglass the possibilities are endless its pretty much up to your imagination and level of commitment. So i assume your converting to an I/O?

Thanks Dave, just wanted to make sure it was OK before I cut it, you can tell me how to fix it later

NOT converting to an I/O, but replacing a damp transom, and closing off the splashwell since it will no longer be needed, may be going with a bracket with swim platform instead of just the jackplate. I will be raising the transom 5", capping the splashwell, adding knees to the transom, and we'll see how the stringers are once I get in there. I need to remove the motor, cut off the 1/4" Aluminum plate that is covering the entire transom(even welded and wrapped up into the splashwell), the boat was originally a twin outboard, then I will measure out where to cut, and go for it. Probably be a few weekends still before I even get to the cutting. What are your thoughts on the angle cut vs. straight, does this make more sense, or do I just hang around with too many engineers?

Rick

[glassdave]

Thanks Dave, just wanted to make sure it was OK before I cut it, you can tell me how to fix it later

LOL


yes thats fine to cut at an angle like that. Not sure you gain any advantage in strength but i understand the thought process. Also for lumber in the transom you might want to go with three layers of half inch rather then the usual two layers of three quarter.

[rchevelle71]

LOL


yes thats fine to cut at an angle like that. Not sure you gain any advantage in strength but i understand the thought process. Also for lumber in the transom you might want to go with three layers of half inch rather then the usual two layers of three quarter.

I will be going 3 layers 1/2, just found a supplier of marine plywood local yesterday(I am sure there are a bunch in south fl though), gotta give a call when I get closer to putting it back in for pricing.

[jeffswav]

I am not a glass expert, but I play one on TV. I am working on mine right now, I am sure you have seen the post. Be sure the place you cut has plenty of surface area to make the boat as strong at it was before. I know mine is really thick on the area around the vents. Almost like that area takes more stress than a solid piece. Does that make sence?

[rchevelle71]

I am not a glass expert, but I play one on TV. I am working on mine right now, I am sure you have seen the post. Be sure the place you cut has plenty of surface area to make the boat as strong at it was before. I know mine is really thick on the area around the vents. Almost like that area takes more stress than a solid piece. Does that make sence?

Sure, that makes sense, one other reson for doing it in this area is that I will have access to it thru the venthole, and also easy access to the backside under the hatch area without removing any interior. Since this area is not cosmetic in any way on the inside, i can make it as thick as I want.

[Offshore Ginger]

Rick is there any chance of posting some pics of the motorwell and adding the knees is a great idea .

[rchevelle71]

Rick is there any chance of posting some pics of the motorwell and adding the knees is a great idea .

This is the closest thing I have here on the work comp. I can get more, whats your idea?

[insanity]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

[J-Bonz]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

Not a bad idea...

[jeffswav]

OG and Dave will give you good advice. If you go by what they tell you that should keep you on track. I would take some very detailed pictures. I was thinking that area around the vents might not be good place to cut because of less surface area when you put it back together. It may make a weak spot. However I am no expert it might be fine to cut it there.

[rchevelle71]

Something to consider would be to 'fill' the motorwell and shape/smooth things prior to cutting everything out/off. Then you can pull a mold from it, and when it comes time to put everything back together, pop a part from your mold you created and you would be good to go, in theory your new part would fill in everything you cut out.

Are you going to move the rear seat back after you fill in the motorwell?

Good idea,

I have never done a mold, and not sure that this needs one. Basically it will be the same structure, just with the motorwell capped off 5" up rom where it is now on top of the new transom.

I will eventually move the back seat back in another episode, but that will require some restructuring. Most important to me is to get the new transom in, re gelcoat the repair/modified areas, and paint to match. I want to be back on the water by summer, so the opening up of the cockpit will be put off a year or so, until I have the coin to redo the entire interior..

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

My suggestion would be to cut the vertical surfaces on the inside. I would try not to mess up the areas of the deck from the rail up including the top horizontal section. If you can make your joint/ blend repair in the inside vertical it can potentially be covered by an upholstered panel. It can then retain the original lines and profile as it does know.

[rchevelle71]

My suggestion would be to cut the vertical surfaces on the inside. I would try not to mess up the areas of the deck from the rail up including the top horizontal section. If you can make your joint/ blend repair in the inside vertical it can potentially be covered by an upholstered panel. It can then retain the original lines and profile as it does know.

Jim,

I am trying to picture this, but I still need to get the deck cap off at some point in the rear section, I dont believe I will be able to get the new transom boards in, in one piece, unless I get the top piece out of there? Also, remember these boats are very tight to work in, only 6'7" wide, I think I can do a more thorough job of getting the transom in correctly if I can access it from all sides. I agree covering it with upholstery would be an easier way out, and the cosmetics on the exterior may not be easy, but at least I can do the external cosmetic portion of it standing upright with beer in hand, not hanging upside down in the bilge trying to glass things together?

Rick

[Dude! Sweet!]

Man, you and Tim have been reading my mind...

[Ratickle]

And if you don't want to do all that yourself, convince Artie to do it for a good price.....

Thanks for all your assistance Artie. Believe me when I say what you and Dave do is very appreciated by all....

[Offshore Ginger]

And if you don't want to do all that yourself, convince Artie to do it for a good price.....

Thanks for all your assistance Artie. Believe me when I say what you and Dave do is very appreciated by all....

Paul thank you ever so much .

[Dude! Sweet!]

Gotta be better than nothing right? I man unless you end up breaking the stringer due to the pushing/pulling stress or the hole. I've seen a few O/B boats with an aluminum plate attached to the outside of the transom. How common is that? Is it generally just a band-aid for having a bum transom?

[Offshore Ginger]

Gotta be better than nothing right? I man unless you end up breaking the stringer due to the pushing/pulling stress or the hole. I've seen a few O/B boats with an aluminum plate attached to the outside of the transom. How common is that? Is it generally just a band-aid for having a bum transom?

Good question and Rick does that mean everything is still on hold with the exception of the aluminum ?