The LEVERAGE Oxidation Thread

[MarineClean]

This thread is dedicated to Oxidation on your boat.

I will also include the Buffing & Wetsanding 101 threads in this section.

Donnie

[MarineClean]

We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.

I will give some examples of what you need to do the Wetsanding job.

You need 2000, 1500, 1000 and maybe 800 (experienced) if it is that bad.
You need a sanding block/pad
You need Leverage Oxidation Remover & Polish
You need a small bucket for water
You need a mild wash solution
You need some clean Terry cloth towels
You need this buffer or one similar with a wool pad
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90820

I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.

Make sure the surface is clean. Start with the wet 1500 grit followed by the 2000 grit on the block/pad dipped in soapy dish water. You don't need to apply allot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 15-20 strokes for each grit (depending on how bad the fade is) keeping the paper wet (you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover & a Wool Pad (I usually like 2600-3000RPM). Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.

I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500 followed by the 2000. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed, but always finish with 2000 grit. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.

This is a quick recap, so please feel free to add any info that you've experienced.

Donnie

[MarineClean]

If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90820

Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading. If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.

All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.

Donnie

[MarineClean]

Yesterday's project. Here's some before and during. We started getting some blowing rain, so I'll get the finals tomorrow.

[MarineClean]

During

[MarineClean]

Some After

[MarineClean]

After 2

No Wetsanding just Buffing.

[Sunsation96]

Looks great, good work, I might want to try some in the spring. Thanks for the information and the photos

[MarineClean]

Thanks for the reply!

For those of you that haven't used my OR.

When I first started I made 2 formulas. 1 Grey & 1 Tan....
Grey..mildly agressive
Tan..more agressive

We've done allot of testing over the years and I've also sent out allot of samples for others to review. As of early 2008 I've decided to only manufacture my Tan formula. It works on very mild to severe with excellent results, so my grey is no longer needed. Just a little FYI....

Also, the tan will remove Dock Scuffs, Light Scratches, Black Streaks and up to 1000 Grit sand marks as well as Oxidation.

I also use it to clean water spots off of glass windows. Apply it directly to the window and use a damp, non scratch pad. It a little messy, but the results are outstanding. Be sure to follow up with a coat of my Polish too. It works better than RainX on windows and isen glass!

Donnie

[Therapy Session]

I just purchased the polish, OR, Metel serum, vinyl cleaner and conditioner. I have some transom soot that I am having trouble getting off. Can you give me advice on your products for this. I assume I need to start with the oxidation remover. Do you have to have a buffer for this or do you recommed doing it by hand. I have always used frenzy products, but I look forward to trying your products. The frenzy wax has worked great for me, but it doesn't seem to last long.

Here are some pictures of the transom. The problem is mainly up under the swim platform.
Thank you in advance for any input. I just want to do it correct the first time.

[MarineClean]

Hey Therapy,

No problem at all. I do the transoms by hand, so I can get into every nook & cranny. Put the OR directly on your towel and rub away then come back and wipe it off with a dry towel. When I rub it down I usually wait only 3-5 minutes before I wipe it off because I don't want the OR to completely dry. (easier to wipe off when the OR is still wet)

Follow up with Polish and you're done.

You can also clean your rubrail with the OR as well.

Thanks for the purchase and please let me know if you need anything!

Donnie

[Therapy Session]

Thank you for the info. Boat is gone getting a new stereo upgrade. When I get it back I will give this a try.

[MarineClean]

New label with more detailed directions!

[old377guy]

thanks for all the effort that you put into this tutorial MarineClean. I hope to refer back to it in the future. One more reason to love this site - Jeff

[Shortcake]

During

That's me!!!!

That boat was a fun project for sure. At the time there was not a rail on the starboard side to stand and work on. So we ( Donnie & I ) had to lay a few boards down... running from the dock to the boat lift. We had to move them down little bit by little bit. It was cold, a little windy, and rainy it was not the easiest boat I've had to buff down. See everyone in Miami!

[MarineClean]

New, upgraded buffer link.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66615

10 AMP
up to 3500

[jeffswav]

I just purchased the polish, OR, Metel serum, vinyl cleaner and conditioner. I have some transom soot that I am having trouble getting off. Can you give me advice on your products for this. I assume I need to start with the oxidation remover. Do you have to have a buffer for this or do you recommed doing it by hand. I have always used frenzy products, but I look forward to trying your products. The frenzy wax has worked great for me, but it doesn't seem to last long.

Here are some pictures of the transom. The problem is mainly up under the swim platform.
Thank you in advance for any input. I just want to do it correct the first time.

Off topic: I noticed you were from Herrin, IL. Do you boat at Kinkaid, I believe I have seen your boat there. I am from up north, I boat there a couple of times a year.

[carter38]

I have always had good luck with Donnies products and customer service is great! Thanks keep up the great products.