I just finished seating new rings on mineral oil (Gibbs Break in oil) and am about to go to full synthetic.
I was told by my Cylinder head specialist that he just heard that if you don't completely remove all the mineral oil, the cylinder walls will "glaze" and you will loose your ring seat. This was from a Gibbs tech.
He mentioned Amsoil recomends the same but for a different reason (He thought it reacted with the synthetic, gumming up passages).
I have never heard this before. Since I did not seat the rings on the dyno this time, I would have to completely R&R the motors to get all the mineral oil out.
Sounds a bit out there for me, any other opinions out there?
Thread: Mineral to Synthetic
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10-20-2009 03:42 PM32' Fever (Off to Syracuse) and 36"Gladiator; FORD powered
Cause somebody has to!
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10-20-2009 03:51 PM
Considereing that just about every syn maker out there claims "compatability with mineral oil", it seems a little out there to me claiming "reactions" between them doesn't it?
PS, I run the Brad Penn Racing semi syn. Got both bases covered
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10-20-2009 06:48 PMBy federal law, synthetics and mineral oils must mix! i.e., if you were in the middle of nowhere, and could only find one or the other, it has to mix, so you wouldn't be stranded. Go right ahead and change the oil to a synthetic, its not going to glaze the walls, nor, lose the seating.
P.S., Airpacker, do you know what semi synthetic means? Or how much synthetic properties that oil has, or is required to have? I'll answer that for you, less than 1% is required. A semi synthetic or synthetic blend oil, can be basically the same thing as adding one creamer to your coffee in the morning. Unless an oil says 100% SYNTHETIC, and not "full synthetic" like Mobil 1, its not 100%. So, in other words, semi synthetics and blends are just a marketing ploy to make you spend more money, for not really any better of a product than the petroleum products.Last edited by 07DominatorSS; 10-20-2009 at 07:05 PM.
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10-20-2009 10:01 PM
My take is simple. This oil
http://www.bradpennracing.com/default.asp
was recommended by several top engine builders from here and the USA. If its good enough for them, its good enough for me.
Oh, its also 1/2 the price of mobil1 and considering I change it ( 12 quarts ) every 10 hrs, thats a good thing.
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10-20-2009 11:13 PMWell, I guess I prefer to use the best products I can find, considering I have about 40k worth of motors and drives! To each their own, but "good enough", is exactly what it says, just good enough. Personally, if Mobil 1 or AMSOIL was 5 times the cost, it would be worth it still. But, hey, once again, to each their own.
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10-21-2009 07:50 AM
Penn racing oil is heavily loaded with zinc and phospherous. It is used by many successful race teams on land and water. My engine builder ( the best and most successful in Canada ) recommends it. Crocket recommends it. Most major cam manufacturers recommend it. Does that mean its just good enough or do you think maybe these people have a clue?
PS, I run it in a 900 hp, 6000rpm blower motor. Not exactly a cheap piece I would trust to your average off the shelf oil.
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10-21-2009 07:55 AM
My cost on the BP racing 20w50 is around 6 bucks a quart or 72 an oil change. My cost on Mobil one is 37 bucks a 4 litre jug ( thats about 4.5 quarts) or 98 bucks an oil change.
I order it by case lot from an importer.
Wally mart here stopped carrying the 15w50 Mobil one a couple years back.