Carrera SS7M Newbie Question

[paston1]

We finally got the SS7M on the water. It ran great in a straight line, But everytime we went to turn it felt like it was going over. I know it is a very narrow beam, but it felt really awkward. What am I doing wrong?

[Big Time]

Is it a new boat to you? Each boat is going to have different handling characteristics. It took some time getting used to my Fountain especially going from a straight bottom boat to a stepped hull and it felt strange at first, but take it slow and you begin to feel out some of the handling characteristics (and limitations) of your boat.

Having said that....

How fast were you going and how hard were you turning? Also, do you have tabs and were you using them? How was the boat trimmed when you were turning? These things can all affect the handling characteristics of a boat, especially when turning....

[Ratickle]

What are you used to driving?

Trim, prop lift, tab placement could all cause those issues, even on a well set-up boat.

[Chris]

If you're going over 40 mph, you need to have some prior experience with an experienced boater. Do you know someone that can ride along with you and evaluate what's going on? Dead is a permanent condition.

[paston1]

I appreciate all the input. I will be the first to admit I know very little about these Offshore boats and really would like to find a mentor to teach me. I have some experience boating. It is equipped with Bennets but for some reason the trim indicators on the Bennets quit working so we just ran them to the up position (dont know if that was the right thing or not). Only experienced the issue on plane. from 25 on up. It is probaly just a total lack of experience. So if someone in the Cinci area would like to take me under their wing I am a very eager student.

[phragle]

first , get everything working right. you cant get any benchmarks untill your on a level playing field.

[Chris]

Tabs are something you can use by feel. Drive trim is a different story. First thing, make sure your indicator reads true. Get the hull bottom level then adjust the drive to where it's level. Propshaft is the best spot. Then either mark where level is on your indicator or adjust your indicator to the zero mark. Also, make sure nothing is worn or loose. I'm assuming it has cable steering. If the helm is worn and has play, you're never going to get rid of the gremlins until that's remedied. Same with gimbal bearings, etc. Pay close attention to all the steering hardware as without it you're going to find yourself in a big problem. Also, string a line across the bottom lengthwise. The bottom should have a very gentle downward curve. If it has anything upward (hook) you've found your handling problem.

Now, take the boat out to a SMOOTH piece of water early on a weekday when no one is there. Get a feel of what the boat does without external aggravations, like waves, wakes, etc. Try trimming in different spots at different speeds and get a feel for the boat. Once you're certain there are no problems and you feel absolutely in control, now's the time to venture out to more challenging water.

Also, I wouldn't take this thing any further than you're willing to row it back until you're confident in what's going on with it mechanically.

Lastly, make DAMN CERTAIN that the boat has an operating lanyard/killswitch system and get a life jacket capable of staying on you at the maximum speed the boat travels. Like I said before, dead is permanent.

Mor einfomation about the boat would help. Power, drive, especially prop. The wrong prop can be a nightmare.

[Ratickle]

Where are you at and where are you boating next? Maybe one of the other guys will be close. First thing sounds like all the way trimed in. But that is just speculation.

[DAREDEVIL]

I appreciate all the input. I will be the first to admit I know very little about these Offshore boats and really would like to find a mentor to teach me. I have some experience boating. It is equipped with Bennets but for some reason the trim indicators on the Bennets quit working so we just ran them to the up position (dont know if that was the right thing or not). Only experienced the issue on plane. from 25 on up. It is probaly just a total lack of experience. So if someone in the Cinci area would like to take me under their wing I am a very eager student.

Jbonz is in ohio,,he can show u.
Or look me up in FL ,,LOL,, i give u some lessons on my boat .

[stillsmoking]

hey Paston shoot me an email if you ever put your boat in the river on a sunday around New Richmond and I might be able to help you out. Do you still have my email from the Sunsation website? Also there is another guy here in Batavia with a Carerra so you might be able to compare notes.

[Ratickle]

Welcome Tim and Matt.

What kind of trim indicator do you have for your drive? Make sure you know what it reads all the way in, all the way out, and at nuetral. They do not all read the same, so test it on the trailer and make notes.

[paston1]

I just have a lot of work to do. Power is 502 MAG MPI, Trans Borg Warner, Out drive is TRS, Prop is 23 pitch stainless merc. I will try all these things out. Keep the suggestions coming. Like I said I am an eager student

[Ratickle]

I believe from everything I've heard the Carrera is a well designed boat and the Scorpion 24 is a splash of the Carrera. Several used to race in the old days.

I'm still leaning toward drive trim. Make sure you check your trim locator to see if it is at 0 in the Nuetral position and moves as it should to full up, (note), full in (note). If not, adjust your indicator until it is accurate. Then test from there for least amount of bow down possible for take off, come to nuetral as soon as on plane, and then trim up slowly until blowout occurs, then down a little.

Or something close to that.

[paston1]

Well I guess I get to buy more parts. The old girl doesnt have a drive trim indicator, Doesnt even have a place on the dash for one. So who makes a good one and how do you install it.

[Ratickle]

You most likely will be driving it before installing an indicator then. So, here's how I would do it.

On the trailer, trim all the way in and listen for the loaded whine so you recognize the sound. That is your starting point always. Then, touch the trim up blipping it maybe 1/2 second, or 1 second. Walk behind the boat and view, mental or written note. Repeat until you know almost exactly where nuetral is. How many blips.

When you run the first time, I would start out from your idle with the trim guessed at nuetral, 4 or 5 seconds of trim from all in or whatever you found out, and see what happens. If it gets up on plane fine, then find your comfy cruise speed, settle in, and trim up/out by blipping until the prop blows out and you hear the cavitation. At that point, trim back down one blip/second should hook back up.

Then try a slow corner. Tighter corner, etc. until you feel comfy. If it blows out in the tighter corner, trim in another blip and try again. Etc, etc.


If it doesn't get up on plane fine, try the same thing with it trimmed in/under a couple of blips. Repeat until you know where it comes on plane best. But never do a corner with the drive trimmed way in. It will force the bow down and the boat will want to tip to one side or the other of the Vee....

Always learn your boats characteristics with the drive around nuetral, or plus or minus just a little.

I'm still leaning towards the trimmed in too far theory.


Other's ???????

[DAREDEVIL]

Well I guess I get to buy more parts. The old girl doesnt have a drive trim indicator, Doesnt even have a place on the dash for one. So who makes a good one and how do you install it.

U can find a used one ,,or Gaffrig !! u need a 3 line ,2 tabs (for the future) and 1 drive, 3 morse cable's and a drive actuator( bravo does not work) your best bet is bluewater performance. Or also a used one.

Until that be safe and go by feel, slow in the turn untill u have some seat time and know where your trimm is, u NEVER want to trimm all the way in or out in a turn ,just enough to carry the nose so it will not hook or bowsteer.
The rough dimension of a mech. indicator is 4 X 5.1/2 inch,find a spot for it ( the best is above the trimmswitches) and that should be above the throttle with in reach of the throttle hand at all times.

Have fun.

[paston1]

I cant believe the response I am getting. Thank you all so much. I want to do this the right way. Would the drive also cause it to porpoise? it doesnt do it terrible but is very noticable.

[phragle]

Paston, without knowing how much you have into the boat, or how much you want to put in it, dont get $$ shocked when looking at the mechanical indicators suggested. it really depends on how you will use it. it is possible if the boat has a bravo to use te oem style electrical drive indicators, they are 2 hockey pucks that go on the side of the gimble, you may allready have them on there. then they will wire into a standard trim guage on the dash. one of the pucks works the guage, one works the trim limits. if you have the pucks and they are wired, you just need to get a guage to match the ones you already have.

[Ratickle]

He said it's a TRS Rob. I'd make it a winter project and do it right. There should be some decent used ones here where they've been replaced with the new stuff.

Yes, drive trim and tab trim will cause the boat to porpoise.

If the drive was tucked way in though, it would be very hard for the boat to porpoise at all. Typically that's trimmed out too far and the drive is trying to carry the bow, but the boat is not going fast enough to have enough air under it to accomplish that (kind of).

[phragle]

He said it's a TRS Rob.

my bad