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OK--blew my brand new 502 / 502 engine w/ a bad crankshaft bearing (19HRS)......Block and crank are back from the machine shop and she is ready to re-build---I have the ZZ 502 / 502 camshaft---------110 LSA--234 / 234 duration---.527 / .544 lift-----I also have dry exhaust , custom made by Stainless Marine....Should I now go to a hotter Cam now that she is apart and I have dry exhaust ???? More HP ???? OR am I wasting my time ????
Thanks---------Mike--Tampa Bay!!!
What are you going to use for muffling with dry exhaust?
And yes, I would change cams now why it's apart. There are better cams out there for what rpm's and torque range you want in a boat vs a car.
Ratickle---nothing to muff the exhausts--I guess they are really called semi-dry----the water mixes with the main exhaust at about a inch from the end/outside---they were not really that much louder OR I'm getting deaf-hahaha--I also learned today that the GM gen5 and Gen 6 BBC crate motors came with 2 11PSI by pass valves, in the block----if you add a remote oil cooler ( I DID) and a remote oil filter lines and system ( I did) it causes more resistance and the bypass valve will stop oil from going in the oil cooler and filter---hence super hot unfiltered oil---- engine failure---anyone that has this setup and system need to change them to 30PSI valves!!!!
Good thing to know and put out there for others. If you want to start a thread with the technical aspects and the warning I can sticky it in the engine section so it will stay at the top for others to see.
I guess if I were you, I'd call John out at Teague and see what cam they would recommend. You don't need a cam that gives you peak horsepower any higher than about 5800, or you'll be hard on drives. Plus the torque curve you will want to be low for the marine application. So, unless you have a favorite marine engine guy down there, Teague is who I'd get ahold of.
Use a cam with 112 or 114 LSA to help prevent reversion, and install an oil temp. gauge if possible