OIL temps

What are you guys running in the cold Lake?

I put in a Canton oil stat thats supposed to open at 215*

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v9/p822015787-5.jpg


I feel the lines and no oil seems to be running thru the cooler yet my temps never get above 175* and thats only about 20* hotter than port motor which has no oil stat.
The Lake is still pretty cold, the motors just can`t build heat?


Second question dumb question Mefi2 doesn`t take into consideration oil temps to determine AFR does it? The colder motor at WOT is richer than the motor with the oil stat .

11.3 vs. 13.5 AFR

Probably due to the cold lake water, your block is cooling the oil so much right now, there isnt much of a need for the external cooler. I wouldnt worry much about only 175* of oil temp. While i like the idea of running oil at 180-190 cruising, and 200-215 wot, I ran my oil cold (like 130-160*) for years. Bearings looked like new when we tore them down.

The MEFI system uses water temp I believe to go into closed loop mode. I dont like 13.5 AFR, nor do I like the 11.3 afr on your engines. You should probably be around 12-12.5.

As for the oil temp, where is your temp sender located? Is it before the cooler, after the cooler, or in the pan???

Actually, now that i think about it, I am not sure the stock merc ecu even has a closed loop mode. I believe there is a way to add that, custom i think. Maybe Todd or Obnoxus would know. Im a carb guy.

As for the AFR, 11.3 is pretty fat for a n/a efi engine. Something isn't right. Maybe too much fuel psi? Injector stuck open?

Well, the lakes warming up some. Supposed to be at 60 degrees over here yesterday, up from 47 a week ago. But, the bad news, the low tonight is supposed to be around 44 degrees.:eek:

Since there is two threads on temps, and Lake Michigan is colder than heck still, I've been doing some reading to see what others think. Pretty much the consensus is the engine needs to see at least 180 degrees as an operating temperature. Even the results stated on a 160 degree thermostat say they start to open aat 160 and are fully open at 180. Some of what I've read;

One comment.....

Many HP engines now have thermostatic controlled oil coolers and close cooling. When you run the engine oil cold, condensation tends to collect in the valve covers. If the engine oil never nears 212 the moisture doesn't get heated out of the oil. It effects the mixture, engine clearances, and HP. Just another reason not to take off the circ pump and push water straight through. No water temp, no oil temp, no good.

And another.....

A lot of opinions on this but 180-200 seems to be the consensus....marine engines run cooler water temps (than autos) but because they are under such a constant moderate to heavy load, the combustion temps are high enough to help ward off sludge buildup and they run under ideal pure air conditions, there is hardly any dirt on the water....this is why a by pass to the pump is so important for faster warm ups and consistent temps.

And another interesting tidbit I've read several places, but I do not know if it's true or not....

Do not forget that if Raw Water cooled, and IF running in Salt Water, you will have "Salt Crystallization" issues to consider as for engine operating temperature!
Salt crystallizes at/near 145* or so...... so if RWC, and in S/W, the stat selection should be offering engine temperature of around 145*.... and no higher!

If River/Lake....., or equipped with a Closed Cooling system, you will want operating temeratures closer to 160*/170* or so.

I'll also add this to the other thread. But, almost everything I've read, says that if the thermostat and temp gauge are working properly, and the engine is plumbed properly (several articles also mention the check valves used in some Merc IO's) the engine will come up to the thermostat temperature even if you're running in 33* water in Alaska......